luvdunhill

I find the lack of Japanese parts disturbing

I thought it was a GO8 I hate when people "misspell" things like that.

one of these? I seriously doubt it. from [url=http://www.total.ee/?id=841&type_id=&product_id=109]Total Eesti -

408A/6028

yeah, they have a very particular way of doing things, but it is excellent and well-thought out. However, get ready for some nice heavy cabinets. I might have a pair of 10" drivers up for sale soon. In my opinion, the best driver out there for a true 3-way. It the SS 25W/8565-01, I measured them and that's it, otherwise brand new. Looks like you may have other plans though... Also, I'd recommend this forum for speaker building (and more importantly, designing). Extremely knowledgeable people there, and in my opinion the best forum out there for this stuff: HTGuide Forum - Mission Possible DIY Take care!

Nate: I also like bitumen pads... not as DIY friendly perhaps, but meh... As far as I'm concerned, then North Creek manuals are the bible on enclosures, until you start stepping up to the academic articles.

PartsConnexion order shipped today. Since it was a large order in $ terms, it was upgraded to UPS. I'll have it soon. Now to annoy DigiKey some more...

The 6v6 is a pretty craptastic tube... like, 12au7 bad. I have had several pieces of gear that used them, and the best by 10000% is the Pope 6v6gt ... I don't get why people like the RCAs. If you want the RCAs, for some unknown reason, rumage through old console sets and organs.... they're pretty common there.

checkout "geek" on diyaudio, and his website/webstore and the forum he runs...

don't mess with the adagio kettle... it sucks. I'd recommend one of the Zojirushi Water Dispensers. Also, Upton Tea if you haven't found them.

Nate, one good reason to use 2 switches is when you're using a non-latching switch, there is a transformer / psu that will still be always on. It's nice to be able to completely shut off the unit.

ah, if you're interested in the Raptor, the proper search word is "craptor"

yes, so the input impedance of the device at the end of the preamp output would be in parallel with the input impedance of the electrostatic amplifier. Like I said, stupid.

Also, I'm very much leaning towards using the Toshiba parts. I have plenty on hand and it would allow this group buy to get finished up sooner, as there won't be a dependency on the other group buy. I'd like to charge $20 for the 12 2sk170BL and they will be grouped into 2 quads and 2 tightly matched pairs.

a quick update. The toroids have arrived. The cases are in powder coating right now, and they expect to ship the middle of this week. I've contacted Digikey a few times and they are in the process of expediting the order from Panasonic for the P3884-ND parts. They will contact me today or tomorrow with a new ETA. I also sent everyone information for the remaining order at PartsConnexion, but they have not announced any discounts yet. Perhaps they will after their holiday (today). Thanks! -Marc

if such a thing really exists, it's absolutely stupid and would have all sorts of impedance issues for both the power amplifier and the electrostatic amplifier.

I think the term passive preamp is too generous... preamp outputs != preamp.

preamp for ESLs maybe

speakers != headphones

I'm waiting for Ray's amp to ship first... I want to make sure I can support a good lock onto his specific oscillation frequency. It will be the first electrostatic-to-electrostatic communications network... mil-spec of course... in fact, this message is classified and will self-destruct.

maybe that cap was being used as an RF antenna? KGSS with a built in FM tuner, sweet idea!

also, more capacitance is needed on the output of the supply and the effects of this on output impedance. It's an interesting trade-off, I agree, and one I'm wrestling with for my preamp.

the SB3 as a transport can be significantly upgraded if modded to directly tap the i2s output. I had the chance to A/B these configurations and it was quite impressive.

hm... I'll probably just use one of these: http://www.mouser.com/catalog/specsheets/MS-100656.pdf and the recommended switch for that part. Then just drill the panel with a simple through hole that will accommodate the above part. Then I can attach a PCB to the back of the panel and then adjust the height of the entire assembly via standoffs until things feel right.

so, the actuator is a similar stepped shape with a hole to accept the end of the tactile switch?