dsavitsk

I saw Xanadu in the theater when I was 6. And owned the soundtrack.

Maybe I missed this earlier - what are the drivers? And is it basically a 25 liter sealed box?

Hastens.

The Copenhagen is a differential cascode circuit. The Copenhagen V uses tubes (valves) for the upper device, while the Copenhagen S uses transistors (sand). They are otherwise just about the same. It does indeed use input and output transformers (amorphous Lundahls in both cases, though the inputs can use mu metal instead). The tubes (E81L's) need not be matched at all. It is what is often called a "transconductance amp". In essence, it uses the headphone's impedance as an I/V converter, and it takes advantage of the slight Sennheiser impedance bump to make it a bit more euphonic. When used with Senns, I'd describe the sound as happy and punchy (kind of making them sound like how Grados would sound if they were not grating) - some people hate it, others love it, but it definitely has a sound. It can be linearized with the addition of some parallel resistance on the output (this is what a triode amp does except the parallel load is the tube plate impedance). Without doing that, it is not great with the Focals. Even with, they are so poorly damped that it would not be my first choice for powering them. With phones that have a flat impedance, it is pretty neutral. It's not an amp for everyone (definitely not for the objectivist crowd), but it is my favorite these days - I use a Copenhagen S with 650's for most pleasure listening.

You could make it slightly more complicated with the help of a laser turntable.

That is a "Copenhagen V" headphone amplifier. Power supply is external.

I might need to fire my photographer, but here's something new.

We did end up buying the hand made, foam and latex free bed. It was over the top, but, after daily back pain for years, to suddenly realize my back has not hurt since the day we got it has made the price worth it.

Speakers look great, but I'll never understand the desire of woodworkers to hand make things out of natural materials only to coat them in plastic.

Happy Birthday!

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trap_street

That's a patent case.

I own that Forrest blade, and if you look at the copy closely it says it cuts nearly flat bottom grooves. It still cuts little bat ears. It's good enough for an unseen groove to fit a drawer bottom as there is enough flat to hold glue, but it is not nearly good enough for joinery you can see. The Freud ripping blade is tons better as it is truly flat and just suffers from a little tear out as it dulls. (It's real fault is that the kerf is ~0.128".) Ridge also makes an ATB+R that might be a bit better than the Forrest, but still is not perfect. As far as I know, the Ridge 40 tooth FTG is a unique blade.

It was lovely. It's supposed to snow on Monday. I'm pretty excited about that blade. It is, so far as I am aware, unique - it is a 40 tooth flat top grind with a precise 0.125" kerf meant for doing joinery. Every other flat top blade is either a ripping blade with fewer teeth and a less precise kerf, or has an 8" diameter and is wider.

On high Z, the L2 has a Zout of something like 50 Ohms. The headphones have an impedance of 80 Ohms at 1KHz, but 300 Ohms at 50Hz. That means there is a voltage divider with the headphone Z and amp Z. So, if there is a 1V signal, at 1K about 38% (50/(50+80)) of that signal is lost to the amp's impedance, and the other 62% goes to the phones. So you are left with a 0.62V. At 50Hz, the amp is still 50 Ohms but the phones are 300 Ohms. That means they get 86% of the signal. That's nearly a 3dB boost at 50Hz. Hence too much bass.

Rate the fuse for the primaries.

Happy Birthday!

I'm skeptical about remastering - I can't say I've ever really heard a remaster that I thought was much better, but I have certainly heard plenty that were worse. This one feels pretty easy to get wrong. But I am excited about the re-release of the old demo tapes. That should be fun.

There might be albums out there that are as good, but I am doubtful there are any that are better.

Sometimes flipping toroids will reduce stray fields.

While I cannot speak to the rest of New England, having spent winters in Minnesota, Wisconsin, and upstate NY, I can say that people in Connecticut* cannot handle their weather.

You can cut a hole in the bottom plate under the PT and then add a small plate underneath to fill the gap. It will add the thickness of the plate to the interior which appears to be about enough, and it will be hidden.

I've certainly chucked an end mill in a hand drill to chop out something small when I was too lazy to dig out the dremmel. But even of the drill was OK with the side force, it is not fast enough for milling.