luvdunhill

FTFW

meh, part of it works (TTL output, sweep, and counter) part of it doesn't (main output and DC offset). bah. On TTL output, the performance is nice. Time to contact the seller and start negotiations.

Sweet, I'm an ass? I've been ignoring this thread until now ..

finger nail polish, or uber-cryo-milspec conformal coating (conveniently available at Fry's)

I think the part recommendations in the thread are pretty solid. What says the Dig'?

They could also be "non authorized", meaning the tooling was stolen or what have you.

sounds like an advertisement for a male strip club

USBtinyISP AVR Programmer Kit (USB SpokePOV Dongle) [v2.0] - $22.00 : Adafruit Industries, Unique & fun DIY electronics and kits It's been a while, so I decided to learn something different. I've done Winbond and PIC programming, so hopefully AVR programming is like riding a bike I'd rather just push asm to the uC, as that's what I do in my day job, but looks like I'll have to deal with programming languges

Hey, if you guys like "Burn Notice", you might want to check out "White Collar": Drama Television Series - White Collar TV Series - USA Network -White Collar Pretty good so far...

nope, agreed. I see statements like that all the time and that's how I usually interpret them at least

maybe the implication is the pico bests a y1, but not a y2

agreed, that was cold.

hey, did we ever settle up on those long RCA cables? I cannot remember

one tip is to heat the board up with a heat gun before doing ground plane joints. Also, buy my Hakko Blue, that will help as well (i.e. use a nice big tip)

Is there an easy way to search all of craigslist? If I use Google's site:craigslist.org, a lot of the listings are expired. If I use Craigslist, it seems to only return local results...

cool! I prefered the SOHA II to the Bijou when I compared the two. The SOHA II is an excellent ortho amplifier as well, as it has plenty of drive to it.

hm, where's my pick gun ... yeah, that's cheating I know, but..

8 printed circuit boards

heh.

I've always wondered, is there a rule of thumb for hole much larger the hole should be than the component lead?

Between these choices, I might choose the VPI... but the upper-end NG I think are nicer than the VPI RCMs. I have a 2.5FI and have compared with the various VPI and I think it does a much better job.. Not all that scientific of tests, but cleaning a record with a VPI, playing it, then cleaning with the NG, then playing it

My suspicions, and they are purely suspicions, is that lead free solder was used at too low of a temperature. I'd have to see the other side of the joint to be sure that adequate wicking was taking place, but this would be my concern.

well, it basically wouldn't dial in at the proper tracking force. Looks like you're good then. enjoy!

in general, you are applying too much solder. The joints should have a volcano shape. Have you powered it up yet?

welcome to the world of line contact stylus