luvdunhill

just curious, can you provide a justification on why this would be the case? I would have agreed with you, until I setup a test jig that disproved my theory

AudiogoN ForSale: Goldpoint Mini V in a

Guess where that 4-pin female XLR came from It now has a 4-pin male XLR on it, and will ultimately go on the Fostex T10s.

well, if that person just took one for the team, it would probably help clear the street pretty damn quickly, ya know, being a fire and all.

yup, this is definitely a bug Nate. It used to work.

All all GMA speakers still 1st order / phase coherent designs, or have they moved away from that design philosophy?

I'm surprised that there isn't a way to make the changes permanent in this "router" that you speak of. Short of figuring out how to do that, you're choices are pretty limited, to perhaps inserting another firewall somewhere in the chain, or using another computer to DoS his XBOX If it's the audio that's bothering you, well, this is a headphone forum after all.

Probably is running in class AB the whole time

Those look like EAR in fact... Note the recommended uses in the link I posted above...

Doug: Unfortunately, I don't have a cheap alternative. What I do have is a really cool product that is expensive Check out EAR Isoloss Sandwhich Mounts. Here's a link to the EAR/3M website: http://www.earsc.com/images/Category/img1-388.gif Percy sells them on page 19 on his catalog, but it's possible to order them direct for about half that, IIRC. Not sure if they will still sell direct, but I have purchased Isodamp sheets in bulk for EAR as well as other nifty things.

Naaman: Ivy II? That's sooo last month man, the Ivy III is where it's at

amateur

gah, have to run. What I'm meaning to say is, don't assume that H -> F and G -> B. G and H could be connected to the trafo. Obviously they have to be connected I'll look at it tonite, but I have a feeling Beefy is onto something similar So, can you confirm when you toggle the switch, that all of the switches shown in the diagram move together? It might be helpful if we know that when the switch is in the 110V position all are open and when it's in the the 220V position, all are closed for example.

I agree with Beefy... don't assume H to F is jumpered and G to B is jumpered. Use these as additional connections. Seems possible to me, but don't have time to verify...

oh and one more thing happened this week.. I got a promotion As deserving as I am of course, I have a feeling it has something to do with inflation before the HP acquisition finally goes through.. seems that a lot of people will get "demoted", due to the stricter requirements, and this is a way to try and even things out. For example, I think currently Director level employees can get away with 1 or 2 managers reporting to them, and under HP the minimum is quite a bit more.

you say that, but I have just the room for you in fact, even if you're not my mother-in-law and I'm not sure what mpwi is getting at, I'm not Asian dude, and the kitchen doesn't open into that room Reminds me of a story, but my laptop battery is now dea

heh, when the switch is closed, it looks like A-F and a-e are all shorted? WTF? Is that diagram indeed correct? If not, I have an idea on how the switches would have to be configured for it to work. Can you map out A-F and a-e when the switch is in either position?

Also, put an offer on a new house There is a uber-prime location upstairs for a 2-ch rig that I have 0% chance of commandeering. So, I suppose I need to find out how quickly I can get the kids off to boarding school. Nice thing is, there are 2 other still pretty sweet locations that I'm jockeying for. One of which, is a nice long rectangle shape.. it's completely open on one side, which I'm trying to figure out how to deal with. You can kinda see it from this picture, it's the room in the background: The wall across from the window you see in the background is solid, it doesn't open into the kitchen. I'm thinking the gear will go against that wall.

Amateurs use Fastener Express or Bolt Depot. Pros use McMaster-Carr. All three get the job done.

Humidifier might help.

Ah, well thanks to whomever ordered the hit then

Looks like the parcel locker where we fetch our mail was broken into, and I had a key in my mail slot Not really sure what was in the parcel locker, so I'm not sure how pissed I should be. Anyone know who to go to about such a thing? Getting the USPS on the phone is a fail, so I'm hoping that isn't the answer. I sure hope there wasn't a secret plot to buy me a HD800 that was scheduled to arrive today

those look like LSK389 in de're

Nice Nate. I really like the adjustable nickless squeeze type strippers. The "depth" gauge is an added bonus, which allows to to strip exactly the same amount of each wire. They aren't cheap, but here's the one I have: