luvdunhill

Looks like my company is in for a bit of reorganization, in the 11th hour before the HP acquisition closes in a few days. I have wind of a bit of it, and I'm not pleased...

3 Oaks Syrian in a Dunhill group 5:

can anyone here still get the small swan vesta matches? The local place that carried them recently stopped, and I'd like to grab a bunch of them...

I compared them at a home theater store, not a general big box store. They had separate rooms and various setups in each. I'll probably never use it in low light situations, so that was a big factor for me.

I compared them a few times and found the LED to look better in higher light environments. The edge streaking aside of course, which didn't particularly bother me.

yes siree.. now, what about 3 ch. topology, that implies the manufacturer can sell 1.5x as much stuff?

cool. Those features look very useful. So, is there a LED version?

heh, good point! I'll try and be more careful in the future!

So, I have a few questions. I've pretty much decided on the Samsung 46" LED 120 Hz models, but haven't nailed down the exact revision yet. Any recommendation on these? My second question, is I have a ~50" wide by 2' or so deep alcove that I want to place the TV. Other than restricted viewing angle, which wouldn't be a huge issue, any cons for recessing the TV back into the niche? I would think this would be a benefit in terms of limiting the amount of light that can hit the glass and cause glare and what not.

cool. Cannot wait! Oh, and Mr Hansen seems to always be raising the bar as well

Amazon.com: Cooking (9781580087896): James Peterson: Books

I've been down this road myself. I've learned a lot with this project, and can provide a few comments and observations, that might be helpful (probably not though). First, I'm assuming you're using the Hitachi devices. The problem with the Renesas devices are poorer compliments compared to the original Hitachi devices. How do I know? Well, I had 1500 of them and about 3% of those are suitable for the Blowtorch clone. Yes, this was the (only) up side benefit of measuring all those devices for the DynaFET. In a somewhat related complaint, I had to use a distortion analyzer to dial in this circuit, in order to make up for the fact these devices aren't great compliments. Second, I used high Idss input devices, which are almost impossible to source. Once you can get a hold of the new production Linear Systems devices, this will help this. Third, I wish the circuit could swing more volts... that's my number one complaint. As you know, the limitation is the input devices, and a cross between Curl and Borbely (cascode JFETs) would be fantastic modification and would be my number one recommendation... yeah, I'd love to see this, please?! Fourth, relays suck for attenuators. I'd recommend using CMOS switches or reed relays, or just drive the mechanical switch directly. Fifth, the secret sauce here is the servo (I'm sure yours is better than mine) and keeping the thing thermally stable. To this end, a way to couple the devices together would be way cool and in my opinion, an important thing to consider in the layout. Perhaps like this: Sixth, I think it would be cool to do a limited edition run of boards made from Teflon or Arlon, ala Borbely... ya, that would be sweet. Also, could you include the 0.2" pitch needed for Caddock MK132? In my circuit, these are by far the best sounding resistors. Seventh, please include a Vendetta phono stage as well. k thx bye.

nate, any updates?

that's the hard part huh...

so, how will the two fields look on the badge? Is the username in like big letters and the badge name in small letters underneath?

Don, I was wondering, where would you start tweaking these: Ortho headphones from Planar speakers - Head-Fi: Covering Headphones, Earphones and Portable Audio TIA!

Nate I don't have Internet access now, but I was thinking of trying the magclamps (?) that woodcraft sells to apply downward pressure to the material. I'm not sure if they will work well, but seems like they might. When I've seen people rip aluminum panels with a good saw, it almost seems like no effort at all. I talked a good bit with barrredboss on eBay and got a few tips from him, but he sees no reason why this setup won't work with even 3-4" material (heatsinks) and get a smooth cut..

It's the 14" Powermatic that Woodcraft sells, which sells for the same price as the above. It's definitely geared towards woodworking though, and in the end I wanted the slower blade speeds...

ooh oops: JET Tools - It's a Jet, but it's part of their metalworking line, not the woodworking. However, like I said, it can run the blade fast enough to accomodate wood (this faster for wood and slower for metal is some strange paradox that I have to admit I don't really understand, but hey...) I'm sad because one I looked at the Powermatic line, I could have gotten cooler features for the same price.

Changed my mind a few times on the bandsaw, kept wanting lower and lower speeds, as well as the ability to do wood. So, the final choice (just ordered) can do 39, 57, 78, 107, 142, 196, 278, 3300 speeds. I had to give up some of the cooler features (chip blower, etc.) that some of the other saws offered, but in the end I think I'll be pleased with the flexibility in blade speed.

Ha! Better than a thumb drive I suppose...

"hard" drives? More like a stack of floppies

Try the 3676 instead. It kills on the kgss...

Moving. Congratulated myself on negotiating $1 per box flat rate... Fortunately for me, they never put two and two together when there was also 8 8 foot bookcases also on the quote yup, something had to come off those shelves...