dsavitsk

I just assumed that someone selling a $750 jointer for $15,000 would have plenty of stock.

Northfield: http://www.northfieldwoodworking.com/jointers/medium.htm

https://www.earthandflax.com/ottosson-linseed-oil-paint

I have a flat grind Forrest blade. It's not actually flat. Not flat enough for joinery, and super disappointing. My experience with ridge blades has been mixed. 40 tooth leaves swirls. Rip blade is nothing special. 80 tooth is nothing special and not worth the effort to put it on the saw. I like the custom ground dado I have, but the thickness is inconsistent. To get a 1/2" groove, I have to use a 3/32" chipper and a 0.01 shim rather than a 1/8" chipper. My go to for a while has been a Forrest 48 tooth which does most things better than any specialty blades I've tried. Also, I'd earlier mentioned my love for the Freud ftg rip blade. It cuts cleaner joinery than the ridge 40 tooth ftg that's specifically made for joinery. Go figure. And obviously better than the Forrest almost ftg blade. While I'm on the subject, worst blade I've ever used is a CMT orange that was highly touted by an unscrupulous YouTuber who definitely isn't getting a kickback on them.

Happy birthday!

Kintsugi: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kintsugi the Japanese art of repairing broken pottery by mending the areas of breakage with lacquer dusted or mixed with powdered gold, silver, or platinum; the method is similar to the maki-e technique. As a philosophy, it treats breakage and repair as part of the history of an object, rather than something to disguise.

I think you're joking, but I've come very close to doing that on several occasions. That said, I went for a long spell using a Freud 24 tooth rip blade with flat teeth for everything. Worked fine, and I don't recall there actually being any more tearout than with my fancy 80 tooth ridge carbide. Modern blades are so much better than the ones that existed when all the blade rules were devised.

I would not put any modern finish over those floors. In your effort to preserve them, all you would be doing is putting off ruining them a few years. Also, I'll disagree with Steve's technique. For rustic looking white washing, do it how it would have been done when a rustic white wash would have been applied. https://milkpaint.com/

How far apart are the holes?

It looks like rift sawn white oak from here.

Happy birthday!

Not what I thought I was about to see ... For the observant, that's Brent's favorite drummer, Chuck Biscuits. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chuck_Biscuits

The Lazarus Heist “Almost a perfect crime.” The hacking ring and an attempt to steal a billion dollars. Investigators blame North Korea. Pyongyang denies involvement. The story begins in Hollywood. https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/w13xtvg9/episodes/downloads And an interesting discussion with the creators: https://www.lawfareblog.com/lawfare-podcast-lazarus-heist-jean-lee-and-geoff-white

Happy Birthday!

I'd never heard of her. It's not a genre I'm terribly familiar with. But roon suggested it and I've really been enjoying it so far.

They definitely, unequivocally, provide mechanical strength. Dominoes more than biscuits. That said, in a table top, they are surely unnecessary. But they do help with alignment. One issue, especially when using them on MDF or ply, is that the swelling can work against you. They swell when wet, bond to the cavity, then dry and shrink causing small divots.

I own one that is sitting idle that I'll make you a great deal on. Of course, you have to pick it up in CT. It's fine. Works well. 6" Can be frustrating. I think you can get an 8" from other manufacturers for the same cost.

Yes, that was the point.

Because I feel it's my job to be a Christmas downer, over time, wenge will lighten to a medium brown, purple heart will lose its purple and turn medium brown, and padauk will turn a kind of medium brown. So in a year, it will look more or less like a walnut cutting board.