Steve had some Turtle Wax so I used that once. I also tried linseed oil wax but it wasn't great. I'm getting some carnuba for the next time.

Pretty pricy! I use 3M Marine Paste wax - smells nice too!

I've never put wax on a tool. I have used WD-40 to clean them once or twice.

I guess I have wd-40 as well. Tried the paste wax but not liking the streaking after buffing so might move to the Boeshield for future treatments.

I figured it would need something as every other steel thing in the garage likes to rust. 

6 hours ago, dsavitsk said:

I've never put wax on a tool. I have used WD-40 to clean them once or twice.

What do you put on your cast iron tops?

How much variance do you guys have in the table/extension match. I have it perfectly lined up in the back of the saw and have this much variance up front. 
 

1 minute ago, VPI said:

How much variance do you guys have in the table/extension match. I have it perfectly lined up in the back of the saw and have this much variance up front. 
 

Mine are just about perfect. You want them as close as possible. 

Without grinding the table down, not sure how the length of the extension can be stretched to match the table. 

I am talking about how the side edges are not matched if that was not clear. Like the wing is slightly shorter than the table. 

2 minutes ago, VPI said:

Without grinding the table down, not sure how the length of the extension can be stretched to match the table. 

I am talking about how the side edges are not matched if that was not clear. Like the wing is slightly shorter than the table. 

Ah, thought you meant the top. I would have the front flush since that is what the rail for the fence mounts to. More critical to keep that all aligned than the rear I would think. 

Makes sense, I just assumed they would make them the same size. 

They evidently hired someone from Festool to design the power controller mount as well.

“Please mount screws in a location inaccessible with human hands, built within a steel enclosure so no light can ever reach the screws and then be sure in the instructions to have them install this right after they install the wings; as it would be way too easy to put this on before the wing install”

6 hours ago, naamanf said:

What do you put on your cast iron tops?

Wood?

Not sure my knees and back will ever recover, but I think I am done outside of leveling the zero clearance and setting up the blade. 

Why didn’t I think about this!

 

Do any of the SawStoppers use the folding out feed table?  Trying to decide whether to get that to save space or build a work table/out feed table with storage and sacrifice the space between the table and the router table.
 

The folding one seems to interfere with not the Industrial mobility and the dust port.  

3 minutes ago, VPI said:

Do any of the SawStoppers use the folding out feed table?  Trying to decide whether to get that to save space or build a work table/out feed table with storage and sacrifice the space between the table and the router table.
 

The folding one seems to interfere with not the Industrial mobility and the dust port.  

I have it. Like it. No issues with dust collection when it’s up. When it’s down you still can hook up, just have to lift the table a little. 

On 12/3/2021 at 1:28 PM, dsavitsk said:

Wood?

Wood without lube? Sounds like a terrible idea.  Steve? 
 

Here is the dust port with the outfeed table down. Very easy to access. 
 

Yeah, it looks like a decent option for my setup.  Still need to come up with some work surface larger than the MFT though.

Now that I have watched a video of the eleventy billion steps required to put the SawStop one together; I think building one with storage might be simpler as well.  

Edited December 5, 20214 yr by VPI

Building shop cabinets is kind of meta woodworking. We made a nearly 16' level base/toe kick and cut all of the parts for the cabinets, miter saw stand, and work surface at the back of the shop today. Laser leveled the base/toe kick that straddles the short remaining strip of the old slab and the new slab, so that all cabinets built on top will automatically be level (assuming they are squared up properly). The Sawstop with Jessem roller wheels (like the ones Jeff just bought) and two people was brilliant at breaking down and sizing the plywood. Cuts through it like buttah.

I seem to love the meta hobby work - probably a bit too much. I have learned that about myself over the years and it’s something I can’t seem to undo..
 

I do not think this either fake or very old NoS woodpecker straight edge is going to blend in with the other tools on my woodpecker wall. 
 

I cannot even imagine how it got to be this color but this is the only one I could find locally to finish up the setup on the saw stop. 
 

Edited December 7, 20214 yr by VPI

1 minute ago, VPI said:

I do not think this either fake or very old NoS woodpecker straight edge is going to blend in with the other tools on my woodpecker wall. 
 

I cannot even imaging how it got to be this color but this is the only one I could find locally to finish up the setup on the saw stop. 
 

Someday I'm going to invest in a proper Starrett.

 

I was using the 12” from the starrett combo square up to this point as the “straight” edges on my expensive levels proved crooked. 

I think that straight edge is from Woodpeckers LGBTQ line.

Though they call it a "flat edge", so as not to drive away LGBTQ customers.

Because Fitz hasn't been around lately. 😁

In other shop news, my niece's husband is not an astronaut but he does build a nice bench with Veritas vices and other fixtures. He's also given me the hand tools and such on the temp shelves below on indefinite loan. With three Lie Nielsen planes and sharpening gear available, I guess I'll try shaping wood and honing tools by hand (Tice bait).