Emooze

That is some fine automobile Todd. Grats! My damage from today's whisk(e)y festival:

Talisker 18

From what I know, the voltage rating on a fuse is at what point a busted fuse will arc. Having a fuse with a voltage rating over what it's being used with is a good thing. But I agree with MPI in finding an 8A slow blow fuse.

Did you try calling Mouser? I had one of my orders stolen out of a package and they sent me a replacement at no cost to me. Granted my order was only ~$7 but it's still worth a shot.

I tip my hat to you Cee Tee for taking charge and wish you the best of luck. Sticking through it all can be tough especially since you have a particularly large meet but it definitely feels great to see it all come together.

Very nice Grawk Southern Tier Iniquity then a martini made with local gin.

Still completely worth it. Finally ordered parts to build an Opus DAC

Rochefort 10

Someone uses Yahoo?

Rodenbach Classic, delicious x2

I found a few push button switches rated for 125VAC at ~3A but they were all momentary. Think I'm giving up on this idea though because almost no one seems to make latching versions. I'll stick with buying a replacement for the switch already in there, but many thanks for the advice.

Pulled out the fuse, read the value. Edit: I should mention I'm fixing an existing gainclone, not building one from scratch. Might have found a switch on ebay.

I have no idea what the actual current is and my meter is at school. Just went off of the fuse rating.

Looking for a latching, pushbutton power switch akin to a Bulgin vandal resistant switch that can handle 3A at 125VAC for a gainclone.

I would agree with the removal. I built my M3 with the BB and I always keep it at its minimum setting. It's extra clutter without extra functionality.

Some Habeneromash on some crackers. My mouth is tingling.

I actually did a bunch of research and testing for a friend when he was looking for full-size, noise-canceling headphones for the train. As far as widely-available headphones go, Sony and Bose were pretty comparable with Sony tending to be slightly cheaper. I personally like the Sony NC60 the most as the NC500 didn't really offer a whole lot more for $100 extra. The NC60 was comfortable, fairly sturdy, canceled out store noise really well and $100 cheaper than the closest Bose model. The only problem was I can't comment on sound quality. Though I'd agree with Sherwood and if you can find a used pair of QuietComforts, they were easily the most comfortable.

For the amount you spent, you could have gotten a decent single ended pot and just saved the money to go balanced later... Also interested in the RK50 buy.

My condolences Stretch. My exstata makes high pitched squeals with my lambdas quite often as well so I hope it's just that.

If you hadn't pointed it out, I would have never noticed it.

They sounded damn fine out of a WA6 (not sure if it was the SE or not) at CanJam, I wouldn't worry about the power.

Sufjan Stevens - The Age of Adz [ATTACH=CONFIG]3817[/ATTACH] Totally different from his previous work but still damn enjoyable

I'd say MPI is right. Neat little protection circuit too.

See I thought laser cutting some pieces to essentially bolt the driver to the baffle was overkill. Though I may pick up some polyurethane tomorrow on your recommendation. Also leaning more and more towards one of these newer lambda models as the reviews come in.

I like the little case for the drivers. Similar to what I was planning to do with my LNC now that the drivers refuse to stay on the baffle.