Or is he a genius???????????

Hey Doug, I found the perfect project for you. 

 

21 minutes ago, swt61 said:

Hey Doug, I found the perfect project for you. 

Dovetails in oak is no small feat. But how sad to put that much effort into a bed for one.

Uhm, I choose to sleep alone, and I personally love sleeping alone (alone meaning me sleeping in Suzy's bed), and would be happy putting effort into a bed for one human and one dog 97% of the time.

Do any of you experts have thoughts on minimum board length for the planer. My new one shows 6” in the specifications which is much shorter than I would expect. 

I will probably just use the drum sander for the short ones 10” so I do not get 3HP worth of Sapele in the gut. 

I don't like to plane anything less than about 20". That's just a personal comfort zone.

If I  have to plane short boards, I  like to tape them to a longer piece of MDF, with double sided tape.

Yeah I guess it all come down to comfort level. At the moment I am still in setup mode as getting a perfectly flat table and wings has been a bitch and I either have feed rollers too low or pressure on their springs too high as the boards do a nice little hop when they come out from under the outfeed roller. 

Edited October 20, 20223 yr by VPI

Adjusting to get minimal Snipe is well worth it.

Edited October 20, 20223 yr by swt61

No snipe whatsoever as it jumps when it comes off the out feed roller, well past the cutter head. 
 

The rear rollers were off a bit (low) so they are set now to .020” below the cutterhead and the chip breaker was down .015” (supposed to be .040” from the cutterhead so I am hoping those combined were creating the weirdness. 
If that doesn’t work I am going to lower the spring tension on the feed rollers or drop the table rollers. 

Edited October 21, 20223 yr by VPI

Was able to nail together the ottoman for the lounge chair setup out front. My Total Boat Wood Sealer I used on the chair has gelled up on me so I tried to thin it down as the stuff is out of stock everywhere.

Hopefully it behaves in it thickish oil current format. 
 

 

Damn, that's hot!

Super minor project from the East Coast crew.  A friend/consultant is retiring who was a major part of the project that I'm currently responsible for.  So I made him a small token of appreciation - a custom black walnut coaster.

 

What thickness do you use for coasters? I need to make some for the outside tables and need them to be substantial enough not to cup, if possible. 
 

Also, finished the awful finishing process. I need to just spray everything. Brushing sucks. 

The chair looks great!

2 hours ago, VPI said:

What thickness do you use for coasters? I need to make some for the outside tables and need them to be substantial enough not to cup, if possible.

I don't think there is a thickness that won't warp, but using quartersawn wood of any thickness will help a lot.

4 hours ago, VPI said:

What thickness do you use for coasters? I need to make some for the outside tables and need them to be substantial enough not to cup, if possible. 
 

Also, finished the awful finishing process. I need to just spray everything. Brushing sucks. 

 

1 hour ago, dsavitsk said:

The chair looks great!

I don't think there is a thickness that won't warp, but using quartersawn wood of any thickness will help a lot.

 

I agree with Doug about quarter sawn wood. But if you can't do that, be sure to coat all sides with the same finish. Not finishing the bottom or gluing a different species of wood on one side will almost certainly make them cup. Whatever you do to the top, do to the bottom. 

The Titan is IMO the best HVLP on the market.

That Bubinga grain just dances. Absolutely gorgeous!

Also add little feet so air can circulate on all sides

At that point wouldn't you just use the album as the coaster?

@VPI - like Doug and Steve recommended, even coating and allowing for even drying will be your best defense against cupping.  For aesthetic purposes I usually go thinner for coasters than the above piece but that stock started 7/8” thick and I could only bring myself to surface it down to 1/2” (roughly) to get proportions close to what I wanted without feeling totally wasteful.  And if you want some super weather resilient exterior coasters with designs on them just let me know and we can laser etch some glass for you.

Felder has a hell of a deal on the N2-35 bandsaw. If I could come up with the room I might add it to the collection to have a resaw bandsaw and a curvy bandsaw. Bandsaw with base for $999, or without base for $1350????

 

Edited October 29, 20223 yr by VPI

30 minutes ago, VPI said:

Felder has a hell of a deal on the N2-35 bandsaw.

https://www.investopedia.com/bullwhip-effect-definition-5499228

 

You could also upgrade your cnc and save $18,000!

Looking through Jeff's point of view, I would absolutely have two tablesaws given the space and funds.

I'd have one set up with a standard blade and safety cartridge, and one setup with a 1/2" dado blade stack and cartridge. 

For those non-Dougs that resort to the lowly pocket screw, the Dewalt trays on sale at HD do fit perfectly to get all the individual packages out of the drawer.  
 

I corrupted Doug this summer and got him to build and install a mantle using ONLY Kreg pocket screws! 😆

That's what "screwed" him up!