luvdunhill

yeah, that's partly what I'm referring to. I'm wondering if the thermal junctions present in a normal case don't actually help lower junction temperature though. For example, in this design, the air around the fins provides a much higher thermal impedance than say the bottom of the case. But since it's all one large block of aluminum, it seems that natural convection to air would be sort of a "last resort". Also, if you've ever heated up a block of aluminum, you know it takes forever to cool down via natural convection. I'm wondering if the internal temperature will rise dramatically as well, despite any attempts to add holes for natural heat convection.

what's the maximum size screen that would make sense here?

like these? [ATTACH=CONFIG]3496[/ATTACH]

Do you have any way of doing some sort of thermal imaging on the thing while it is running? I'd like to place the contrary bet that you'll end up with a higher junction temperature when it's all said and done.

That's why you by a second F1J when the time comes, obviously

the idea would be that you could account for the box losses (via gaps at the seams, or not using the exact same wall covering / port geometry / crossover volume as the original design) by tuning the port. also, it's possible to track down box resonances using the same method.

What if the remote controlled a servo that that rotated the pot?

I've personally heard the Exemplar's being embarrassed by some rather modest DIY horn projects

Do you have the ability to measure the impedance to tune the port?

if you find it and don't like it, I'll take it and cover the expense.

I like the Ashton tobacco as well. Did you ever try Dunhill Royal Yacht? I'm not sure if you can still get it, but you might like it.

yeah, the Rogue / BAT remotes are single piece with a removable back I believe

yes! can't wait to chop off that piece of shit viablue connector no communication what so ever from Null Audio, both about a custom length (pre-sale) and complaining that it didn't have the connector I specifically ordered (post-sale)...

so, assuming such a touch panel showed up... would the designer be able to commission an "at-material-cost" billet titanium remote? heh

A

We'll just have too see who sees sparks first, we are at just about the same point

and D2, D5, D8 and D11 are wrong in the PSU, should be zeners

I would go the spike route personally. Perhaps use some threaded inserts with a threaded spike. I always glue the baffle and have bonded material to the walls and even added interior cavities without problem. The fact that your joints are perfect might further underscore the need to glue the baffle if you're concerned at all about airtightedness.

Not that I'm volunteering to plug it into my gear, but that would be an ideal test scenario, IMHO

$300 worth of SMD parts. Those Vishay TNPW resistors can really add up.

wow, that's very nice!

scary indeed.... what value fuse are you using? didn't see it on the schematic and a search for "fuse" on this thread returned zero results...

Is ACSS directly compatible with Krell's CAST?

yeah, I have a little setup for BH and KGSS PSU testing I can use. I'm only doing one supply at a time anyways, so looks like maximum 25W (500V @ 48mA which is 60% of maximum 80mA). I I was just more surprised when you said water (thought process was: waters' conductive, right? wait, no it's not but the materials are...)