luvdunhill

yawn... when do I get to borrow these again?

have you guys tried using a 6N15P, ECC91?

bigger caps in the CLC? I have a small bit of lessemf I can send your way that you can drop in and re-run your tests. Just PM me your address if you'd like to try it out.

drop a soldering iron on it? terminate it backwards? who knows...

Tom: What's the height of the PCB that you used to layout the panels? I need to get the y coordinate of the center of the red switch, to make sure it fits. I double checked all measurements on the diagram and they look good. The one measurement that was a bit off was the x coordinate of the pot and the antirotation nub. This could be due to slop in the slot, but I get about 1.5mm less than the numbers you have. Could anyone double check one of these two for me?

[dusty]com'on guys, all he did is post in the wrong forum...[/dusty]

action shot [ATTACH=CONFIG]3347[/ATTACH] Doug: With respect to the noise, you could try a low ESR cap for C5 (tantalum) perhaps?

is that you Pete?

dibs? heh. looks really cool.

my cheap IR thermometer is amazingly inaccurate it's more of an ambient temperature meter if anything...

with heat sinks?

whatever handbrakes drop down select box that says "iphone" produces? HandBrake I've only done this once, but it was literally three clicks..

what's the fun in having insulated parts then?

<grawk>handbrake</grawk>

.. plus the bracket, plus the interface between the bracket and the heat sink, plus the anodizing (if any) on the heat sink, plus ambient differences say between Iceland and Texas, etc... I think that 22W/27W will end up a bit lower. Even 100C is pushing a TO-220 package, lets say 75C. Anyways, its good to see the calculations

don't forget the thermal grease for the plastic package

that's my fault Nate. The two heat sinks are available at Digikey, I'm not sure about Mouser. Make sure you don't get that crappy version that TPA uses that has the three holes in in, one of which is conviently placed right in the middle of the device Anyways, the recommended parts are: 8 1 HS346-ND HEATSINK TO-220 W/PINS 1.5"TALL 0 1.49000 $1.49 9 2 HS216-ND HEATSINK TO-126 VERT MNT SLIP-ON 0 0.41000 $0.82

I reached the same conclusion as Craig. I didn't look for a TO-247 or TO-3P version, as I'd assume they wouldn't fit...

actually a capacitor divider might be more appropriate. I'm at the same place you are, in that I find my tools lacking for testing high voltage amps.

I think just purchasing the insulated package version directly from Mouser would be the way to go, seeing how you'll already be placing a larger order with them.

did you just quote yourself?

scrolling sucks on that thing... screen looks pretty unresponsive.

Two Jordan JX92 full range drivers. Decided to go with the unshielded version... specs: Jordan JX92S specifications

I can supply you with some if you cannot find them elsewhere. These are a "standard" with many of the Borbely designs, used to cascode the input JFETs to "enable" them to work at a higher voltage.

interesting. So, does this extra room (if push all the way toward the back like you said) actually cause any issues? Seems that the pot would be fine if you add washer between the pot itself and the panel, same the TRS jack... the switch shouldn't need a washer at all...