luvdunhill

I have a strange problem I cannot seem to fix. My mail is stuck. It just hangs like it's processing a very large attachment or something. When I check the status messages is shows that it's trying to retrieve mail... it seems to be transferring lots of stuff, but even if I let it sit for days, it never updates. I'm using gmail for this particular account. Any ideas?

probably cable wired out of phase

heh, do you really think that's the issue here? you don't know me very well then

Something like that. Smaller scale in our backyard. Doing decking now, just drove in 300 decking screws, going to Home Depot to see about getting a cheap corded drill to help out my aging battery packs. I'm hoping this squares things up a bit, then I need to work on leveling the ground a bit (of course that's what is off, not MY handiwork)...

Heh, I'm too embarassed to even ask questions at this point. The main problem I think is all my levels aren't level and my squares aren't square and my measuring tapes have the wrong numbers printed on them

You won't be able to tell a difference.

More of this. More fail. Even taking vacation tomorrow to produce more fail.

Inu: what about swapping C12 and C13? You mentioned that one of your pots you cannot adjust at all, or you get the squeeling.. i was just thinking about that when I noticed this asymmetry in the schematic.

started a playscape for the kids. Utter fail. I hope tomorrow goes better. I'm rather tired.

I've been on a recent polyester film cap testing spree (gasp) and am planning on using them in a phono preamp. Currently, I really like: Siemens / Epcos SilverCaps, which are rather unique in that they are not coated. Datasheet: http://www.epcos.com/inf/20/20/db/fc_2009/MKT_B32560_564.pdf Evox MMK, similar to some of the Wima lines, nice and compact sizes. Datasheet: http://www.kemet.com/kemet/web/homepage/kechome.nsf/file/MMK%20Series/$file/F3294_MMK.pdf In general I prefer polystyrene _box_ caps though, but am trying something different in this particular design.

point taken, but still, an amp that can take a 7308 but not a 6dj8? where do you draw the line, e188cc but not a 7308? something isn't right, IMHO. That being said, Inu are you using the same tube / manufacturer as Kevin? If so, that should be stated somewhere probably. oh, and of course I'll still try another tube, of course. heh. what MOSFETs typically blow?

as much as I'd like to blame Mikhail, if the original used 6DJ8, anything labeled 6DJ8 should work. The issue is that *some* 6DJ8's don't work, that's a totally different issue than trying to cram a 2c51 into a 12au7 socket.

um, no? let me try: Tubes first application was rectification and radio wave detection. (Germanium) transistors first application by the folks at Bell Labs was indeed an amplifier.

sorry to bother the thread with more trivial things... but, are there only 14 contacts needed in each umbilical? I get: | A | Grey | Bias | | M | Orange | +500 | | P | Black | Circuit Ground | | F | Blue | +250 | | M | Yellow | -560V | | N | Purple | -500V | | R | White | -260V | | K | G/Y | Chassis Ground | | G | Green | -12V | | E | Red | +12V | | C | Black | 6.3V 1 | | J | Black | 6.3V 1 | | D | Black | 6.3V 2 | | H | Black | 6.3V 2 |

I'm not liking the fact that a non-linearity in an input tube causes things to melt. How sensitive was the original T2 to this? I'd be surprised if Stax let something leave their factory that did this...

wait, is it your throwing arm? :)

wierd. very wierd. you still have one channel to play with though... double down and try the other channel the good pair of tubes? I'm assuming you have high enough Idss on the JFET and aren't running into the issue Inu did?

kinda looks like a shovel that way...

I'd guess those LEDs were dead to start with then (in the stuck battery voltage case).

All good questions. I have found that using a center tapped ground is preferable in the case of high current power amps, but in something this small, it's hard to say... the only advantage I could see if the layout was simplified by using this connection, and the loop between the transformer and first smoothing cap kept as short as possible... TVS are typically more precise than a MOV and they operate at different speeds. I remember reading about a combo gas bulb / MOV to get the best of both worlds there, but in this case paralleling made sense because of the much larger voltage that the gas bulb could handle... I'd suspect that one or the other would do just fine. Also, the capacitance of each might be of concern, I didn't check that.

Thanks Kevin! One more question. How stable is the chassis without the four screws that go through the front and back plate? I was thinking it would look nice without these, and since there are screws that secure the front and rear extrusions to the top and bottom, I figured it might be possible to omit these. I just don't have the ability to accurately tap holes in the end of my heat sinks..

that's it. Then there was a addendum / letter to the editor in the next issue that expanded the topic a bit.

wait, so you sent them a unit to review (for free) and they never returned it, because they're trying to sell it? wat? once it sells, who keeps the money?

would it be possible to get the "official" PCB width?

^ This