kevin gilmore

actually there was an electrostatic amplifier made in Canada (mcalister audio) that did just that, 2 extra tubes so that the series filament string came up to the right voltage. the rest of those tubes were not wired.

if you populate the cpc1117n part, then you need to apply voltage to turn the power supply on, its normally closed.

and then things like these for the pins https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-x-2-54mm-Male-40-Pin-Round-Header-Strip-Gold-Plated/161735709722?hash=item25a833141a:g:ehIAAOSw3xJVf2RC i'm sure there is a mouser part number, but can't find it

the opto switch is on the grhv power supply boards. You need to drive it with something external. That can be as simple as a switch, or a time delay circuit of any kind, like the one stax uses, or the one on the diy t2 which is 555 timer based etc. Never did a board for that

lampizator continues to advertise a DHT Plate Follower with a Voltage gain of +1 with a single triode. Not in this universe. Its crap like that, and transformers secured with double sided tape and a Mikhail class soldering job that tell me to run away fast. 20 years ago when the T2 came out, there was no such thing as a 1600v SicFet. Tubes were then the best way to do high voltages. There is a 4500v SicFet coming soon. Its going to be a bit pricey. But solid state direct drive electrostatic speakers will soon be possible. by the way you do know what birgirs middle name is right?

yes you have to use silicone grease on both sides. or thermasil on both sides for less mess

for the grlv, no reason to use the aluminum oxide insulators. the standard ones are just fine and don't make a mess.

board files for you updated including 100v massive overkill power supply ubaltobaltube.zip grhv100v.zip

this makes me smile a lot

So I've been looking at a bunch of tube/solid state hybrid dynamic amp schematics, and every one of them is some form of bad, or really bad. (one person/ex company in particular) Low voltage plate, capacitve coupling of a high impedance source into a low impedance, poor balance etc. There had to be a better way. true balanced input. dc coupling. low impedance output. no feedback. proper use of a tube (pure transconducance) etc so I came up with this, work in progress. 4 x 3 inches ubaltobaltubeschem.PDF

About 450 usd

I was thinking the other board. Yes that board gets that hot due to the transistors you can add heatsinks

not sure which stax jack board, but if the traces are more than .1 inch away they are good for 1kv now if there is too much flux, then who knows

that is hotter than I expect, what voltage rails and what voltages on the led's

yes its a goldenreference clone, but without the lt1010 reference chips. So they went with something a bunch cheaper for the reference. also they turned the tantalum into electrolytic which adds a bit more noise. still for the price, I can't even buy all the parts the way I build them for what they are selling it for.

Those are a clone of my older boards, but a different power supply. For the price looks like a great deal. Looks well built sanded off chips in the power supply a nice touch

1 amp at 30 volts times 2 power supplies is the same as 1 amp at 60v same total power

no idea, evidently lots of stax mafia stuff on taobao. The one guy took my power supply layout, copied it 100% then added stuff and changed the form factor and holes...

that is the ss dynalo balanced version with the mpsw transistors. which you are going to have a hard time finding. this is not the original unbalanced dynalo.

A 4 pin plug does not mean it's balanced the liquid Crimson is not balanced

the only one with a lifetime warranty was the liquid carbon version 1. https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=2013.1.20141003.7.4edb00b7muYKyQ&scm=1007.10011.70203.100200300000001&id=560442101039&pvid=d455e4ef-3a60-417c-9653-9dc0aea4d782 this guy will repair your piece of shit for you, the shipping both ways is going to be more than a liquid carbon is actually worth. my offer to ONE and only ONE person, send me your liquid crimson (the only one I don't have schematics of) and I will fix it for free. (plus parts and shipping) options can include turning the output stage into bipolar.

like this, one side, replace r7,r8 with 10k pot electroopamp.PDF

that cannot work with the + inputs of the opamps grounded.

quite a bit more power and heat and bigger power supply etc

the second schematic is not going to work, there is nothing to keep the output at +300, the left side of R4 needs to go to some negative value and AGAIN, the dn2540 will BLOW UP when the voltage across it hits 400v use a bsp125 in the to220 package if you want a 600v power supply but much better is a c2m1000 and a 900v power supply