luvdunhill

yes! One end goes into the IEC socket the other goes to the toroid. There is a timer that switches in the large resistor in series then removes it. Also, provides filtering of minimal sort. Similar in concept to this Soft-Start Circuit For Power Amps I cannot find them on Ebay anymore, but that's where I got it, preassembled. Works great in fact.

buy two pairs and sell one? heh. It's one of the best performing tweeters out there. I would pair them with these: https://www.madisound.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=925 I was hoping Naaman would snap these up, he mentioned a while back having a pair of the above. I'd be willing to work a deal, 1/2 price?

I plan on removing the pics above once something is sold. So, no pic, no availability. The text will remain. Perhaps this isn't clear

thanks guys. ujamerstand, feel free to send an offer. Perhaps you need both? I do discounts

ok, I have plenty of stuff that needs to go. Perhaps you do too. I'm open to all offers and if you're patient, I'll probably just give it away. Once this stuff goes, I have another list... so.. no prices, please make an offer. Pair of unopened, and unused ports. These are the best ports money can buy I suppose: Measurement Mic Preamp boards and Zen Headphone amp boards: A collection of Brown Dog adapters: Turntable motor pulley: Random component video cable: Mogami headphone cable: Onzow Zerodust, barely used: Twisted Pear Audio Ballsie, first generation I believe: Chinese Softstart Board, works great: A pair of mute delay and offset protection boards (http://www.amb.org/audio/epsilon12/): A pair of 30mH inductors: A pair of matched 6.8uF Wima caps for a LNMP (http://tangentsoft.net/elec/lnmp/): Serpac project case: New, never used Box project case: Pair of Vifa XT25TG tweeters: Pair of 14 awg, 12mH Jantzen inductors: Elpac 24VDC linear regulated supply: Plitron and Avel 22VAC x 2 toroids A couple high quality switches: Wallin Jig v2 for speaker measurement: Twisted Pear Audio four pole relay board A Chinese tube heater delay board, with indicator LED: Simple adjustable LM317 supply (http://tangentsoft.net/elec/tread/); A Bantam USB DAC (http://www.diyforums.org/BantamDAC/): Few random caps, including some Mundorf Silver and Oil and some nice large valued Solens: Four diamond buffers, with "pins" to drop into a 6DIP buffer like BUFXXX (http://diamondstar.de/dDB_overview.html):

yes. I hope they'll work with my stands, if not we might want to rig up a scrap piece of wood to help out.

The harshness probably comes from the "last ditch effort before I sell everything" mentality. It doesn't work that way, it's not about the end it's about how you got there.

are these the limited edition JHI6 ? If not, you're missing out.

JHI6's?

cryoed JH13?

I'd vote Option 1.

It involves a Millett design, but not the soundcard interface (though I have it, and Doug is correct)

working a more sophisticated setup and will definitely run it on this amp. Also, I might bring it around and give a few others a listen, Yaniger, Millett, Jan Didden, etc. at an upcoming geek fest. Don't have any Grados to wow them with, I don't think we allow those to cross the border into Texas.... if they were say to show up in my mailbox though in clandestine packaging...

Hey Tom, do those heatsinks you included for the top come in an unanodized version? also, are there any other unpopulated PCBs out there?

I'd be surprised if even Biggy went to this extreme I agree with Steve more or less on this one. Except for the part about the Sigma being remotely good.

3.25V == 2 x 630-HLMP-6000 ==

http://www.hagtech.com/pdf/snubber.pdf

I'd probably cross that HiVi over at 1khz, just as a gut feeling. I'd have to measure it of course. I really like this driver, but it's in somewhat a different price range: https://www.madisound.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=45_238&products_id=1353 It's a sort of psuedo-TL concept.

Is snot

No it isn't

the issue would be refraction at the midrange and tweeter edges. The flanges really have to be perfectly flush with the surface. Also, the different acoustic absorption of the material would probably effect the crossover a fair bit.

same person that called the SR-007 dark probably

yeah, I was thinking 1/64" as well, assuming exactly 1/2" bar. However, I have no idea what the tolerances on aluminum bar are.

Hey, I'm having a slot milled that will accept a piece of aluminum bar that is nominally 0.5" wide. How wide should I have the slot milled in order to ensure that the bar can be easily removed? I'm not sure what the tolerances are on aluminum bar and not really sure what extra width to account for that doesn't require a hammer to (re)move the piece.

Steve, perhaps they are these cabinets? [url=http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=302-741]Dayton MTMC-0.75BK 0.75 ft