cclragnarok

I must say that I trusted the seller largely because of this.

Is it really that messed up?

Uh oh.

Here is one on audiogon: AudiogoN ForSale: Denon DA-500

I think this is how it works. For the KGSS: Power supply: 350V to -350V Voltage of each stator: 300V to -300V Output voltage stator to stator: 300V - (-300V) = 600V to -300V - 300V = -600V If the KGSS was "single ended," its output voltage swing would be 300V to -300V. Since it is push-pull, we get 600V to -600V stator to stator, which gives the 1200V P-P number.

Ignorance is bliss.

No. This is more than that. According to this study, people that pay $xxxx for their cables really do enjoy their systems more because of the cable purchases. Even if the $xxxx cables are physically no different from regular cheap cables. Basically, this is saying that the "if I think it sounds better, why not?" people are actually right in a way.

X3

Once again, I wish you the best of luck for the repairs. For the 2SC3381, are you going to replace both sides so that it's symmetrical?

I thought the common complaint against the Denons is that they don't have enough mids. I see what you are saying though. The Denons do have a punchy sound that people may or may not like. Driven with the right amps, I agree that the HD650 does offer better sound overall. Unfortunately, they are not as comfortable to me, and they leak way too much for office use. I agree with everything you said here. I am using OPA627s in my M^3, and I think the synergy is pretty decent. If I remember correctly, the Maxxed Headroom Desktop also uses OPA627s.

I don't think they are that colored. Not as colored as Audio Technicas, that's for sure. I also don't think the HD650 is all that neutral (though I do like the way they sound).

You guys are so harsh. The D2000 and D5000 are certainly not the best headphones ever made, but they sound pretty nice and balanced to me. Their combination of good sound, comfort, relative lack of leakage, and not-so-ridiculous looks is very hard to beat IMO. I think they are great headphones for office rigs. My office rig: Emu 0404 USB -> SFT M^3 -> D2000

For an end-all killer setup, I'm not sure the DA220 is good enough (I haven't ABed the DA220 against more expensive DACs, so don't trust what I say). For something cheaper as a temporary solution, I would consider the CIAudio VDA-2 + VAC-1 combo. I has a different sound signature, but it's generally considered to be on a similar level of performance as the DA220. I have one, and I think it sounds pretty good. IMHO, having a built-in DAC be the temporary solution is not a good idea. If you use a cheaper external DAC, at least you would be able to sell it when you upgrade.

Really? I thought that the Lambda, Lambda Pro, and Lambda Sig all have the same headband. The 404 headband is a little different, and it didn't fit me. I was surprised to find that the Lambda Pro headband is a little wider, and actually works for my head.

Done.

I hope that the prices for 717 and 727 don't go up too much. I just put up a WTB ad on Head-Fi. Have I been here long enough to do the same here? \

Hmm.... I guess I'll try to find a SRM-717 or SRM-727 for now. Then when the new flood of Headamp KG** hits the market, maybe the price of the older units will drop a bit.

Is $1500 the price nowadays for an used stock KGSS? I'm not sure I have that much to spend at the moment. I can afford to wait a little bit because I'll be kind of busy with family stuff for the next month or so.

Duplicate post (sorry, but apparently I can't do anything right these days ).

Sorry about turning this thread into a FS thread, and thanks for the interest. It looks like the amp is going to a better place (Iceland), and more capable hands. Unfortunately, I no longer have an amp for my Omega II. I guess it is time to go find myself something like an SRM-717 or KGSS.

I was kind of half-joking because I was a bit frustrated, but I'm not going to take back my words. I guess it is going to spritzer then?

I don't have the equipment for that though. I'm not really the DIY type. \ Actually, I'd rather switch to an SS unit at this point. Anyone want a SRM-007t for cheap (say, $350)? I'll throw in 8 Toshiba 6FQ7 for $40 and a Lambda Pro for $300.

I guess so. \ The problem is the R13 resistor though. I think something happened that caused the discoloring on the circuit board, and R13, Q6, and Z1 had to be replaced. The outer shell of the new R13 resistor is now cracking and peeling off. It probably still works (considering the fact that the amp sounds fine), but it sure isn't pretty.

While I am able to get the tvr1 adjustment down to less than 5V, I am wondering whether the left channel is a little messed up somehow. I think the previous owner of the amp also reported some difficulty with the biasing of the left channel, LED D3 not lighting up, etc. I noticed that some parts (Q6 and R13) on the left channel look like they have been replaced with parts that look different from the original. R13 also looks like it has been charred/fried. Here are some pics: Here are some voltage readings (taken from the leg that is easier to access): Left channel R13: -95V Left channel Z1: 13V Left channel Z2: -198V Left channel R14: -290V Right channel R13: -232V Right channel Z1: -130V Right channel Z2: -130V Right channel R14: -230V

I'll do that when I finish burning in and biasing the tubes. By the way, how much burn in do they need before the bias settles down? There is maybe 1.5mm of space between the pin and the fuse holder now. I haven't put in any insulation yet, but I will soon. I don't have any fiberglass though. Would electrical tape work? I tried using the tubes with better-matching (according to the transconductance measurements given by the seller) sections first. I actually didn't have to adjust the section matching trimpots at all. All of them ended up within 0.1V before any adjustments. For the right channel, I also haven't adjusted the tvr1 (matching tubes to each other). The value drifts a bit, but it never goes above 1v. For the left channel, the tvr1 adjustment was actually quite off even before I swapped out the old EI tubes. I am trying to adjust tvr1, but it's really hard to get it right since the value swings wildly every time I move the trimpot even a little bit. It was even worse last night. I'd be making tiny adjustments to tvr1, and the multimeter reading would swing back and forth from ~100V to ~-100V.