swt61

It's got a lot of movement to the grain for sure, more than the pics show. That's why I thought an oil finish might be appropriate for the "Colossus". And I love that emoticon Nate! 5 coats total should do the trick. Hmmm, I hadn't until now. Thanks for all the nice comments guys!

Thanks Nate. It is coming out as well as I'd hoped.

No, just pics of the one Audio Cubes sells. I had an AT headphone on hand though.

Here it is with Black Walnut sides installed. The corner posts will really complete the look.

Happy Birthday Al!

The last side was just glued and clamped into place, so I should have some pics within a few hours time. The table will still be without the corner pillars and armboard though. Oh and my sealer and topcoat arrived while I was toiling away in the shop, so the finishing process will start in the next few days as well.

Thanks man! Most people tell me I'm way too anal, because I carry my obsessiveness to every project I work on. I'm not the cheapest contractor on this island though, so I consider my attention to detail what sets me apart from the average Joe. Yeah, I think a good table saw, router table and drill press is essential on this project. Most of those tools can be rented however.

I'll be using a heavily modded Rega RB300, but building a new armboard for another tonearm would be an easy enough modification, should I ever go that route. I left plenty of room on the plinth for longer arms. One thing I really like about my modded Rega is that with the Pete Riggle VTA mod, it's as simple as unplugging the cables and the tonearm just slides right out w/out any retaining nut. And yes I own a second modded Rega RB300 to mount a second cartridge on. Color me the quick change artists. Also the Walnut side pieces are out of the clamps now, and I just installed the first one. After the glue dries I'll move onto the second and so on. So I may have pics later tonight. I'm using my biscuit joiner w/#10 biscuits. The biscuits and glue are only in the middle of the 5" pieces, so that the Walnut has room to expand and contract with the changing seasons.

Today I fabbed up the Walnut side pieces. They're pretty straight forward with a little arch cut into the bottom. But the have a shelf piece on the top that will stick out about 1/2" over the side, and will also cover about 3/16" of the plinth core as well, so as not to leave any gap where the Walnut side meets the Burled Maple top. I'm not sure if that makes sense, but here's a side view drawing... They're in clamps now, but should get installed tomorrow w/pics to follow. But just so I don't leave you empty handed, here are some pics of the holes I milled underneath the plinth to hold the shot fill damping. I knew it would be a PITA to do once the sides were in place, so I made the decision to go ahead with them. The caps are 1/4" plywood and should hold the shot in place fine. After I install the Walnut side pieces I'll start milling the 2" square corner pieces that will also hold the cone feet. Then the armboard will finish up the woodwork. I've decided to try out a new finish. I'm a big fan of the DIY network's show "Woodworks" and it's host David Marks is an incredible woodworker. He gives the brand names of the finish products he uses on the website, and it's not pure Tung Oil (he says he's used these products since 1984). There are two products by the same manufacturer, one is a sealer and the other is a top coat. They are oil based finishes, but with urethane and other additives. One coat of sealer and four coats of the top coat w/0000 steel wool buffings in between. They are in transit, but should arrive early this week, and I'll let you know what I think of them.

Sweet! I can't wait to hear the Buffalo, and I'll be a very good boy and pass it down the list after a few long weekend listening days. This is a very cool thing to do Naamanf!

I didn't realize there was an American distributor for these. Mucho thanks, I've bookmarked them!

Oh sweet! Unfamiliar with that case, any links?

Wow Marc, that's very cool! Was it as big a PITA working in that small space as it looks like it would be? It's definitely a full case. Houston is going to be a fun meet for yours truly indeed! Oh, and I'll post 'em for ya...

This was my inspiration, but of coarse mine will be taller, also my corner posts will be a bit more massive. Heck, the whole thing will be more massive in every way. This gives you a little better idea of where it's heading though. The resonance control is what I'm most interested in, but I'm not afraid of more mass either. Once I get this in place on my rack it's not going anywhere. Even if I have to rent a Genie lift to get it there. I think I may at the very least fill in the half moon cutout.

Wait, you mean you can get these shipped to your door now? Oh man the intrawebz is awesome!

"This product qualifies for Free Shipping. Click for details.FREE SHIPPING *Some restrictions apply. Click here for details. Reconditioned List Price: See Details $199.99 You Save: $185.00 Our Price: $14.99 Shipping: FREE" Sandisk Sansa m250 Digital Audio Player 2GB w/FM & Voice Recording - Recertified - M250 SDMX3-2048 - Buy.com I bought three. These will make great Christmas gifts.

I will be waiting until after I've heard the table before making a final decision. It is pretty heavy now, and the Walnut will add another 4-5 Lbs. The 1/4" plywood would only be seen if you turn the table over, but as you suggest hopefully I won't need to bother. Actually I just had a thought...If I do use the shot fill, I'll use a rabbiting router bit to create a rabbit on each hole, then make round plugs from 1/4" ply. That will keep them flush with the table bottom, and more professional looking.

Cutest baby pic ever!!!

Have a great one!

I haven't weighed her but I'd guess about 40 Lbs. w/platter. That would be awesome! My plan is to use a 2" Forstner bit to drill holes on the underside of the plinth, about an inch in from the edge, all the way around. Then use some 1/4" plywood to make plates to cover the holes, and screw them in place. This will be a massive TT.

Thanks! The Black Walnut sides, legs and armboard should really set the Burled Maple off. That and the Tung oil. The drillpress is easy, it's the shop space to place it that's tough. It's a really fun project, and the rewards will be great, as it should be a real contender for analog bliss. As I've said before it wouldn't be possible at all without the very generous support of luvdunhill. That guy is a treasure trove of information. If I could learn to speak and comprehend genius I could really tap into his brain.

Ah what the heck, here's some turntable bling bling minus the armboard.

OK to avoid a ban here's what I've done thus far. The top of the plinth core with Burled Maple veneer, and holes for bearing and tonearm. Note the small holes on each side of the rectangular tonearm hole, those are burried T-nuts for armboard adjustment. The six alternating layers of 3/4" MDF and 3/4" Baltic Birch plywood. The hole for the inverted bearing. Closeup of the tonearm and armboard mounting holes. The armboard will have the standard round hole for the Riggle VTA bushing. The larger hole underneath the plinth for the washer and nut of the inverted bearing. The hole underneath the rectangular tonearm hole, for the tonearm wiring. This cutout probably has you wondering. It's actually a cutout for drilling the bearing hole. I only have a benchtop size drillpress and the depth is about 5", so this cutout was needed to allow me to get the plinth in far enough around the drillpress post to drill for the bearing. Note that the top piece of Baltic Birch doesn't have the cutout, and was hand drilled. This of coarse won't be seen unless you turn the table over. Bearing installed. This is the washer and nut from underneath. The washer is 2" in diameter, a stout bearing for sure. The installed bearing from the top. With platter in place. Carbon fiber record clamp. I'll try to get most of the Walnut trim work done this weekend. Once I get this and the armboard done I'll have pics of the tonearm setup.

I've been playing around with vinyl rigs again for a while now. Some of you will remember that I was going to build a custom plinth for a Mitsubishi LT-30 a while back, but ended up just overlaying the plinth with Wenge. Well with my greatest resource at hand (luvdunhill) I opted for a completely custom table a while back. I purchased most of the parts earlier, but am just now finding a little free time to build the plinth. I went back and forth on the design several times, and almost ended up using some soapstone slabs. But in the end I decided on wood. Specifically the core of the plinth will be alternating layers of 3/4" MDF and Baltic Birch plywood. 6 layers to be exact, for a total of 4.5" for the core. That ought to supply some mass. Later I'll drill the core for some Micro-Bearing fill. Audio Points - 1.5AP-1C.5 Wide Body Threaded The 14' x 20" core will be topped with Burled Maple veneer, and wrapped on all four sides with 3/4" Black Walnut. I'll mill a nice slight arch on the bottom of the Walnut sides, and the four corners will be 2" square Black Walnut posts w/adjustable cone feet at the bottom. This plinth will get a Tung oil finish, most likely 5 coats. There will be a Black Walnut armboard to raise the tonearm to the desired height, and it will be adjustable in and out about 3/8" for optimum spacing between the spindle and tonearm pivot. The tonearm is a Rega RB300 w/Incognito wiring and Pete Riggle's weight and VTA adjuster. The platter is a VPI Aries Black Knight Black Acrylic platter about 2" thick. The bearing is the VPI Aries inverted bearing, and it's a beast. I also picked up a Black Diamond Carbon Fiber threaded record clamp. Marc has been the driving force behind this project, helping me secure the awesome Maxon motor, custom motor pod, custom speed controller (battery powered) which he built, as well as the Pass Pearl phono stage he's finishing up. I will most likely use a surgical silk thread belt for the time being until I decide whether I like the tape drive option better. The plan is to run a ZYX Bloom cartridge, but for now I will have to get by with a Grado prestige that I already own. Today I started the plinth work, and was able to get all the necessary holes measured and drilled, the 6 layers cut and glued together, and finally the Burled Maple veneer glued up. I probably won't get a chance to get back to it until the weekend, but I'll get some pics of where I'm at thus far posted later tonight (hopefully). And this weekend will start the Walnut trim pieces and armboard. I need to get this finished up for this months Houston meet on the 25th, so this will go faster than my previous TT projects. Stay tuned.

The stands are about 14" tall. Your pair of W5000's most likely just happen to be of a darker piece of Macassar Ebony. I've seen a huge variance in W5000s, which doesn't surprise me at all, because I've also encountered huge variances in the Macassar Ebony I've used over the years. Also remember that this stand has the camera flash enhancing the grain. It's a bit darker in person.