luvdunhill

try adding a parallel resistor from the wiper (i.e. output of the pot) to ground see if that fixes the problem.

assuming it wasn't the crossover that went out does "blown" mean it doesn't work, or "blown" mean it's distorting.

Thanks Rodrigo I'll see if I can find someone else to help.

ok, in theory you may be correct, but why the hell would I want a player that does this to like 99% of my source material? I'm not going to get a whole new library of material that sounds better with my new shiny player... Also, I find it odd that this so-called "compression" seems to happen with the same DAC chips, over and over.

I don't attribute this to compression really, as I've done A/B comparisons and it's never been the source material.

Does the PCB contain a protection Zobel of sorts?

I dunno about that. They seem to retrieve detail that couldn't have possibly been there to start (I don't mean that technically, I mean that it *seems* that way), especially in the 4kHz+ range. I'm a detail-head don't get me wrong, but the a lot of these newer digital devices seem to pull it out of thin air (well, I suppose that's somewhat close to the truth). I've just confused myself re-reading this.... anyways, what I mean is the hyper-detail is not natural at all, in my opinion.

I have a question for the Spanish folk Do you ever place orders to Conrad.de? If so, would it be possible to add an item to an order? I cannot find a way to send to the US from their website.

Well, in my opinion the Japanese X386S (if you can find them, and.. really, they are big) are probably the equal of the Black Gate WKZ, in circuits that I've tried them (PSU). At this voltage, they are probably one of _the_ caps to beat. I dunno about the cathode bypass caps, as I avoid them where I can and where I cannot, I have pretty small voltage and have found polymer caps to work better than anything I've tried. I don't really have the experience that Doug does here, so I'm sure whatever he recommended would be worth trying. I will say if I had to just try something, since I don't have much experience with this amp, I'd start with a Mundorf M-Tube Cap 47uF/600V or 30uF/600V and bypass it with something like a Relcap RTX.

What's the general topology to need a 250V cathode bypass cap? My recommendation for the PSU would be the _Japanese_ made ASC (made by Shizuki) X386S capacitors, if you can get it to fit.

Would that be Barium Cobalt Nitrogen wrapping? Didn't check the periodic table, but I think that would be BaCoN

I prefer skipping the freezer and just going straight to the cryo chamber. duh.

I pay $26/$1000 on house + land. That's on the low end, definitely.

Just curious, what's the cost of living index (COLI) difference from say your current location and Austin, TX? Housing prices are on the rise here and food isn't really cheap here either. For example, where I first lived there wasn't any fast food restaurants within 5 sq. mi. and our average monthly grocery bill doubled. I know it's not NY/CA/DC/etc. but I'm curious nonetheless. Housing for typical middle-class in north Austin is around $100/sq ft. or so I'd estimate, double that if you move more towards downtown.

yes, or to piggy back the resistors on top of each other on top of the board. Now that I think about it, perhaps this is fine, but I think they could be moved slightly apart.

When I first saw a coaxial from Thiel I immediately didn't read any reviews for this reason.

A number of people cast a very wary eye one *anyone* that does reviews, whether it be "professional" or more amateurish in nature. This is for right or wrong, but this is how it is. My question is, why do you agree to do reviews? Why not listen to the gear and have a conversation with the manufacturer about what you liked and disliked, then return the evaluation unit and not make a public statement? Are you looking for some sort of public approval? Not that this is "bad" per se, but I'm curious, why do you do it?

Puerto Rico. It's beautiful there. I'm going on business there next week and am psyched

I just summarized all the above requests for change and PMed Jacob

if you ever get a chance to hear them, I'd love to live vicariously through that experience and read your impressions!

yes, and no. I was referring to the SCS4, but making a jab at the fact that Audio Advisor, Crutchfield, etc. is now selling Thiel, which is a little sickening in my book. I don't think 87dB/4ohm is all that hard to drive, the limited 48Hz cutoff makes it a bit easier. I'd love to hear them personally, a rather cool design. I don't think the price is all that out of line, consider the driver and the rather complicated enclosure.

I think 512-MC78L15ACP and 512-MC79L15ACP are the best regulator choices. The 512-KA7915ATU and 512-KA7815AETU might be a second choice. They are TO-220 and handle more current, but they have 35V maximum input, where the above TO-92 parts have a maximum input of 40V. I actually couldn't find any fixed, TO-220 regulators with anything more than 35V max input, and the TO-92 regulators seemed to only go up to 40V. Anyways, I still recommend using the bigger opamp, but I suppose I can test these with a OPA134 just for the sake of testing. We also need to add a PDIP-8 socket to the BOM.

It cracks me up how "similar" some of the Chinese part stores can be. Case-in-point: mableaudio.com http://www.kadelectronics.com/

or maybe they are the quiet, sneaky type. or maybe not.