luvdunhill

gah, have to run. What I'm meaning to say is, don't assume that H -> F and G -> B. G and H could be connected to the trafo. Obviously they have to be connected I'll look at it tonite, but I have a feeling Beefy is onto something similar So, can you confirm when you toggle the switch, that all of the switches shown in the diagram move together? It might be helpful if we know that when the switch is in the 110V position all are open and when it's in the the 220V position, all are closed for example.

I agree with Beefy... don't assume H to F is jumpered and G to B is jumpered. Use these as additional connections. Seems possible to me, but don't have time to verify...

oh and one more thing happened this week.. I got a promotion As deserving as I am of course, I have a feeling it has something to do with inflation before the HP acquisition finally goes through.. seems that a lot of people will get "demoted", due to the stricter requirements, and this is a way to try and even things out. For example, I think currently Director level employees can get away with 1 or 2 managers reporting to them, and under HP the minimum is quite a bit more.

you say that, but I have just the room for you in fact, even if you're not my mother-in-law and I'm not sure what mpwi is getting at, I'm not Asian dude, and the kitchen doesn't open into that room Reminds me of a story, but my laptop battery is now dea

heh, when the switch is closed, it looks like A-F and a-e are all shorted? WTF? Is that diagram indeed correct? If not, I have an idea on how the switches would have to be configured for it to work. Can you map out A-F and a-e when the switch is in either position?

Also, put an offer on a new house There is a uber-prime location upstairs for a 2-ch rig that I have 0% chance of commandeering. So, I suppose I need to find out how quickly I can get the kids off to boarding school. Nice thing is, there are 2 other still pretty sweet locations that I'm jockeying for. One of which, is a nice long rectangle shape.. it's completely open on one side, which I'm trying to figure out how to deal with. You can kinda see it from this picture, it's the room in the background: The wall across from the window you see in the background is solid, it doesn't open into the kitchen. I'm thinking the gear will go against that wall.

Amateurs use Fastener Express or Bolt Depot. Pros use McMaster-Carr. All three get the job done.

Humidifier might help.

Ah, well thanks to whomever ordered the hit then

Looks like the parcel locker where we fetch our mail was broken into, and I had a key in my mail slot Not really sure what was in the parcel locker, so I'm not sure how pissed I should be. Anyone know who to go to about such a thing? Getting the USPS on the phone is a fail, so I'm hoping that isn't the answer. I sure hope there wasn't a secret plot to buy me a HD800 that was scheduled to arrive today

those look like LSK389 in de're

Nice Nate. I really like the adjustable nickless squeeze type strippers. The "depth" gauge is an added bonus, which allows to to strip exactly the same amount of each wire. They aren't cheap, but here's the one I have:

I'm interested as well. My question would be, when people say the JH don't need an amp, and sound great out of an iPhone, would they say the same about the TF10? Because, honestly, I think the TF10 sound 100% better amped and sound rather blah without decent amplification. That to say, it's still a issue of quality amplification. Out of the Pico, I was pretty unimpressed with the TF10 for example.

it's not really a question of which 5-pin connector, IMHO, but yeah, they are rather nice.

yeah, that was pretty much my suggestion. As long as they don't think those 5-pin XLR jacks near the baseboards in the fancy hotel conference rooms aren't headphone outs, you're probably good.

Dan C. is the go to guy for the inside scoop, if there is any... I'm interested as well

Thanks Ari. If the amp has outputs at ground potential there is one snag, if I'd like to avoid some sort of of "balanced" / "single-ended" input selector switch. Thus, all four outputs would be active. With regard to adapters, there was almost fail at the DFW meet due to one of these, I believe the LD mk6 has one of these custom adapters. I still cannot figure out how it worked...

Dusty: Yeah, that's right. So far. So, you're asking the same question on the amp side. The L/R- is unterminated. I definitely don't want a switch there. So, in summary the problem is with a 4-pin jack, or even two 3-pin jacks, that are used on the output of a four channel design, you cannot "convert" this using any combination of adapters, custom or otherwise, for use by a single ended terminated headphone. You need a ground reference.

does downloading all PMs to a text file and using grep/notepad/whatever count as a feature?

wait, I thought about this... even if you can do this (which by the way, I thought of a case where you could do this, a concertina output 'cause I did this in my preamp, but not much good at driving much of anything), how would this work with a single 4-pin jack? just because you can short the minus to ground, doesn't mean you can short them to each other and get a usable reference and, Dusty I just mean use a single jack. You need a ground reference for the single ended headphone option. Adapters are fair game. All this to say, I think finding an isolated four pin jack with a separate shell connection is the way to go...

no room. Top is completely covered too

I only have room for one jack

I'd be worried about noise in that case. If the shell cannot be isolated from the outer connector, it could be a source of ground loops and other nasties. Why not go through the trouble of supporting single ended headphones?

right. otherwise, there isn't a way to connect a single ended headphone to a 4-pin jack.

heh, you're quick. I cannot see why that wouldn't work, but then again, I could imagine designing for that condition..