mirumu

If you're willing to run Safari in 32-bit mode the Safari add-ons may work. You can change it in the "Get Info" dialog for Safari's executable. Technically even though a lot of these Safari tweaks are referred to as "plug-ins" or "input managers" they aren't as benign as those names suggest. Input Managers are actually unsupported back door Cocoa hacks that will never be supported in 64-bit mode, and may soon not work in 32-bit mode either. It'd be best to find new plugins designed for Snow Leopard.

There's Microsoft's Robocopy. Similar to rsync although it does a better job with permissions.

I run a forum that's had 150x150 avatars for a few years and have yet to have a complaint. Looks fine on the iPhone/iPod Touch too as it shrinks them down appropriately.

I've been using the new Mail and it seems quite a bit quicker to me. I didn't upgrade the old version though, this was a fresh install. All my mail is on a remote IMAP server so I just re-added the account and was back up and running.

I have a Blu-ray burner, but haven't actually tried to copy a movie. The BDs I have on hand are ones I own anyway, and the cost of blank media would make it fairly uneconomical. From my understanding though the big issue with copying Blu-rays is ripping the discs in the first place. The AACS encryption is broken at this point, but BD+ tends to be fixed every time it gets broken. The tool that always seems to be on the leading edge of Blu-ray encryption hacking is Slysoft's AnyDVD so if you want to give it a go, that's probably the one to try. Actually burning playable movie discs is fairly easy as far as I'm aware. There's a few people who've used them to format shift HD-DVDs to Blu-ray which also seems fairly easy. When the price of media drops I'll probably convert the HD-DVDs I own over myself.

Seems to me catscratch's comment is very true. I actually spent quite a bit of time looking at a lot of IEM reviews myself today as the carefully-repaired cables on my last working pair (some Shure E5Cs) are close to falling apart. I'd already decided on going with the JH13s, but won't be able to get them for some time so was considering a stop-gap option in the meantime. Ended up doing quite a lot of searching here and in other forums. It's hard work sorting through all the information out there and to make matters worse a lot of the opinions are conflicting. I think this is what makes it tempting to ask for specific personal help. Having read quite a number of such threads today though they all end up turning into the same thing, i.e. A wide range of opinions by whoever feels like responding on the day. There's never consensus and in many cases the disputed points are overblown or misleading. Threads like this aren't going to make the decision for you. They tend to just dredge up the same spread of opinions as the last time someone created such a thread and risk confusing you even more. When simply auditioning the IEMs themselves isn't an option the only method that I've found to work is to look for good reference points. i.e. Look for someone who owns something you do, check to see if their impressions of it were the same as you (preferably detailed impressions), and then see what they think of the ones you're thinking of purchasing. It's best if they've owned them a while too as you don't want to buy based on someone gushing about their newest toy. Finding the right impressions is time consuming and sometimes it's hard to find the specific comparisons you're looking for, but from my past experience persevering with it pays off because you end up with something more in line with what you're looking for. I don't have any specific recommendations to add myself since I haven't bought an IEM since the E500s, but I think our tastes are quite different anyway given your write up. I do wish you good luck though in finding the sound you're looking for.

I'm big on video gear, but not so much on the HT audio side of things. Very much in mid-fi land there. As long as it's basic digital surround good enough for games and movies I couldn't really care too much. Lately though I admit I've been finding the sound of my current setup a little lack-lustre. Been thinking about picking up a Sony STR-DA2400ES receiver. With DTS-MA, Dolby TrueHD, plenty of ports and a nice Faroudja 1080p upscaler I can't see anything missing I'd need.

Command-C and the other basic shortcuts are working here. Sounds like something's amiss. I'm not a big keyboard shortcut user though so I probably wouldn't notice if the more exotic ones had been changed.

It appears to be fully mixed mode. By default it will install a 32-bit kernel, but this can still run 64-bit apps. You can install a 64-bit kernel which supposedly is faster, but only specific newer Macs can boot the 64-bit kernel. Unfortunately my MacBookPro2,2 can't. If you run the 64-bit kernel you need 64-bit drivers and apparently some apps do not work. This is why it is not set as the default. When running applications the OS seems to prefer 64-bit versions if they're available. You can force 32-bit as that alert box implied. If I recall correctly there's no limit on architecture of code fragments or how many code fragments a Fat binary can have, so I assume in this case there are separate 64-bit and 32-bit code fragments in the app. For those needing more backwards compatibility Rosetta and Quicktime 7 are install options that are not enabled by default. I'm seeing a lot of talk online about various programs and media files not working, but I'm finding that in many cases they do work if these are installed.

I'm still setting everything up as I went with a fresh install. The reviews are quite right saying there's lots of little changes. The new Finder is far speedier although it's still easy enough to get the spinning beachball when working with network directories. This was the weirdest thing I've stumbled across with SL so far.

I'd been hearing that too. Plan to try it out the full install option on the MBP with a new Segate 500GB 7200RPM laptop drive. Oh, and supposedly you hold down "6" and "4" on boot to install the 64-bit version. I hear it doesn't boot on all supposedly 64-bit capable Macs, but I plan to give it a try to see.

Not yet, but I think when he says "repairs" his plans are more of a total rebuild. New PCB and all.

He hasn't. It's been sitting at my place for ages as he'd asked me to double check the schematic he drew up for it. He was talking of it getting the repairs done fairly recently.

Yes, but not especially well. I wouldn't use it in place of a decent DVD player.

I tend to use cotton buds (local Q-tip equivalent), and if things still don't feel clean will follow up with Audiclean spray. I tend not to have any problems with this method, but have once or twice used their wax remover just to give things an even better clean out.

Certainly seems to be that way given they use it as a reference in the frequency response and THD specs. Carl wondered if STAX are simply running out of their Ei 6CG7s and redesigned the 006t to use tubes that are still in production.

Interesting. Price is in the ballpark of the 727 (actually higher than Amazon's current 727 price). I'm guessing it'll have a solid state output stage if the only tubes are ECC99s. Edit: Oh, and a release date of September 8th supposedly. Not long to wait.

From what I've been hearing the main reason to look at these is the screen. I've not seen one in person of course, but it appears to be a big improvement from the poor screen on the iPhone/iPod Touch. Deeper black levels and a wider gamut. I'm hoping Apple makes the jump to better screens too in the near future.

Been talking to Carl and we're both keen on building one of these.

He was on the TV news here today. Needed about four people to help carry it all. Can't say I blame him as Westpac are regularly shown to be one of the worst banks here in consumer evaluations. Seems he didn't get any photos of himself with it all out on display which is a shame.

Are the memory wires themselves optional with the JH13 being customs and all? I hated the memory wires on the Shure E5C to the extent I ended up manually removing them within the first week.

You don't. Hence why I said "if all your hardware supports WPA2". If you can use WPA2 you should because it's more secure and allows faster transfers, but if you can't, you can't. I wouldn't lose any sleep over it. I'm sure Jacob's right when he says most crackers don't care about our personal data and would probably get in anyway if they really wanted to. The only reason I really care about security at all is that I don't want people downloading illegal stuff on my connection and getting the police on my case or using my precious overpriced bandwidth.

Unfortunately that just isn't the way MAC addresses work. Using a MAC address list to restrict connectivity doesn't provide security against anyone who knows a little networking or has the right tools. Generally the way to achieve the best security is to simply use the strongest encryption. Currently that's WPA2. If all your hardware supports it there's really no reason to not use WPA2.

It's only 48-bits to brute force. Besides, before it can get a valid encrypted connection your computer needs to first tell your router what your MAC address is. i.e. it is sent unencrypted in plain-text over the wireless link. Anyone snooping the traffic with something like tcpdump or NetStumbler can see the MAC addresses plain as day in the packets.

MAC addresses can be faked so there's still ways around that system, but if you need WEP there's no much you can do. That's probably as secure as it can be made. I do have a DLink router myself, but it's the DIR-855 which is one of their few quality models. 5Ghz 802.11N for the laptop and 2.4Ghz 802.11g/b for everything else. All WPA2. I have a few WEP-only devices, but would rather not use them than change from WPA2. In terms of the WEP vs WPA2 debate it's probably worth pointing out that as well as better security WPA2 also shows a 10-20% speed increase over other encryption types in benchmarks (IxChariot, etc). More than enough to be noticeable.