holland

I would have to check the work policies. The place I work at is fairly strict. I could do it myself, but I do not have access to the labs (again, strict, and secret projects, and NDA clearances, etc). The rework labs are also timed and tracked corporate wide, as well as having a huge backlog to service thousands of employees and hundreds of projects. It's probably a strange environment. Smaller companies I worked at were much less so, and nerds can help nerds as long as it didn't impact project schedules. It's not so easy at my current place of employment, sadly. Having access to state of the art scopes, and analyzers, as well as all the RF equipment, would be bad ass! Good link, checking the prices though, it sounds like the reballing is for the bga component itself. If it's on a board, it'll likely be over $200 to remove, reball, and reinstall. It's best to call for a quote, but if it's only $75, I would send my xbox in.

I agree, it's temporary. I have been meaning to purchase the equipment myself, as I have a XBox 360 with the red ring of death. It needs a reball as well, just haven't been motivated to look for someone or to purchase the equipment myself. I have done the reheating tricks, and it worked again for about 2 days. It's been sitting for a couple of years now. Unfortunately the equipment to do it would cost me 50% of a new XBox 360. I know people at work that can do it, but it would be "unethical" on my part to use company resources (technician and equipment) for personal gain, let alone finding someone who isn't buried under weeks worth of rework. Nobody I know has the equipment and templates at home. Good luck on your quest.

No worries, Lil Knight. I don't exactly have lots of free time to build amps right now.

In the absence of a function generator, you can use your computer's sound card and download some test tones. You can also double check each resistor is actually the correct value, and diode test all transistors. Brute force works. If it sounds bad, why are you running it for 5 hours? Something's broken.

Yeah, I am. I will correct, thanks much! I'm glad to hear that everything will be balanced sets. I added a request for a PSU for the Megatron, but if you're including something I'll remove that too. Yes!!!

Is it too much to ask for a schematic of the Lau amp? The only SS thing that Alex has done, that I'm aware of, is the CK2III, and that was a modification of the Kumisa III amp from Benny. Is it similar? I have an idea of what the Liquid Glass may look like, but I'm interested in seeing the buffer arrangement. Long tailed pair front end with CCS on the tail and a current mirror on the plate, feeding into a buffer, is probably the overall architecture. I didn't realize the market was that large, or had grown that large. I'd always figured headphone amps were a niche market, but Ray's cars seem to disprove that. If Ray is only a portion of the market, things must be well for everyone else involved. Nelson Pass is a very good read, if you've got the time, his articles throughout the past are very informative. https://passlabs.com/articles/audio-distortion-and-feedback

That works fairly well. A friend of mine uses it with no real issues. Then again, I've not heard of many problems with different lubes, just don't put it on immediately and ride. It'll gunk up, at least on dirt. Letting it sit for a while and wiping clean has the largest effect.

Nothing will last in dry and dusty. I'm not much of a road biker, more mountain for me. I use ProGold ProLink. The important thing is to clean good, and then let it sit overnight, and then wipe up before loading up the bike or heading out the door. It seems to work for me for 50-60 mile rides in the woods. I always bring extra lube and a shop rag. I've tried the FinishLine stuff (dry and ceramic wax). They were ok, I guess.

Can someone PM me the gerbers? Thanks! Edit: I should ask, does anyone have a board?

Thanks for this. Amazing! I'm listening now, have to pick up the CD.

Angela Gheorghiu - Homage to Maria Callas

Thanks. Is anyone doing a board run? I'd like to piggyback on for two pairs.

This amp looks very interesting. Are there any plans to distribute this more widely? The old Dynalo was a starter build for many, I'm not sure if they are still available from djgardner with the transistors and all. Couldn't one just use O+ and IG for SE, and 2 boards still? Or O+ and IG and O- and IG for 2 SE outputs, one inverted? Power rails still at 16.4V (or up to 20V IIRC with the old Dynalo), or has it bumped up higher?

It's actually tube choices, so it just means hundreds of brands of 6DJ8/6922/ECC88 tubes. 6N1P would work, but not be optimal, in my interpretation. Their amps are fugly, but functional. I like the output stage, according to the description, in this amp. The only downside is that it seems there is less class A bias, as they indicate it runs cooler than their Valhalla.

I do the same. It also helps to push it down, hard so it sits closer to the board. Solder from the top, and then adjust.

Umm...where in Marin? I'll have to stop by on one of the rare occassions I make it over the GG. Marin county is quite large.

Those have an interesting look. Where do you get them? I've only seen the black o-ring type.

You can go to OSH or Home Depot and pick up some clamps for conduits (such as electrical), or in the plumbing section for nylon tubing for things like refrigerators, water softeners, etc. There are nylon clamps and insulated metal clamps that you can use. They look like the stuff in the link Kevin Gilmore posted. I don't know how big these capacitors are, so I can't say if the standard sizes will fit. What are those things you have on the chassis in your first few pics? The blue and black textured rubber "things" that are marking your hole centers?

Sextett has the edge, IMO.

Since people are talking about a GLite, I would say you could go for a CK2III, it can be had for $250 or so to have it built or shop for used. It comes in considerably cheaper than a GLite and is cheaper than an M^3. Speaking of which, I would probably choose the setup in your sig, OP. The Entech was a very fine DAC, especially if you got it at the low low prices of $50-$90. At that price point it easily competes with many of the lower end DACs, even though it's old tech. Add a cheap USB->SPDIF adapter and that leaves about $150 for headphones. You can probably pick up an older K240 sextett or K240M and have some change to spare, it needs shopping though, which kinda sucks, or a HD580 or a Grado. If you can't get the Entech, I would go for a soundcard. From what I've encountered, the USB DACS under $100 aren't that great. The Alien DAC is a fine piece, but my modded X-Fi is still better. I got my X-Fi for about $50 on e-bay, and recapped pieces of it and changed the opamps. I still use my X-Fi until I can get the funds for an Opus (it keeps coming back for sale after I blow my monthly allowance).

Nah, don't wait. NAS is very easy to set up yourself. I use FreeNAS, but I'm not concerned about security, so the existing security is fine with me. There are other packages from small costs ($50) to very expensive enterprise level stuff. I'm thinking you don't need that. Anyhow, as mentioned in another thread, I have a 2TB setup using 8 320GB drives. You can use a cron job to kick off daily sync, as FreeNAS supports that. http://www.freenas.org/ . The reason I chose FreeNAS is that it has a third party SlimNAS server that can be used to support slimdevices. The speed isn't great due to the FreeBSD backend and CIFS issues, but it's more than adequate for streaming. Also I'm using IDE instead of SATA for cost reasons as I built this over a year ago. What you want to do is get a HARDWARE RAID controller. You will likely want something better than the integrated on board motherboard stuff. I would go for a RAID 5 configuration minimum, with 3 drives minimum. You can setup jobs to back up (actually just copy) from your main computer onto this drive and then do a tape backup every week or so if you need to. I'm using a spare dual P3-500 I have lying around with about 512MB of memory. The footprint of FreeNAS is much smaller and is actually made to boot off a flash drive as well. The memory requirement is very small as well, but I don't have anything less than 256MB, so it doesn't really matter to me. I also used a SCSI boot drive, an old 4GB SCSI drive I had lying around. here's the basic setup. - Install drives for RAID array and a small drive for BOOT. - Boot. - Go to RAID controller firmware. - Configure RAID array. - Reboot. - Boot FreeNAS CD. - Install onto single BOOT HD. - Reboot. - Configure FreeNAS through HTTP interface or console. - Setup share - Start copying stuff If that scares you, you can buy a pre-made NAS configuration from Buffalo, IOMega, etc. If all you want to do is build an external HD, buy a case with a USB interface or firewire interface and an SATA drive interface internally, shove HD into case. Close it up, plug it in, and now you have an external drive.

I've heard lighter bass in other headphones.

AKG K271. Beyer DT660. DT660 is extremely sensitive and very easy to drive and has the signature Beyer highs, FWIW.

I didn't like the Proline when I first saw them, looked cheap, as noted. The HFI series, IMO, look better due to the black. HD280 looks a bit different in the knuckle of the headband, as does the RP-21. The noted picture looks almost exactly like an Ultrasone. http://www.ultrasone.com/htdocs/08_frameset/hfi_index.php