gepardcv

Hilarious:

My views on S7 and S8 fit neither the apologist nor the hater narratives, so I generally try to stay out of GoT discussions. That said, I think this Twitter multi-post does a pretty good job of explaining the pacing changes in the concluding seasons: https://mobile.twitter.com/DSilvermint/status/1125856091261136896

@tyrion: What strap is that?

Is the AOT resistor supposed to form a voltage divider with the 10k it's next to? Trying to figure out reasonable values for that resistor to order.

On the mini Dynalo, I never understood the pieces labeled "AOT". They're marked optional in the BOM, and no one seems to have soldered them. What do they do in the circuit? From the photos posted, most people populated the 10k resistors next to AOT. They aren't in the Mouser shopping list, but are they needed? I plan to use the on-board regulator (soldered with paste and hot air) if that makes a difference.

Thanks @MartinC700, but I just picked up 100 pieces from Digi-Key. As @shaihulud pointed out, it's finally back in stock. ?

Neither, sadly , but I’ve been into HP for a long time and read the published stageplay script when it first came out.

@TMoney: Try to finish the series and take a few weeks off from Harry Potter before seeing (or reading) Cursed Child. It's... different. In a good way IMO, but it's still good to let the main story settle in your mind before you jump into it.

I posted a question about this on the advice thread two years ago, and here’s a helpful reply:

Pretty sure you'll have major noise problems with the handwritten scheme. The other scheme is, I believe, @johnwmclean's, and it works in my experience, with just one change: I do not connect the pot grounds to anything. The diagram suggests connecting the pot to the star ground, and I found that causes noise. With regard to split PSU boards: yes, run each one to the star ground. Connect each amp board to whichever PSU board is closer. Also: some XLR sockets have extra pins connected to their bodies specifically to make pin 1 to chassis connections easier. Don't forget to file off anodizing at the star ground, as noted in that diagram. I also file off some anodizing on the (invisible) inside of every panel of the case to improve continuity everywhere, and always double-check continuity between all panels and earth. When you have finished adjusting the amp and like its balance and offset numbers, connect a headphone while not playing any audio. Spin the volume pot. With correct wiring, correct adjustment, and a good volume pot, you should have dead silence across its entire range.

If I had to guess, you had a cold solder joint somewhere, which worked for a while, but then cracked and maybe some stray metal fell and shorted something important. You should replace the entire board. After a major failure like this, it's more work than it's worth to determine which transistors (and even passive components) survived. Chin up! Everyone here has fried many many boards. You didn't get hurt, so that's a win!

Does anyone have 16 pieces of PZTA06? They're really out of stock everywhere now. I don't need PZTA56, as I managed to buy a bunch at Newark.

Finally getting around to building a Mini Dynalo, and ordering parts. What fuse(s) should I order?

The off-board heatsink version I built is marked 1.5, and the file in Kevin's archive is ssdynahibalsmtm.zip. It was the most recent revision in mid-2016, but I'm not aware of any changes since then. I don't have any extra boards left, though.

The How to Train Your Dragon 3 soundtrack is just outstanding (YT link below, but it's available on all streaming services). Not a single filler track.

HF moderators have deleted and edited some of the posts after they were up for a while (and will likely react faster now that that thread is on their radar), but, as far as I can tell, have left all substantive technical discussion intact. Silence from the hifiman rep — which is smart: if he can't win, he should ignore the discussion until it's forgotten. Though he might just be taking the weekend off. Really curious to see where this goes.

?

This is getting spicier! Hifiman uploaded two rebuttal videos to YouTube:

I read the rebuttal. The only substantive thing there is a photo showing (what the poster claims is) two 2M ballast resistors in series. Are they missing on your unit?

Is your HE60 stock or modded? I had a chance to hear one recently, and while I liked it overall, I found it quite bass-light. Wondering if there’s a fix for that.

Anna, have you considered the Campfire Audio Andromeda? I’m sure you can find a dealer near you with demo units. It’s my go-to whenever I’m not by my desk with the 007+Carbon rig. CA quality is great and customer service and warranty the best I’ve seen in audio. Way better than Stax’s stingy warranties for sure.

A distributor would not bad-mouth a manufacturer he sells. Nothing unreasonable there. That said, you should definitely stay away from Hifiman. The HE-500 and HE-6 were pretty good, but that’s it, unfortunately. PS: It’s a good idea to remove names and personally-identifiable information from screenshots.

I just use Neutrik RCA-XLR adapters (these: https://www.neutrik.com/en/product/na2mpmf), electrically equivalent to your option 1. Not sure how bad the 17' run of cable will be in practice in your case, but I don't hear any problems on my (much shorter) runs of cable.

To be clear, I want a set of Mini T2 boards along with a power supply set... was planning to use them together. Whether I'll want more sets will depend on price breaks.

I’m in for one full set, possibly more depending on price options.