luvdunhill

I'd guess those LEDs were dead to start with then (in the stuck battery voltage case).

All good questions. I have found that using a center tapped ground is preferable in the case of high current power amps, but in something this small, it's hard to say... the only advantage I could see if the layout was simplified by using this connection, and the loop between the transformer and first smoothing cap kept as short as possible... TVS are typically more precise than a MOV and they operate at different speeds. I remember reading about a combo gas bulb / MOV to get the best of both worlds there, but in this case paralleling made sense because of the much larger voltage that the gas bulb could handle... I'd suspect that one or the other would do just fine. Also, the capacitance of each might be of concern, I didn't check that.

Thanks Kevin! One more question. How stable is the chassis without the four screws that go through the front and back plate? I was thinking it would look nice without these, and since there are screws that secure the front and rear extrusions to the top and bottom, I figured it might be possible to omit these. I just don't have the ability to accurately tap holes in the end of my heat sinks..

that's it. Then there was a addendum / letter to the editor in the next issue that expanded the topic a bit.

wait, so you sent them a unit to review (for free) and they never returned it, because they're trying to sell it? wat? once it sells, who keeps the money?

would it be possible to get the "official" PCB width?

^ This

wimps try them in a BH circuit, they work and sound nice... haven't blown up either... Anyways, I'd probably just stick with the MOSFETs or design another CCS (pentode CCS for a SS amp anyone?).

for those that disagree, the Traeger solution is pretty much perfect, huh?

That would be my chief concern as well. The Traeger has a dial that is used to control the pellet feed, which controls the heat. The lower end models have three settings and the higher end models offer continuous adjustment. This weekend I smoked a pull-pork butt and a brisket at the low setting was dead on 200 for about 30 hours between the two meet cuts. I'm looking into grills at the moment as well. These two are on my list, as well as something that has an infrared heating option. I've narrowed these down to one of the Napoleon Grill models. At this point, I'm leaning towards one of the Napoleon's, but have to wait until some remodeling is finished, like yourself

I might have some used ones... would that work?

wow, I'd have to agree 20 is pretty much a minimum. I'd recommend just starting a thread where people can post their interest and holding tight until that number is reached. That's some serious outlay for something that chances are very large will never meet 20 to begin with.

Yes, MOVs. The downstream components are optimized for small spikes, not medium to large ones...

I'm sure kwkarth knows, ask him?

fixed:

actually, I wasn't totally joking about it being a good choice for the LCD-2. The "Arch" is Nelson Pass' take on a Hiraga Nemisis. Yup, still uses an output transformer. Very "SET sounding". Similar to this:

agreed. The minimum is "The Arch Nemesis"

oops... update: edit: FWCT note doesn't work

Mike, have you considered a Traeger pellet grill?

done

Makes a better CCS I've found when I've used it. The lower voltage is the issue for these guys..

update

just be careful, as I've run across some of these that didn't meet spec. and were most likely relabeled. I believe Spritzer did as well way back when. I'd insist on factory packaging and check the markings against the datasheet.

oops! nm

I sorta want to posit such a claim in the fuse-douche thread at HF and see what happens... thermal breakers and PTCs perhaps.