luvdunhill

yup, everything is isolated. The no load test went fine. I had no idea how long the delay would be, so that added a bit of anticipation, but other than that the rails came up to 252V and 498V. I had +12V and -15V, but I'm assuming that's because there is no load on that -15V at all... before you ask, yeah at first glance, the part number was correct.. heh. tomorrow I'll see about mounting the heat sinks and getting the loads ready.

Looks like a quad two. Bog standard NPN BJT transistor...

didn't quite get to it last night, it will be waiting for me when I get to it tonite or tomorrow...

yeah, I'll have things attached to the bracket and will make it as quick as possible. For dual primary transformers, J3 is 1+3 (120VAC), J1 is 1+4 and 3+6 (120VAC), then for J4-J6 one winding goes across 1 and 3 and the other across 4 and 6?

ok, getting closer. Any reason firing one side of my PSU up with no load and just the devices properly coupled to the angle bracket would be a bad idea? sorta a quick sniff test to see what the voltages look like on one side. Then I'd bolt it to the heat sink (haven't drilled it yet) and then do the same test under load? Seems like there wouldn't be a whole lot of heat on it and I could measure it rather quickly if I had a meter setup and what not...

Typically, are there original "mods" to the Tchaik? Says with "author's edits".. Dunno how many cadenzas are floating around, but being too original seems a bit risky.

86G7? wtf? did you try the old tubes, does the amp/headphone still work with those?

ah, I assumed that the center of the switches would be different on the two models... guess not! thanks!

Nate, any idea where the center of the slot is? That's the last dimension I need before starting on my front panels.

looking at Kevin's pics, he goes the dual mono approach, notice the splitting on the PSU DC output block. I think I'd rather split on the amp side, with a dedicated AC umbilical... far less wires between the chassis'. What do the other builders plan on doing?

ok, this is probably a dumb question. Are you guys splitting up the heater wires in one umbilical and the DC wires in the other? This approach sorta makes more sense to me than trying to be dual mono for the sake of being dual mono...

By focus do you mean autozoom? Yeah, it's setup as a UVC cam.

Is it still the case that the Waxman estate are extortionists of the highest degree? Also, what about Hubay's take, care for it at all?

The focus does indeed work. The whole thing works quite well. I don't have any built-in cameras, so I cannot comment on that.

Win!

Does "fun" mean shitty? I'm confused

best advice I've heard in quite some time

I bought a 2010 GT Traffic 3.0 Step-Through Women's Bike for my wife through REI. I hope it's decent and the price wasn't a total ripoff... she's been bugging me about a bike for years now, so I'm glad to mark that one off the list.

I use this Cam on my Mac (interestingly enough, a black hole didn't immediately appear under my desk like you would have expected): https://www.microsoft.com/hardware/digitalcommunication/productdetails.aspx?pid=008

no, buy neither

I'll hang up the necessary good luck symbol and take pics for you

One man's steeliness is another man's detail

They will all work well for the front end, it's not picky in terms of Idss. I'm guessing Kevin won't support the Toshiba parts on his PCB, so that leaves the Linear Systems parts. I believe the A parts show less noise. There was an article in AudioExpress than confirms this, if my memory holds.

Hm, quick before-dinner check says you need 19 VDC to operate a 24 VDC relay. So, I have the dropout of a LM317 and bog standard diode drop for rectification... So, perhaps 20 VAC, I think 18 VAC is cutting it too close... Perhaps a Hammond 229C40 then? edit: one more question. What's the preferred orientation when using two of the above. Side-by-side on the long dimension, or the short dimension?

I'm getting some PCBs made up for an active rumble filter. It's a sallen-key 3rd order with an 18 hz corner that results in -18dB at 8Hz and -.2dB at 20Hz with group delay under 20 ms. Cost will be $8 plus $2 shipping to the US. It's 100% SMD construction. I'll attach a schematic. They'll go quick, so let me know soon. [ATTACH=CONFIG]3546[/ATTACH] edit: dunno wtf the forum software is doing, but it seems to be auto resizing?