luvdunhill

has anyone ever used or considered a resettable thermal breaker in lieu of a fuse? Seems like they might sound better than a fuse ... ahem.

hrumph, it's this a little presumptuous?? Perhaps this "league" Rek's is referring to is the doctorate holding, Mensa card carrying, Future Knife Sharpeners of America?

here Craig, use this:

I was suggesting a way that external heatsinks might work, as Kevin mentioned the bracket construction might be a show stopper for some. Plenty of dynahis have been built with external devices..

Your mom did in fact. And there isn't a picture on this website, but a link that instructs a user's browser to fetch the image from another location. Completely different.

I just had a strange idea. What if you used the PCB itself as a drilling template that had the same diameter as the bit needed to drill out a #4-40. Drill one on each end of the board, tap those, screw them in, and then go down the board and drill the rest. Then you'd have to go back and enlarge the holes so a #4-40 could fit through them. If you didn't need to tap anything, it's even easier, just make them all #4-40 through hole and buy a bit the same diameter. Seems easy enough and you'd be able to generate a perfect angle bracket... The PCB I think would be thick enough to provide a nice template.

ok, even with copious amounts of beer, I don't get it. Why does it matter how the outputs are connected? Why do you need jumpers? It's a center-tapped output, so you can reference things however you want (++, +-, --). Perhaps the only consideration I can think of is how the ground plane is oriented... am I confused? Ari, yeah, the secondaries aren't connected so you have the option of 1 supply with 2V, 1 supply with 2I, or 2 supplies with separate secondaries, I have modeled it. The key is finding proper parts now. I'm looking at the path current compensated choke for the input side, like this: http://www.schaffner.com/components/en/_pdf/Datasheet%20RN_series%20e18.pdf I need 47-100mH here on the input side. On the output side, I'm still playing with the numbers. Yeah, they're typically wound on the same core, like this:

Why are you worried about the output resistors? In a failure condition you want them to go due to overvoltage and in the normal case they don't drop anywhere near that voltage???

It helps smooth the supply and/or isolates the ground. In the end this can be either an inductor (common mode or choke) or a resistor.

ah I see why I was confused, I have an error. heh. The bottom supply is the negative supply but the bridge is not drawn right. So, you think people might want two positive supplies or two negative supplies? This would probably mean that I couldn't use a common ground plane. edit: oooh you're talking about a single negative supply, right? yeah, finally catching up with you, that would indeed be cool, but that doesn't require flipping... (I think) just use the bottom circuit and jumper the secondaries properly. I'll going to be supporting a SMD Schottky bridge and probably TO-220 type diodes. The bridge (610-CBRHDSH2-100TR13) isn't really flippable (but a very cool part), so I'll have to figure out if that will require special care.

RN60 will derate to values suitable for this Edit: which resistors are you worried about getting even close to this limit?

So, the options would be single voltage with secondaries in series, single voltage with secondaries in parallel, or dual voltage... Should I worry about polarity? No regulator, as the idea is that putting it here will be inferior to having it right next to the circuit. Also, plenty of uses where this is enough, like digital or maybe even where a CCS is employed to isolate the rails on the main boards.

yeah, oops. let's say "filtered" or CLRC? heh..

I have a few uses for a simple, regulated power PCB that supports a number of different ~25VA PCB mount transformers with a bit of filtering on each side of the transformer. I'm trying to nail down the schematic a bit and wanted to see if there was any advice out there

Is this change applicable to all four supplies?

No DIY shills? Really? Other than the fact that they work for free, the only difference is they aren't usually assholes

I'd still like to find a way to make it. What's your schedule looking like Steve?

There's a thread on HF about them. Too low brow for this thread unfortunately...

Heading to ND. Perhaps ya'll will think it's exotic if I don't spell it out for you

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SmXqp-0p-48

That looks nice Steve, highly reviewed. I have no idea if I'd need any accessories with that though... any idea?

group buy?

I'm looking for something small to put in my garage for blowing dust around, airing up tires, and perhaps using a small air tool with (finish nailer or something). Small and maintenance free would be nice. I've seen a couple pancakes by Husky and noticed that now Woodcraft sells a Woodriver unit that is relatively cheap. Budget is <$150. I've looked occasionally on Craigslist for something used, but nothing that is at all "new" has popped up... recommendations?

Northstar 192mk I is a good idea, why not start there?