luvdunhill

Going to visit a friend in a couple weeks and would like to bring "something special". This is a lot to ask but anyone have anythig they could shoot my way? I might have a nice treat from Reks, but wanted something a bit more contraband

justin != kevin gilmore

aaahh. I had it turned around in my head with the toroids at the front of the chassis. Any reason that wouldn't work? It would avoid running the outputs back through the toroids... edit: probably the output umbilicals wouldn't fit against the caps...

started working on my PSU. I have a few questions - which way should the screw connectors face? Perhaps it is obvious, but I wanted to double check as those are a pain to remove. I looked at some of Inu's photos, but didn't find a good one of the entire thing wired. Perhaps Kevin has a picture somewhere in his usual detail? - how critical is R50 (290K on the 300v power supply)? I'm assuming this sets the output voltage? Would 300K work? - perhaps it would be worthwhile to add a note on the schematic that showed a recommended value for the unmarked power rating resistors. For example, the 300K resistors used for the capacitor stacking probably should be more than a 1/2W I'm guessing? - what current would you recommend testing the supplies at after they are built? I was assuming the current limited value? I'd like to order some test resistors, that's why I ask. I don't have any supercooling abilities, so I'll probably test one supply at a time then hope for the best from there. - I'm not sure if anyone has fired up their board that isn't using the SumR transformers (Craig?) I'm assuming the 47 ohm heater resistors might need to be adjusted?

I think it's time to play with the Vf of the cathode LEDs, just need to drag out the LED box and get a good jig to measure Vf at the proper current and voltage. Any I/V recommendations Doug?

I've made the change and found that it sounds significantly better for the headphones that are at the 80%+ mark on the volume dial.

I forewent my usual sensibilities and did 5 minutes of "research" and bought a Brother HL-3070CW printer. I hope it doesn't suck.

RB301 to DIN conversion: [ATTACH=CONFIG]3441[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]3444[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]3445[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]3443[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]3442[/ATTACH]

ok, well if you decide to do it, it's rather simple and the noise increase was unnoticeable from what I heard.

Deepak, do you have Digipete's Pearl? If not, you can eek some more gain out of it. Anyone know what the hex key size is to adjust the RB301 arm lift? I don't have one that says "damn small" in my set...

I should take back my .. Perhaps the Crump cord can be used to improve the old meter? Win-win?

how exactly are you measuring that? be as detailed as you care to be.

all good points and I think I've learned what I need to here

<pedant>well, not really, I would assume Stereophile might be the originator of this concept for "amplifiers"</pedant>

I might slightly prefer the K1000 with 300 ohm switch and WE jumpers. Its a different flavor for sure... Plan on trying new CCS current this weekend as well...

Firewall most likely

damn, got to keep up with the Toole's. I'm in for 16 too.

I never noticed this before, but there is a REF102C part that is even more improved over the B version. Perhaps a new part, I'm not sure.

Sherlock. First episode was pretty good I thought.

nah, it will be real easy Ken. I bet there's a good upcharge for the parts and the assembly of the crossover though.

heh, didn't open it Here's a "before pic": [ATTACH=CONFIG]3418[/ATTACH]

Kevin: I'm curious, why do you have to use a separate vendor for polishing? Is this prep work not something the anodizer can usually take care of?

Just noticed some odd with the two original tubes that I got from Tom. Anyone notice anything strange in the pic? [ATTACH=CONFIG]3415[/ATTACH]

yeah those are pretty cool. I've seen then in some of the street stalls.