nikongod

Wine is never the answer. But I will have some too.

You didnt pay nearly enough to remove said gunk.

I am also interested to see what is new, but I don't necessarily expect better. Does Kaizen need to affect the finished product to apply? It sounds like it is being applied well if you have a consistent product, and you just improve your worker's lives a bit by upgrading their chairs or doing something else that is not necessarily obvious to the end user.

FAE=failure analysis engineering? I don't think headphones (or speakers) are that easy to simulate. Advances in computer tech & more importantly the VERY good availability of compact rapid prototyping machinery might help things out, but I think senn is large enough that they could afford older & more expensive rapid prototyping. Once you reach a certain point is just really hard to make improvements.

This sort of thing pisses me off. Like a lot. Why should they be expected to? Moore's law does not apply to mechanical things.

I gotta reply to like a zilion PMs sorry. Since even the great and wise company Nikon has to do one stupid thing in their existence the D700 will not upload from the camera*. The L-plate will also need to be loosened to slide over and access the port. Less of an issue, but still. * It MAY work with proprietary Nikon software, but has never worked in Linux. The D200/300 both said "durrrr, I'm just an external hard drive" and hook up to anything perfectly. Because nobody ever leaves their CF card reader home.... Fuckers.

NOOOOOOOOOOO!

I don't have any specific fitness goals for 2014, but some rough ones. I want to make MOAR POWER! Strava says I average like 75W. I needs mores! I want to get home from work in 1 hour (according to my cheap computer) while maintaining a low (~137bpm) average heart rate. On Squirt, obviously. This may not actually be possible. Keeping up with Nechama on her Gunnar would be cool.

R2 is totally un-necessary. R3 will bleed the whole circuit without any help. C1 should be smaller. 22uF tops, but 5-15uF would not hurt anyone or anything. Have we learned nothing about the perils of big input caps from the WOO amps and countless Chinese piles of fail? I guess the guy who designed this did not. R12 should probably be 470ohms. Probably a typo, but it should really be a few LEDs in series. Or a funky voltage source/CCS like Doug uses. What choice did the designer have for the heater supply? AC heaters? That is not an option in an amp like this - if someone puts in a microphonic tube (but its my absolute favoritest) it will hum like what. This is true even if you bias the heaters well above ground. And then you are responsible for building a $4100 amp that hums when the same tube did not hum in my old amp - it is clearly something wrong with your amp. no I will not try another tube, this is the best tube I have. What? You say its microphonic and I should smash it up with a brick? You are a fool! No, the tube you sent with the amp does not hum, but its a cheap eastern-block tube. This tube was handed down through my family from mr RCA (what the fuck!) himself who gave it to my grand-dad. Yea it was buried in the back shed for a few years behind an old Ford Fairmont, but we could not get the old radio out from behind the car until we got the car working again, and that never happened. As luck would have it the shed fell over in a storm and all I could salvage was this tube and by golly I'm going to use it. In your fucking huming amp. Except your amp hums. so I'm not going to use it. Is now the wrong place to say what filaments? 5ar4 is indirectly heated, with the heater hooked up to the cathode on one side of the heater supply. Tube rectified heater supply? LOL WUT? Whats with the hate? Its an overpriced amp, clearly. But, that seems to be the overwhelming trend in hi-fi. I hope anyone with the skills to p2p this takes the extra hour or 3 to design their own thing at least this nice and get some extra pride from that. Anyone who wants to build it on a PCB should sit down for a few hours and learn to wire things p2p then design something better. I wish the circuit were just a little more interesting so that more people could learn from it though that is a shame. The DNA stuff is as boring as you would expect.

DO. IT! It is a very under appreciated lens. Such Bokeh! Please ignore clipped ear

Have you considered the Pico DAC?

Just think how easy it would be to build DIY electrostatics if you had a CNC mill/router. Not to mention rapid prototyping PCBs.

With the trend towards "I never crop" I think the sphere camera will be quite popular. Indeed, it is the only obtainable camera that captures 360*x360* FOV. I wonder how it will work indoors or in "less than full sunlight" light.

What does the magnet do?

130kM = 80.5miles. Interesting... Very interesting... If only it were a bit warmer.

Just cut the 1/4" plug off and solder a 4pinXLR on the stock cable.

If its any help (or not) I really like the CKK-III as a project for further down the road. On many levels its a shame that it gets passed over for the b22 so often.

There is a "low" setting, which is kind of sort of ISO 100.

This. I have not been shooting my D700 (or anything really) recently, LMK if you want to borrow it. Have you ever shot with ND filters? I am not so into shooting wide open, but use them for reallllllly long exposures in daylight. In any case, they offer a lot of power when used well. I have ND1000 (a very cheap one with a delightful color cast that comes out in RAW but no doubt iritates JPG shooters everywhere) and its pretty fun. ND4, ND8, and ND16 are pretty sweet for shooting wide open in daylight. Once you get past ND16 it starts to get too dark to see, but you rarely need more than that unless you want longggggggggggg exposures anyways. You can also use them (ND4-16) for fill flash in reallllly bright daylight, or fill flash wide open on an overcast day... so much option.

Hapy Birthday Ken!

There should be a better word for this in English. I wonder if there is an engineering term? Insanely strong and powerful, until a mouse farts the wrong way and it explodes. Its a lot like Prince Rupert's drops (Check out the high-speed camera footage, they are fascinating) In a similar vein: a perfect soda can can support body weight. Well, until you tap it with a pencil and it collapses.

I would start with a Cmoy. Even if you get one of the RA-1 clone kits (with a PCB) off of ebay. Building a perf-board CMOY is also great, but a decent bit harder than the PCB cmoy. Maybe save this for project #2. It's not the Cmoy is great, it isn't. But who cares? The Cmoy is cheap and a known standard. If it breaks someone here or there has probably broken one just like you did before - so you can find help. It is also has relatively few parts which makes checking every single solder joint and operating voltage that much easier. If you really cant get it running, what did it cost? like $50? Cheap enough to say oops. Since it is more likely that you do get it running, give it away, or sell it for $50, or just put on the shelf as a pleasant memory. The hardest part of DIY (maybe its just me, but its not) is casework. The Cmoy does require some casework, but who cares if you destroy an Altoids tin? Get another for $3 (and the mints!) and try again. Great way to practice.

I'm kind of skeptical about whether rechargeable watches are a better solution than watches with conventional batteries. My last rechargeable watch (a Seiko Kinetic) did not go 3 years on its last battery, which is well within the limits of what one should expect out of a battery in a simple day/date watch. For several times the replacement cost I kind of lean away. I just found out you can buy replacement batteries and DIY them into the watch... The Seiko may live again. Except I also hate electronic watches.

You got a permit for those guns? Congrats!

Its great that you are trying to convey something, but it sucks that its not coming through. It sounds (and looks) like you have some aversion to "the rules" as the guidelines to composition are usually seen - a limited set of rules that usually get it done well enough to make things easy for people who dont understand how to or want to pick the best tool for the job. Since it also sounds like you care (or you are a great troll) I would advise against blanket following of a few simple rules of composition. That is BS, I agree. BUT since you care you should have no troubles learning as many rules as you can at first and selecting the best one(s) to suit the situation at hand. After a bit of study you will start to see the principles behind the rules at which time you will only need the rules to make sure other people understand your photos. A lot of people fall into the trap of thinking that great photographers don't follow rules because their photos are all so different. The reality is that great photographers pick the best rule for the situation from a larger list and apply it more skillfully.