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Happy Birthday!

Sorry for your loss Todd... sounds like he was a neat friend.

I believe you can use 2SA1943/2SC5200 in place of these, or their Fairchild # equivalents. Slightly less power handling.

Happy Birthday man!

Yes, arrow is reliable. And they take private individuals as customers. Since they have multiple warehouses around the US, if you order much, you will get multiple shipments, in big boxes (for the items being ordered/shipped). Kind of irritating, but they are reliable.

Happy Birthday!

Merry Christmas all!

Happy Birthday!

12/12 would only give you 12 * 1.414 = 16.96 - 1.4 = 15.56, so probably good for +/- 15V GRLV, depending upon how much overhead you need for a GRLV, and I would probably use 15/15 for that.

Take a look at amb's site for the o22. Dual secondary 35/35 = 70V CT. https://www.amb.org/audio/sigma22/ 18/18 would be 36VCT.

12V is too low for a 20V output. I'd use dual 18/18. 12V would give you 12 * 1.414 = 16.96 - 1.4 = 15.56V. I don't think the math is any different for a center tap / single bridge application, but I could be wrong. In answer to your question, #1 is correct. You can use a dual secondary transformer configured as a CT.

Happy Birthday Ken!!!

For the case, the anodizing will isolate each panel from one another. Many people use a bit of sandpaper or abrasive to clear the anodizing in a small area in between panels, and where the PE ground is connected from the IEC terminal. As for the PSU ground, I would not connect it to the chassis directly, but use a ground loop breaker (see https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/audio-component-grounding-and-interconnection.163575/). For the case, once you are satisfied, I would check with an ohmmeter to make sure you have continuity.

Interesting (for someone who has never tried buying direct from Japan). For us who aren't fluent in Japanese, are there any services you would recommend to assist? Just looking at Buyee now. Nothing I really need, but I like that they limit volume.

Those in the other set will be fine.

Nice idea! I like how you did the front panel in two layers. Where are you located and doing/having this done at? And what kind of cost comparisons have you made? I know FPE is expensive for machining, as is Modushop. Why FPE doesn't add re-anodizing also is beyond me. The FPD software works pretty well (for those of us not versed in 2D/3D CAD), but does have a lot of limitations in terms of what it can do.

Happy Birthday!

For many device series types, the N and P are not going to match well. If you can get more devices at a reasonable price, that is always best. Where are you purchasing these devices from? A known supplier? I guess my point is, are they genuine devices? A lot of fakes out there (ebay, aliexpress, dalbani, etc.)

Damn. Bad news Al. RIP Steve!

As I recall, the one built by paradoxper that I fixed for tkam had a bit of difference in volume (not measured) between ZF and SS modes. Close, but not exact. It was close enough that it wouldn't have bothered me. I'll order B on-semi sand.

Kevin, A couple of questions. I have a pair of thru-hole boards which I am planning on building. The BC546/556: Is the C variant still preferred, or is B acceptable? Should any resistor value, etc. changes present on the new PZTA board be used in place of what is shown on the thru-hole boards? Also, I'm noting a bunch of new vendors in the TO92 space since on-semi and I presume nxp are discontinuing much of this. Taiwan Semiconductor, Central Semi, Diotec, Micro Comm. Components (MCC), etc. Are these all equivalent, or would one prefer to use on-semi if available?

Happy Birthday Todd!

One other quick question: the datasheet shows panel depth of 1-10mm. Have you used this on a 10mm panel, and did it fit OK? I'm rethinking doing the cavity inset, but might put a 2mm cavity or so on the back side. Otherwise, just have the hole drilled and use in 10mm panel.

One more stupid question regarding vandal switches. The eSwitch ones I am looking at have 3V LEDs. None of the PSUs in the equipment have anything near this (+/-30V in one, +45V in the other). Do you just use a series dropping resistor, voltage divider, or what to accommodate these? I'm guessing trying to change out the LED(s) in one of these switches would probably be a good time if you fried it

Thanks Nate, but I already have an order in with Modushop and will just need to wing it. I'll probably go a little big on diameter (25.2 for a 25mm switch). I don't have the switches yet. That panel will be re-anodized after machining, so should look fine.