The Monkey Posted July 27, 2009 Report Share Posted July 27, 2009 A good friend of mine owns a McIntosh amp and pre-amp--both vintage, probably 1970s. My friend likes audio but doesn't know too much about the technical side of things (and no, my "friend" is not me). He needs some help with this McIntosh gear. My friend's apartment building caught fire and his apartment, though not burned, was totaled. His entire apartment was soaked through due to the fire hoses and smoked through due to the, well, smoke. The gear is now sitting at an audio store in NYC, and has been for a while. He has been quoted a "repair" of $2000.00 for the McIntosh gear and a Hafler amp. He does not have a good idea of what's going on with the gear, and he doesn't understand what the repairs entail. I've asked him to get the estimate in writing, and to also get me the model numbers of the gear. I will post further info as it comes. In the meantime, I think he still needs to verify the underlying premise that the gear is broken. He does not know for sure that it go soaked. But he's afraid to turn it on for fear of shorting/blowing stuff up. I figured before he spends $2k on stuff he doesn't know or necessarily need, let's see what kind of advice Team Arcy Sparky has up its collective sleeve. As far as I know, the gear is solid state, not tubes, but I have asked him to confirm this. He told me that the amp and pre amp were in great condition and do not look bad despite the fire. I'd like him to try to power the thing up at least and then maybe try it through some speakers. But of course, I'd like to know (a) the safest way for him to do this and ( the worst-case scenario (and second worst if worst is death/maiming). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tkam Posted July 27, 2009 Report Share Posted July 27, 2009 death and personal injury are pretty unlikely but if there's something seriously wrong with the amp it could fry speakers pretty easily. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Monkey Posted July 27, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2009 He probably has access to some expendable speakers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hopstretch Posted July 27, 2009 Report Share Posted July 27, 2009 Sounds like he needs a DAC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n_maher Posted July 27, 2009 Report Share Posted July 27, 2009 First tell him to get the gear back from the shop so he can pop a cover and look at it. If it got soaked or even steamed it's probably not worth fixing in my book. It's not so much the water that is the problem, but what is in the water for contaminants during the fire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin gilmore Posted July 27, 2009 Report Share Posted July 27, 2009 99% chance it works as is. That stuff was built like a tank. If its tubes it is even easier to clean up. I've seen mc75's submerged under water that when left to dry work to spec. However the chassis then was steel and that will rust, so you need to attend to that pretty quickly. If its tube stuff its definitely worth fixing. Even the solid state stuff from back then was pretty good. MC26 preamp, MC6100 power amp... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Monkey Posted July 27, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2009 Sounds like he needs a DAC. Of course! That's why I'm trying to save him $2k. Then he'll need one of MY DACs! (Btw, lots of O2s floating around teh interwebs, good sir.) First tell him to get the gear back from the shop so he can pop a cover and look at it. If it got soaked or even steamed it's probably not worth fixing in my book. It's not so much the water that is the problem, but what is in the water for contaminants during the fire. I have a feeling this gear is going to be paying me a visit. But $2k seems a bit (a lot?) crazy without knowing more, doesn't it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dsavitsk Posted July 27, 2009 Report Share Posted July 27, 2009 Isn't this what insurance is for? You can get some big output caps for cheap to put between it and the speakers for testing if you are concerned that it will spew DC. Or, get some 8R 5W resistors and put those across the speaker terminals (instead of speakers). Then, assuming no smoke comes out upon turn on, use a cheap multimeter to measure across the resistor for DC. If there is none, download a 60Hz tone, play this through the amp, and measure for AC across the resistor. if you get AC but no DC, then hook it up and give it a listen. 70's solid state gear that's even worth $2K? I am having trouble envisioning it. I agree with Nate that I'd open it first and see if anything looks corroded. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Monkey Posted July 27, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2009 Unfortunately my friend jumped at the insurance co's offer to cut a check for the whole apartment. So of course that was a lowball number and the cash is long gone or otherwise accounted for. I'm having trouble envisioning what the $2k would be for, too. And now I want a copy of that estimate to see if this is a co. that we should warn folks about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin gilmore Posted July 27, 2009 Report Share Posted July 27, 2009 70's solid state gear that's even worth $2K? I am having trouble envisioning it. I can think of lots of 70's solid state gear worth way more than $2k. This isn't in that league... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Monkey Posted July 31, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 31, 2009 Ok gang, the power amp is the MC2205: The preamp is the C32: These are random pics from the web. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Monkey Posted July 31, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 31, 2009 And here's the repair estimate: Repair Estimate for McIntosh C32: -Found output intermittent -Need to troubleshoot/repair and/or replace components on both channels -Replace defective capacitors in power supply section -Replace defective lamps -Recondition switches and controls Parts @100.00, Labor @450.00 (Total 550) Repair Estimate for McIntosh MC2205: -Found output intermittent -Replace output relays -Repair open solder + ground connections -Replace defective lamps -Clean + lubricate controls and switches Parts @ 100.00, Labor @ 375.00 (Total 475) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin gilmore Posted July 31, 2009 Report Share Posted July 31, 2009 And none of that has anything to do with water damage. The electrolytic caps in the power supply of the amp are 25+ years old and need replacment. All Mcintosh switches get dirty and scratchy, especially the volume pot. The light bulbs go out all the time, and are very easily replaced. But evidently that is the cost of decent labor these days. Personally i think it is high, and if you send the stuff back to the factory they will do a better job and be a bit cheaper, plus come with a warranty. This is great classic Mcintosh stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktm Posted August 5, 2009 Report Share Posted August 5, 2009 I've had experience with smoke/water damage and electronics. Even if it works ok at first, the combo of moisture and smoke causes all sorts of corrosion in switches and controls. In a couple of months, it gets real nasty. I'd sell it as is, and buy something else. It will be nothing but trouble for years to come. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flecom Posted August 8, 2009 Report Share Posted August 8, 2009 70's solid state gear that's even worth $2K? I am having trouble envisioning it. mcintosh stuff is worth serious $$$ even the vintage stuff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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