Pars

Ryan, I think I have an extra discwasher zerostat gun laying around if you want it... pm me.

Happy Birthday Grahame!

Hmmm. Built up a GRLV Plus board set for 35Vdc. Testing with a variac at ~20Vac in or so, output is around 20Vdc. However, D1 is not lit, and Q1 Vce is 0V. I've gone thru and checked that I have PNPs/NPNs in the right places, right parts, caps in correctly, etc. Changed out Q1/Q3/Q14, same problem. LED is in right as well. Scratching my head right now. Q14 Vbe 0.65Vdc EDIT: why that would be the opamp locking up Dave... Raised the voltage on the variac and things snapped right into place. 35.112Vdc out, from what I could measure unshielded on my HP3468, around 48uV of AC noise on output. DC out very stable. 36Vct split bobbin putting out 44Vac unloaded so will need to use a different transformer. Never put it up to line on the transformer, but nothing running hot. Dropping around 14Vdc c-e on the pass transistor at 40Vac input.

Yep, oops had those flipped. Thanks!

Pretty soon your going to be telling us that you are now implementing all of Machina Dynamica's wondrous products and inventions Good that the rollerballs work well. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Happy Birthdays guys! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think it is the LSJ489/LSK689 that are the matched pairs. For a reverse taper pot, can't you just connect a regular log pot backwards (In to the pin normally grounded, ground the pin that is normally the in pin)? Or am I mistaken?

I think that luvdunhill and I were mentioning Arrow. I used them for the semis on the GRLV. I just got a 15% off code from them today, valid for the next 5 days 15-GDKP-DS Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Vibrapods?

Just curious Kevin, but have you looked at putting the pot either midstage or at the output on your designs? I realize this is probably no-go on electrostats, but on the dynamic amps might loosen 10k only problems? I know Pass does this some, but requires even lower values (2k on Pass Aleph P pre for example). The guy doing the Neurochome HP-1 also seems to advocate this. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes, the premier looked good! What a depressing place and time though... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes, those are some of the parts I added for myself. Like I said, I added lots of optional parts in that BOM. Just use the original BOM and you'll be fine with changes for R8/R9.

I was building a single plus up for 35V out, but not done yet. Spice models are notorious for doing this kind of stuff, particularly when the user is a novice (re: idiot), so I wouldn't worry about anything I said above having any basis in reality. Should work fine. Is yours for an ssdynahi?

35V would be fine, 25V also. I am looking at a Spice model I got from Kerry which seems to oscillate once you change the gain to something other than the stock 1.5K/1.5K. I'm sure it is something in the model (a device model). I know luvdunhill has one as well, and he told me the same regarding the tantalums (25V sufficient for most outputs).

Sounds right. What transformer are you using? Also, what voltage tantalums (10uf/47uf)?

Pffft. How can you do cable rolling without it? You know you need those pure-silver-spun-by-nymphs-in-the-rainforest cables that cost more than the phones...

Oops, yeah forgot the HV part and haven't looked at voltage specs for SMD resistors. 2510 doesn't seem to save much real estate over thru-hole. Vey nice job though! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nice job Birgir! What have you got the SK170 pair wrapped in? Also, can the HV silicon be obtained for these today? And are the thru-hole resistors just there cuz you didn't have the SMD on hand? What size package are the resistors? 1210? 0805?

Looks good. It appears that you populated all 3 bridge rectifiers in the Power Supply? You should remove the center one. It is there for people who want to use a center-tapped transformer. Since you are using a dual secondary transformer, only the 2 outer bridges are used (BR1 and BR2 in the schematic). With a center-tapped transformer (say 20-0-20), only the center bridge (BR3 in schematic) is used.

Seeing shit like this tells me pretty much all I need to know about Lampizator...

You might be able to implement something like this: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/headphone-systems/199530-o2-amp-crc-diode-cap-heatsink-mods-6.html Pay no attention to it being for the O2 amp You would need a 4P switch to pull this off (simple bass boost on/off).

Happy Birthday!

You might be better off sticking with the 10V ref and using R7 of 700r (715 is closest e96 value) for 13.57Vdc. That is with a 2K R8. Only if Kevin thinks the 10V Vref will work fine for 13.5V. What are you powering that needs 13.5Vdc? Seems like an odd value... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just curious as I ordered a std. 4CP-601. I had trouble getting it mounted on the temporary piece of plexiglass I am using until I case the amp (ssdynalo) up. I see from the datasheet that the threaded portion is 6mm. What was ordered for the extended version of these? Longer threaded nose portion? Longer shaft? Both? Or was extended only available for the CP2511s?

^ This! What a good son Bryan