swt61

OK, So this is correct so far?

The notches are forward, toward the Blue caps, and inward toward the toroid. Ooh, very snazzy indeed!

Here's a quick pic of the begginings of the F5 power supply. The 1/4" copper plate was Marc's idea from another amp he'd seen. I think it really adds something.

Yep, showed up today.

Oh cool, I was wondering if there was a way to clean the flux off, thanks. The heatshrink is a good idea too, I may redo them. Colin I'm not really sure, and they confused me for a bit until Marc showed me that they were replacements. They're labled as 50 Ohm 5% 6.5W. Marc can chime in with more info.

I undoubtedly will not be embarassing any DIYers anytime soon, but I'm pretty happy with my first PCBs.

Thanks for the offer, but a large would fit me like spandex, and that's not a good thing.

Just read a great article on those lovelies. Me want bad! Mike those frickin' things are scrumptious!

^ Hmmmph really, don't send it down here.

I'm the idiot who missed that group buy altogether. Nice shirt, man boobs or not.

That's quite OK, because I think I'd feel better using the same resistors as used on the first board.

Yes you're absolutely right, they do measure 1K. Odd, why would they be different than the ones labeled 1K?

Hmmm, I have three resistors that are marked 100IF. They all were in one of the kits, and none in the other. I see no place for them to go, so maybe they were'nt supposed to be there. I've located the striped 10 Ohm as you've said.

Marc I did leave the transistors up off the board about 3/16' - 1/4". It just seemed natural to do so, as it would have required some pressure to get them closer. I think I'll wait for the solder sucker to arrive and try that first. Worst case is I'll by another transistor as you guys have described. Good news is that the boards are just about finished. Marc, where did you say the 100 Ohm resistors went again? I have three.

Well after checking I found a new solder sucker for $4.36 on ebay, and that was with free shipping, so I guess I can afford that.

OK, so now that most of my resistor issues are sorted out, I'm finally populating my boards. However I got one of the semi-round Black things (I don't know WTF it is) backwards. Obviously it's not going to be possible to heat all three legs and pull it off, and I don't own a solder sucker. I did remove as much solder as possible with copper braid. Any suggestions gentlemen?

I kinda wish I still had my dual Darkvoice monoblocks around to try with the K1000. I'm building the Pass F5 specifically for my K1000, and that easily falls into your budget, but alas no tubes. I'm thinking the Simple SE + K1000 = complete joy.

OK Marc, sounds great. Just give me a call when you get home, no need to talk on the road. Or we can do it tomorrow. I just ordered the IEC on ebay, thanks. It'll just be easier than three separate holes, as you already knew.

That's funny timing because I was at RatShack looking at resistors yesterday, and had the same question. None of the RatShack resistors had anywhere near the 3W rating I was looking for, so I opted to wait and lean on luvdunhill to help me with an order. From my point of view however that wasn't a dumb question. But great thread, because I too plan on asking many really stupid questions now that I've also been sucked in. BTW, who can steer me to a nice IEC w/fuse and power switch at a decent price?

Happy Birthday Smeggster!

Happy Birthday Al!

Well maybe I'm misreading the values, but I don't think so. Maybe I can call you later and go over it?

OK, I think I'll follow Al's lead and put together a Mouser order.

Lacquer, and I prefer satin finish. However since I always buff each coat with 0000 steal wool, a semi gloss would give about the same sheen. Hey Double Duce, good to see that it arrived in one piece, and that the phones fit well. Looks like we got a good color match on the Macassar Ebony. The grain's a bit tighter, but that's hard to match perfectly, especially on a curved surface like the W5000 cups. That shipped rather quickly.