mypasswordis

Great, thanks! I think that's all the info I need to start sourcing parts and begin this project. Will certainly have more questions along the way. Preliminary searching brought up something like this for the amp chassis/heatsinking the CCSes. http://www.ebay.com/itm/111110701287?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 A parts question, what circular connectors/sockets do you recommend? I think I'm going to need around 10 contacts. 400v, -400v, -430v, -15v, gnd, 580v bias, 230v bias, 6.3v heater x2, 12.6v heater, I think that's it?

I am trying to use the BATE boards I got from Birgir to make a BEA/baby Megatron, but have a couple of dumb questions first. Is it alright to use a separate transformer "stacked" onto the HV transformer to generate C- 430V? Also, any foreseeable problems with 10M90S cascode CCS on output tubes? What DC should I "float" the output tube heaters at. and what's the best place from which to derive this voltage? Finally, planning on using simple LM317 based circuit to power the input tube heaters, should I run this in current mode or voltage mode and do I bother with a soft start? TIA.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think Sigma Pros came with Lambda style earpads. Also, fuck Wiktor.

DIY gets you the most bang for buck

I know it does not make a difference if it's positive or negative, but normal bias for Stax is 200-230VDC. It could be that they decided to run the Stax OEM drivers at 300, but it's more interesting to think that they had different drivers made. What do you think of the Gamma Pros vs. any of the Lambdas?

Wow, all kinds of crazy designs back in the day... and bias at -300V potentially means finally a headphone that does not use a modified Stax driver (that isn't Koss/Beyer/Sennheiser/Sony)? Would be very interesting if that were the case. I really want to hear a Sony ECR electret someday but the prices skyrocketed so I'll probably never own one. Guess I gotta make do with my 15 or so other 'stats.

First thing I thought when I saw the driver was it looks like a Stax electret, so is it an electret or full electrostatic? Looks very cool. Too bad I'm done with collecting vintage 'stats after I find a Gamma Pro and ESP9. Here are the pics of the Superexen I already sent to you: PEP-81 https://www.dropbox.com/s/4kso86ao196v3yr/IMG_20140113_221339.jpg https://www.dropbox.com/s/urt7iycl6orzegq/IMG_20140117_224116.jpg EP-5 https://www.dropbox.com/s/zib1xq32ynjv41x/IMG_20140113_221434.jpg https://www.dropbox.com/s/0dz5ebtns5p6rb4/IMG_20140117_222908.jpg https://www.dropbox.com/s/ujis7j066vt0bre/IMG_20140117_223110.jpg

I would buy for that price just for the blackness. "It's like, how much more black could this be? and the answer is none. None more black."

Hahaha, whoever owns those is going to take Team Fuglyphone to the next level. I, for one, welcome our new Fuglyphone overlord. Of course, one small yank on the cable could end up destroying the driver beyond repair so the strain relief must be fixed in some way.

What species counterpoint most closely relates to what you're looking for vs. cantus firmus Stax? Will you actually be playing both headphones together? If so, how will you manage to fit both headphones on your ears at the same time, and what of amp counterpoint?

hunter2 trumps all

I have taken all reasonable suggestions into account. I have ignored all unreasonable ones. Where did anything about treating me like a superstar take place at all, until you somehow conjured it up? Anyone even slightly more advanced than a beginner (I'm talking middle schoolers) would take offense when someone tells them to swap out their instrument for a 5 stringed piece of plastic. I sucked it up and chalked it up to naive helpfulness. Then he suggested to put up 8" thick plaster walls in a condo. Whatever happened to people here being thick skinned? You guys can't take a simple disclaimer-laden fuck off anymore? Whatever, I know you're all buddies in the club so there's no way you would take an unbiased point of view. I guess there's no point in me being here anymore.

The whole idea of my post is you don't need to rent out a giant concert hall to be able to practice. People who have clearly never stepped into or even looked into a practice room at a conservatory are not qualified to comment on practice space size. How the fuck did I act like a cunt out of nowhere? His first suggestion was to play on a 5 stringed plastic piece of crap, and his second was to install a 8" plaster wall in a condo. If that isn't trolling, I don't know what is.

What do you know about whether or not I have insufficient room, what my walls are made out of, their thickness, my violin, my hearing, my neighbors, or anything else? Fuck off if you don't want to give real advice.

That's like telling a F1 car driver to practice driving on a Toyota Yaris.

Thanks anyway, Ken. I don't want to mess with construction related things since it most likely requires knocking down and/or putting up drywall, condo approval, time and effort, etc etc. No one has come barging to my door ranting about how loud I am... yet, so I'm thinking just a few room treatments that can attenuate a few dB and suck up some reflections would be enough for now. I don't hear much from their side of things, mainly dog barks and hammering.

glenn gould - beethoven 5 (concerto, not symphony)

Just what I need, more stuff

I found a material called Porous Expanded Polypropylene that does small to medium amounts of both sound absorption and transmission loss, which is what I'm leaning toward now. http://www.soundaway.com/Echo_Drop_PEPP_s/119.htm Most of the soundproofing materials I read about are supposed to go between the studs behind the drywall, there isn't too much that can help just mounted straight onto the wall but the PEPP is one of them. I'm pretty sure the walls are concrete.

Or you could just steal a brand new ZDAC for the suggested retail price of $475.

Awesome, good to know. I unplug. I also almost never listen to it (or anything) so there's that...

^ Dat stack(s). I still have (well, sort of) my 1100 and it still sounds good. Black Gate Magicks are not to be trifled with.

Tried the same basic ingredients but tweaked. Better milk, more oats, non-chunky PB, and Chocolate Peanut Butter Syntha-6 instead of Cytogainer. It's... amazing. I could keep doing this for awhile without more tweaking. The highs are crystalline, the lows are phat, and the sound is realer than real life.

I am actually practicing in somewhat of a booth right now, so maybe all I need to do is put it up some stuff on the "booth" walls and then some light stuff on the wall adjacent to the neighbor. Only way I can really know how much the walls already attenuate is getting somebody with an SPL meter to stand in the neighbor's room while I play in mine (and then compare with SPL meter right in front of me). So far I'm just guessing how much it attenuates based on what I hear of their voices and movements through the wall. I'll do some more research and hopefully come up with a solution. You are lucky to only have to deal with the floor, I feel like rugs would take care of most of the problem.

Good points all around, thanks. Lowest note on the violin is around 196Hz so thankfully I don't have to deal with the bass, which I read is the hardest to attenuate. I read up on the two main measurements/specs they do, STC (Sound Transmission Class) and NRC (Noise edit: Reduction Coefficient). So I want high both, without the panels being too ridiculously heavy since hanging really heavy things on walls with nails sounds like a bad idea to me. And they thankfully don't need to be too heavy because I only need attenuation from 196Hz and up. Not sure if it's feasible to seal everything, but I may be able to cover most if not all of the one wall in question (adjacent to my neighbor). Wtf at some guy on HC that suffocated? I'm totally unaware.