Pars

Happy Birthdays guys! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think it is the LSJ489/LSK689 that are the matched pairs. For a reverse taper pot, can't you just connect a regular log pot backwards (In to the pin normally grounded, ground the pin that is normally the in pin)? Or am I mistaken?

I think that luvdunhill and I were mentioning Arrow. I used them for the semis on the GRLV. I just got a 15% off code from them today, valid for the next 5 days 15-GDKP-DS Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Vibrapods?

Just curious Kevin, but have you looked at putting the pot either midstage or at the output on your designs? I realize this is probably no-go on electrostats, but on the dynamic amps might loosen 10k only problems? I know Pass does this some, but requires even lower values (2k on Pass Aleph P pre for example). The guy doing the Neurochome HP-1 also seems to advocate this. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes, the premier looked good! What a depressing place and time though... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes, those are some of the parts I added for myself. Like I said, I added lots of optional parts in that BOM. Just use the original BOM and you'll be fine with changes for R8/R9.

I was building a single plus up for 35V out, but not done yet. Spice models are notorious for doing this kind of stuff, particularly when the user is a novice (re: idiot), so I wouldn't worry about anything I said above having any basis in reality. Should work fine. Is yours for an ssdynahi?

35V would be fine, 25V also. I am looking at a Spice model I got from Kerry which seems to oscillate once you change the gain to something other than the stock 1.5K/1.5K. I'm sure it is something in the model (a device model). I know luvdunhill has one as well, and he told me the same regarding the tantalums (25V sufficient for most outputs).

Sounds right. What transformer are you using? Also, what voltage tantalums (10uf/47uf)?

Pffft. How can you do cable rolling without it? You know you need those pure-silver-spun-by-nymphs-in-the-rainforest cables that cost more than the phones...

Oops, yeah forgot the HV part and haven't looked at voltage specs for SMD resistors. 2510 doesn't seem to save much real estate over thru-hole. Vey nice job though! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nice job Birgir! What have you got the SK170 pair wrapped in? Also, can the HV silicon be obtained for these today? And are the thru-hole resistors just there cuz you didn't have the SMD on hand? What size package are the resistors? 1210? 0805?

Looks good. It appears that you populated all 3 bridge rectifiers in the Power Supply? You should remove the center one. It is there for people who want to use a center-tapped transformer. Since you are using a dual secondary transformer, only the 2 outer bridges are used (BR1 and BR2 in the schematic). With a center-tapped transformer (say 20-0-20), only the center bridge (BR3 in schematic) is used.

Seeing shit like this tells me pretty much all I need to know about Lampizator...

You might be able to implement something like this: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/headphone-systems/199530-o2-amp-crc-diode-cap-heatsink-mods-6.html Pay no attention to it being for the O2 amp You would need a 4P switch to pull this off (simple bass boost on/off).

Happy Birthday!

You might be better off sticking with the 10V ref and using R7 of 700r (715 is closest e96 value) for 13.57Vdc. That is with a 2K R8. Only if Kevin thinks the 10V Vref will work fine for 13.5V. What are you powering that needs 13.5Vdc? Seems like an odd value... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just curious as I ordered a std. 4CP-601. I had trouble getting it mounted on the temporary piece of plexiglass I am using until I case the amp (ssdynalo) up. I see from the datasheet that the threaded portion is 6mm. What was ordered for the extended version of these? Longer threaded nose portion? Longer shaft? Both? Or was extended only available for the CP2511s?

^ This! What a good son Bryan

Happy Birthday Jacob! Miss you!

Happy Birthday Chris!

I know, tl;dr Question on using an IR thermometer on these. When I aim at the to92 flats, since these are in rows of 4, it seems like the far end device measures hotter than the others, and temp increases as I go down the row. Shooting them from the top results in more even but somewhat lower temps. I think the thermo is picking up more than the one device when going for the flats down the row. Thoughts? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What Nate said. Have the Honda dealer check the charging system and if they don't find anything wrong there, see if they can determine if there is some drain on the battery when the car is off. 3 batteries in 3 years is way excessive. I would have expected 1 battery to last at least that long. Many batteries are really made by the same manufacturer. I've been using the Everstart Maxx from Walmart in our cars for a few years and they have been economical and reliable. And I normally shudder at the thought of going there (Mobil One and the batteries is about it). Reading some of the Honda sites, the 51R is the recommended larger battery to go in there. Batteries such as the Walmart Everstart Maxx have a 60 month warranty, and they replace the battery outright for the first 3 years, then prorate after that.

Wow! and ^ this