jose

Hi I read all thread and I though that all resistors was necesary. I use this GRLV with my Dynalo SS. I didn´t any adjust (I matched all resistors, leds and I adjusted trimpots on 50K before plug in). With the Dynalo SS connected to this, I can measure; -19,993 volt and +20.000 volt and between rails 40,00volt exact. With no load, same measures.... I hadn´t noises or issues. I´m using a r-core with 25Vac@1Amp x2

Oh no! please Dr. Gilmore... I just finished doing it .

My Dynalo SS lives too. My amp runs with 20Vdc rails and 255R Bias resistor and like Pars, I use Jfet (2SK170GR/2SJ74GR) instead That340 (I learned the lessond with my Dynahi). I measured 160mV at cold start and after 20 minutes my amp is stable to 0,205mVolt (around 10mA) with an offset of 0~4 mVolt. Transistors temperature is 35º and 40º. I read all thread and on speciality this answer. I´m going to change R255 for other value around R280.

Happy Birthday!!!

Bruce Dickinson: "Balls to Picasso"

I have this Amp. We used Wayne desing but doble mono configuration. I did my amp last year. I

I'm waiting for a pair of "Pars bridge's" [emoji6]

Thanks Dr. Gilmore !!

Thanks guys. I usually solder smd with a "normal" size but I never solder any with a long legs. I tried with a 60w iron (a few second), solder paste and I guess that I have good result.

Like the Dr. Gilmore

Novice question: What is the correct way to tin this type of pad? Should I fill with tin or just put a little under the component as I normally do?

No Kit is offered. A GB was made two or three years ago in DIYAudio and the PCB´s after many delays arrived earlier this year. PCB was designed to be used in this kind box.

While I wait components for my Dynalo SS and my CFP I finished my F5ha:

Now... you need a BH/GG

Guys, I´m working on my Dynalo SS and I finded this: Pad of 24.9K is on the border of track.Yes, I know that is OK and work but there is enough space to move the track and center it with the pad so for future PCB´s I guess that is better change the gerber file ¿no? I have rev 1.2 PCB´s

Pet Shop Boys "Fundamental"

Thanks Pars, I´m doing a regular Dynalo MKII. I guess that I have the last pcb´s (Rev 1.2, blue pcb with through hole resistors and SMD sand). I supposed that I could use the LTL-307 (It´s the "standard" ) but in the BOM that I found there behind pointed to the ref. 351-5001. I don´t know why. So if I can use the LTL-307ELC, better. I have a ton of these leds.

I have a doubt with the LEDs. In the BOM there is one of Vf 2v (Ref. 351-5001). it is right?

Romain Collin "Press Enter"

I follow the thread because it seems an interesting project. Would there be big differences between the Dynahi-bal and Dynafet? What characteristics should the new Mosfet have?

Yes I bought it and price is for TWO matched pairs. But.... on DIYAudio you can find reliable sellers that have Toshiba stock (GR and BL grades) at a better price.

What is the problem with LS? I bought a quad of LSk170/lsj74 on DIYAudio a couple of months ago but I still haven't compared them with Toshiba.

You need a Carbon...

thanks you guys. I have two channels working with 2SK170/2SJ74 and now I'm listening to new amp, seriously. No noises, crunches, "low noise"... I'm starting to enjoy it again. I´m very happy. Lesson learned now that I'm going to start my Dynalo Susi