luvdunhill

50? Quit dicking around man!

TOCOS 4PDT switch on/off/on, with short bat - $11.50

Hey guys, are you planning on tapping the side of the angle bracket that secures the output devices, or instead using a nut on the bottom of the PCB? I'm wondering if the latter will be able to get as much force on the devices. My bracket is around 0.2" thick at this point. I'm also looking at #6 screws to attach the bracket to the heat sink, as I'm not sure how many threads I'd get out of a #8 screw. Again, the base of my heat sink is 8mm and bracket is ~ 0.2" thick, so should I consider going up to #8?

I have a need for a small part at Percy that won't meet the minimum order of $25, if anyone is placing an order, perhaps they could throw something in for me

another interesting preamp design: Detailed write-up at: The Difference Engine Preamp Version 1.0 Exploring a 'secret' circuit called a differential. Article By Grey Rollins

meh. My Teclast T50 plays FLAC and is 1/1000th the size

Your Freight Total $5.65

no, they saw that it could hold a camera and accessories and assumed it would be that big.

Assuming a normal attenuation curve, which was what I wasn't sure about.

yes, their packaging is how do you say..... copious. Try ordering about 50 values of Dale resistors, and see what you end up with Last few times I've ordered stuff from Farnell via Newark, and they have payed shipping on this side of the pond for me (well, I payed that $15 surcharge I suppose). This time I selected USPS Priority, and I haven't gotten this shipping amount yet.

Newark is a strange beast. They care a nice intersection of Digikey and Mouser parts. The strange thing is, there are always "sale" items that are marked with a P. They isn't much rhyme or reason to it, for example the 1.00K resistors of a certain line may be heavily discounted, or a cable gland for a large multipart Amphenol assembly. I've never seen "sale" items at Mouser or Digikey... The neon lamps are a little trick I'm playing with to help ease the large turn on voltage that tubes see on start due to plate CCSes.. the idea is if you have two tubes connected together, and the first tube has a plate CCS, if it is not warmed up, all the current is forced into the second tubes grid until the first tube warms up... the bulb is placed across the grid / cathode of the second tube. It seems to work pretty well, the neon bulb is on at start-up then turns off as the plate CCS comes up. I'm going to try and play with a few different strike voltages and see if I can optimize things some more.

parts at Newark using 25% coupon (as if anyone cares really): NATIONAL SEMICONDUCTOR LM317HVT/NOPB NATIONAL SEMICONDUCTOR LM329DZ/NOPB VISHAY GENERAL SEMICONDUCTOR 1N4001GP-E3/1 VISHAY SEMICONDUCTOR 1N4733A-TR CADDOCK MK132V-200K-1% AVAGO TECHNOLOGIES HLMP-D150 3M 929952-10 Jumper FAIRCHILD SEMICONDUCTOR TIP50 MULTICOMP MC08030000 Neon Lamp; MULTICOMP MC08020000 Neon Lamp; MULTICOMP MC08310015 Neon Lamp; BOURNS 3296W-1-501LF VISHAY BC COMPONENTS 5093NW22K00J VISHAY BC COMPONENTS 5093NW18K00J VISHAY BC COMPONENTS 5093NW16K00J VISHAY BC COMPONENTS 5093NW20K00J

cool! how does the left/right matching work, or do you mean it has better channel matching than most DAPs? and is there some sort of gain switch?

I'd recommend cryoing the clay first to realign the structures

I don't know if you guys ever buy from this guy, but he has some in stock: MachMat tube sales There's also a local guy in Austin that often has them, if you're really interested edit: heh, here he is in fact. Strange guy... http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=130519

I like the way you went with that. The other way was just too plebeian.

They are at the same place you got your variac

Hey Ray, why don't you give this a try and see if you can copy the Blue Hawaii with your A-10 http://www.carveraudio.com/CarverChallenge.pdf

Just noticed some Japanese ASCs go up for sale, and started wondering what you ever decided to do with your upgrades?

Thank god there are other devices available now that weren't produced 45 years ago.

hey no fair, you edited your post and it changed my quoted portion of your post

not really luck, just buy 500 of them.. also, most system problems are easily alleviated with a simple buffer, if you have to be able to support every possible equipment chain out there...

Depends how close you match the devices. 0.5dB is pretty normal, and 0.1dB is definitely possible for stereo operation. Attenuation, take your pick, -70dB is a reasonable amount.

I don't see why they wouldn't fit, the optos are around 6mm by 5mm or so. All you need other than that is a crappy pot, so a thumbwheel would work great, since it's not in the signal path. That's what I'd do at least. As for current draw, it's no different than powering a few LEDs... shrug. Same thing as the volume control in the higher end Melos amps of old, I'm surprised you haven't heard of it before.