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So I recently bought an aftermarket CPU cooler after a few yrs of using the shitty thing that came with my processor. Good lord, putting the cooler into an already built computer was a huge pain in the booty hole. I had to take everything off the motherboard so I could remove the entire thing and mount a bracket onto the back. Lesson learned: have the nice CPU cooler/fan ready before building the computer.

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So I recently bought an aftermarket CPU cooler after a few yrs of using the shitty thing that came with my processor. Good lord, putting the cooler into an already built computer was a huge pain in the booty hole. I had to take everything off the motherboard so I could remove the entire thing and mount a bracket onto the back. Lesson learned: have the nice CPU cooler/fan ready before building the computer.

yeah, installing the stock cooler was the hardest part about building my PC by far.

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Not all coolers in pre-built computers are shitty -- the one in my Vaio is pretty outstanding.

I have no idea what goes into pre-built computers =). I assume anything marketed to gamers has pretty nice cooling bits.

I put my computer together initially using the cooler that came in the box with my chip. It's really bad.

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Yeah, the Vaio isn't a gaming machine by any stretch of the imagination -- it's sort of like a crossover (and by that, I mean bicycle or car) -- it's at that awkward point between a full on SUV/mountain bike and a regular car/regular bicycle that make a lot of people wonder who the target market for that is, but I am that target market (ironically, I have both a crossover bike and a ... alright, my car isn't even a crossover, it's a crossover between a car and a crossover).

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In selecting components I've always found that you'll pay a premium for the absolute newest and best of anything. I don't regularly keep up with the technology but when I go to build a new PC I just shop around and find where the price break exists, especially on CPU's, GPU's and memory. Pick your processor first, then find a good motherboard with as many expansion slots as you think you'll ever need. Remember to match your memory to the processor by FSB speed, and I recommend OCZ for their excellent warranty service.

The graphics card is the easy part, since it's simply about what you can afford and again you're looking for the best value probably in a slightly older unit. ATI has often put out a previous gen card with overclocking and other advancements to compete with their newest high end card at a lower price. Go to Tom's Hardware and look up the newest best video card benchmarks, they'll compare to several other models and recommend the value option.

Don't skimp on the case or PSU, go for a luxury name brand. Nothing flashy since those are mostly trash. Just a nice basic tower with some kind of quick mounting hard drive option.

As far as build day goes, it's all pretty simple. Line up your metal screw-in spacers with the holes on your motherboard and they screw into the case, set the motherboard in and set all the screws. If that's confusing just relax, you'll see what I mean when you unpack the hardware. After that the hardest part is attaching the CPU fan. Get a good thermal compound, but don't splurge on the stupid $50 tube of silver paste. Most CPU's nowadays come with a pre-applied compound but I don't trust those, and you'll need to clean that off (carefully!). As I said the CPU fans can be a serious pain in the ass with their stupid tension clips. Just work slowly and patiently, and don't be too afraid when you feel like you're pushing too hard. Just like sex with a virgin.... :P

After that you're home free, just start plugging things in one at a time, making sure to connect all the necessary leads from the PSU. Refer to the motherboard layout guide for some of the smaller pin connectors like the CPU fan, front audio and USB jacks, and the HD activity and power indicators (these last 4 will all be the wires running from the front of your case).

Once you're all set, turn it on and hopefully you'll boot up fine and be able to adjust your BIOS settings. Most of these should be fine from the factory though you might want to look up memory timings from your manufacturer and set those. Set your boot device to your optical drive and throw in an OS install CD and you're off. If it doesn't boot up as expected just recheck all your connections, chances are something came loose during the install. Don't panic. If it still isn't working, walk away for a bit and try again only when you're not frustrated (yes, this has happened to me on two of my PC builds). If all that doesn't work, find yourself a good local computer shop and have them take a look. On the tiny off chance that you got a bad component, or broke something yourself during the assembly, a good shop is your best bet at finding the problem and getting the right part exchanged. Of course you'll pay them for the privelege but that's the tiny risk you take when building your own.

EDIT: Lulz. Just realized this is an old topic. Whatever, I'm tired and now it's there for the next n00b.

Edited by NightWoundsTime
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The inline SATA noise filter connects directly to a hard drive whether it's solid state or standard spinning disk. Regular SATA data and SATA power cables are then connected to the filter. No special cables required. The installation could not be simpler. The SOtM filter has individual 12V, 5V, and 3.3V RF noise filters in addition to ripple noise filters. I was skeptical at first but after seeing objective measurements detailing the positive effect this filter has on a computer system and placing this filter in the new C.A.P.S. server I'm sold.

A $65 power filter for hard drives? :blink:

SOtM-SATA.jpg

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