Leaderboard

I was the one who wrote that list so no, I don' have a Mk2.5. It is something new.

The KGST's baby brother lives, say hello to the KGDT... This is the same circuit but uses the common noval dual triodes instead of the 6S4A. While this opens up a whole world of tube rolling it does mean it must run at lower rail voltages (+/-300V) and a bit less current. This is the SRM-006t to the SRM-007t but also not as it doesn't suck. The switch on the PCB allows to select either 6.3V heater tubes (normally with a shield) or the 12.6V ones with a center tap. The amp was designed around the ECC99, 12BH7, 6CG7 and 6n6pi but there are a lot of others that will work. Some old computer grade tubes that can be had for next to nothing that I will try out.

Try Cinemag, perhaps? The CM-13107 is a 10k:600/300/150/32, and the mixed stack was very affordable. The primary impedance is a bit high, but they might another standard design that would be a better match. I know they mix their stack differently than Jack does, so it might make sense to derate the power handling slightly.

my favorite thing about burn in is it ALWAYS makes things better. Never once does anyone report that X is good for 1000 hours, then turns to shit.

Yup, and they sure can rock. Bass has that slight reverb to it which suits rock perfectly. I'll reserve final judgement until I've plugged the ports and played with the pads. This is a bloody good start though...

A little more Dynalo/Dynahi comparison: Normally I hate the sound of compression, but a lot of movies use it as an effect where they eq a synth line and hard limit/compress it, but keep the top reverb trailing off. The Dynahi can make the HD800's playing movies sounds like a theatre venue due to it letting you hear this technique in a movie soundtrack; the use of a combination of high frequency reverb and hard limiting. It sounds particularly compelling. Some drum and bass producers cite it as a technique for maintaining a lot of energy in the music, or in this case suspense. Don't get me wrong, it sounds compressed, but the representation of the acoustic space is the same as what you'd get in a movie theatre. You can't hear the compression in the same way on the GS-1, it sounds boomy as opposed to resonant, which means to me it is less transparent. For all practical purposes, boomy and punchy is all you need for most music, and actually sounds much more organic than hearing how the bass resonates and carries in the recording space/studio. For me it's a fine line because all dynamics sound somewhat boomy, and I rarely am interested in hearing the bass resonate in a space, except if it's with genres that use that bandwidth to relay some of the music's energy. Classical music relies on the venue to create the acoustics of a concert hall, Metal uses the cymbal hits and reverb guitar/vocals to simulate some of the movie theatre acoustics I was referring to earlier. It doesn't hurt or hinder electronic music, but the additional bass resonance is interesting compared to how an e-stat renders the detail. With the GS-1, you can hear the mids and highs resonate fine, but it doesn't seem to dig out that last bit of resonating bass detail that, depending on the mastering chain, can carry through the frequency spectrum. Once again, it depends on whether or not you even want to hear the bass resonating the recording space, because it does take a lot of your attention to listen to it. (it was the intense sounding attribute I was referring to earlier) For any other music it's pretty much equal to me because punchier is really the name of the game in dynamics imo, and both the Dynalo+ and Dynahi are really punchy. With the G-lite, minus Dynalo + boards, it's not a very powerful amp. I don't remember it adding enough punch to the Audio-Technicas I was using with it to justify the cost. On the other hand, the Dynalo + boards have a huge amount of punch, with low and high impedance headphones. WIth the mk2 boards you get a reliable solid state amp, but there's no denying that the build quality and features are really part of what you're spending your money on. If you don't want preamp, loop outputs, stunning craftsmanship, I guess there's always the Beta 22. Sadly I didn't think the Beta 22 had that much punch, but maybe my gain was too low. (4 in balanced config) I find it a little bizarre that the HD800/Dynahi doesn't have the same genre bandwidth as the GS-1 for me, but with the things it does do the Dynahi is really the best in it's class (aka that I've heard), but a lot of that will come down to headphone preference / personal preference. I find it easy to forgive the Dynalo + for what it brings to the table since overall it isn't any less involving to listen to and the pride of ownership is really off the charts.

It seemed a bit punchier for one thing. It was quite a while ago that I made the change so it's difficult to remember the exact details. It also works better as a hand warmer.

That's very nice PICaudio you went to a lot of trouble on those. I agree that using the remote shaft method is not as straightforward as it might seem. I thought it would be good practice to keep the inputs and the mains switch at the back so did this with my Compact KGSShv. I originally used 6mm aluminium tube for the shafts and made nylon bushes for the front panel. To get a nice feel to the operation this has to be made well with shafts lining up accurately etc. paradoxper demanded a different layout with big central attenuator so had to abandon this principle. It is as much work to do the wiring as it is to make the remote operators work well. I have not found any increase in noise by wiring up to the front and the benefit for me is that the feel of a pot/attenuator mounted directly to a thick front panel is better. I did find an extension kit on the internet which had brass connectors and a brass front panel bush. The rod was 6mm solid ally. http://www.vt4c.com/shop/program/main.php?cat_id=35&group_id=2 EXT- KIT- 26 and 30 This is how my original build looked. i still have those input pcbs lying around if anyone wants one

Yes, I like the Bel Canto designs. This is a Hifi2000 Pesante box of 2U and I used the typical heatsinks of 63.5mm high with 5mm PCB spacers. I only made some low quality photos with my phone I mounted the power LED behind the icon

The obvious joke is Steve.

It's quite clear why Stax has changed the cable design - if you look at the original, the cable strain relief is not completely fixed in place - small movements over the years will very likely cause the tiny leads (or solder joints) between the cable and the driver to fail from fatigue. The new design eliminates this problem - now the driver and the strain relief are effectively one unit. But you are indeed correct - the drivers appear identical - the only change is likely to be in the aluminium cup to hold the new strain relief screws? I think it's looking quite plausible that after all this could just be variation between samples due to poor quality control?

I just realized something (thinking speed slooows down the longer it has been since you've hung up posters). There's the Markl Mod for the Denon D5000 that makes it sound better than an R10. Is this the spritzer mod for the SR-007Mk2 that makes it fart?