dsavitsk

Ivan Reitman, Director of Ghostbusters and Stripes: https://www.vulture.com/2022/02/ivan-reitman-director-of-ghostbusters-and-stripes-has-died.html

https://www.caranddriver.com/news/a39025312/2016-mazda-radios-seattle-stuck/

What Your Favorite Sad Dad Band Says About You https://www.mcsweeneys.net/articles/what-your-favorite-sad-dad-band-says-about-you

I think you won't go wrong with the Forrest blade. But a Ridge, Tenryu, etc. would surely be just about as good. I generally only use one of the bandsaw ports. I have not notice it working any worse doing so. And I don't have my whole shop plumbed. Instead I have a single large hose that I move from tool to tool. Works just fine. My #1 shop rule is that I am never in a hurry, so I don't mind a few extra minutes moving things around. https://www.rockler.com/rockler-dust-right-4-quick-change-handle-with-expandable-hose

I'm sorry to hear about your mom. Also very sorry to hear about your kitty. For Dunhill, a litter box with low sides may help. They make them for rabbits. We had one for an elderly cat and it helped a lot. Additionally, there are some new treatments on the horizon for arthritis pain in cats: https://www.usatoday.com/story/news/health/2022/01/14/cat-arthritis-fda-approves-groundbreaking-drug-pain-management/6524588001/

If you are resawing, I like the carbide tipped blades. I think they are worth the expense.

Which one? W1706 shows $1300 with free shipping to me. I wouldn't pay that for it. W1849 is showing $2200 shipped - $1300 for that is a good deal. It lacks the foot brake and ceramic guides of the similarly priced ($2200 shipped and in stock at Woodcraft) Lauguna 14bx. At $900 less that's fine, though I'd rather pay the extra for those two features.

RIP Richard Lee-Sung. https://www.metv.com/stories/rip-richard-lee-sung-a-m-a-s-h-actor-who-actually-served-in-the-korean-war

Dobie Gillis. https://www.nytimes.com/2022/01/09/obituaries/dwayne-hickman-dead.html

Polar bears move into abandoned Arctic weather station – photo essay https://www.theguardian.com/world/2022/jan/31/polar-bears-move-into-abandoned-arctic-weather-station-photo-essay

Instead of 4 little feet, you could do 2 wide feet. That will increase strength considerably without changing the look much. You would also then be able to add a beam down the center that would be largely unseen, but with a sort of lap joint, help hold the wider feet in place.

Feet like that are popular these days, so clearly it can be done. Something like a sliding dovetail and a very strong piece of wood might do it. Depends what is going on the drawers.

I think those little feet may need something to keep them from snapping off

I just assumed that someone selling a $750 jointer for $15,000 would have plenty of stock.

Northfield: http://www.northfieldwoodworking.com/jointers/medium.htm

https://www.earthandflax.com/ottosson-linseed-oil-paint

I have a flat grind Forrest blade. It's not actually flat. Not flat enough for joinery, and super disappointing. My experience with ridge blades has been mixed. 40 tooth leaves swirls. Rip blade is nothing special. 80 tooth is nothing special and not worth the effort to put it on the saw. I like the custom ground dado I have, but the thickness is inconsistent. To get a 1/2" groove, I have to use a 3/32" chipper and a 0.01 shim rather than a 1/8" chipper. My go to for a while has been a Forrest 48 tooth which does most things better than any specialty blades I've tried. Also, I'd earlier mentioned my love for the Freud ftg rip blade. It cuts cleaner joinery than the ridge 40 tooth ftg that's specifically made for joinery. Go figure. And obviously better than the Forrest almost ftg blade. While I'm on the subject, worst blade I've ever used is a CMT orange that was highly touted by an unscrupulous YouTuber who definitely isn't getting a kickback on them.

Happy birthday!

Kintsugi: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kintsugi the Japanese art of repairing broken pottery by mending the areas of breakage with lacquer dusted or mixed with powdered gold, silver, or platinum; the method is similar to the maki-e technique. As a philosophy, it treats breakage and repair as part of the history of an object, rather than something to disguise.

I think you're joking, but I've come very close to doing that on several occasions. That said, I went for a long spell using a Freud 24 tooth rip blade with flat teeth for everything. Worked fine, and I don't recall there actually being any more tearout than with my fancy 80 tooth ridge carbide. Modern blades are so much better than the ones that existed when all the blade rules were devised.

I would not put any modern finish over those floors. In your effort to preserve them, all you would be doing is putting off ruining them a few years. Also, I'll disagree with Steve's technique. For rustic looking white washing, do it how it would have been done when a rustic white wash would have been applied. https://milkpaint.com/