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Budget HE90 Amp?


Fing

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Thanks to Spritzer for answering my plea successfully so quickly!

Luckily the seller said he will provide a HE90 -> Stax adapter as part of the sale so I won't be removing nothing from nothing ;-)

Do not under any circumstances remove the lemo like connector on the end of the

headphone cable. You will need to get the matching connector. And then wire that

connector to a stax male plug. You are not going to like the price of the lemo connector.

(something like $75 if i remember right)

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I recently bought the 7' Black Dragon HE90 extension cable for my HE90 for around $330. Drew told me that the cost of the Fischer connectors are over $200 alone ($100 + each for male & female). It took almost 2 months for Fischer to ship the connectors to Drew. Congrats Fing.

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I've just heard from the HE90 seller and he's telling me that when I bring the amp to test the headphone I should only use the low voltage output on the amp as the headphone may be damaged by using the higher voltage output. Is this true?

The 'polarisation' voltage on the HE90 is 500V whatever that means and the output voltage of the HEV90 is 400Veff. Does that mean the 580V of a Stax 'Pro' output is too high for it?

What is the output voltage of the Normal jack and what would be the result in using it be?

All this these different voltages are pretty confusing to me I'm afraid!

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I've just heard from the HE90 seller and he's telling me that when I bring the amp to test the headphone I should only use the low voltage output on the amp as the headphone may be damaged by using the higher voltage output. Is this true?

The 'polarisation' voltage on the HE90 is 500V whatever that means and the output voltage of the HEV90 is 400Veff. Does that mean the 580V of a Stax 'Pro' output is too high for it?

What is the output voltage of the Normal jack and what would be the result in using it be?

All this these different voltages are pretty confusing to me I'm afraid!

The He90 is designed to run on 500v (bias or polarization voltage) but more importantly it was designed for a 10Meg bleed resistor. Stax specs 5meg for most of their headphones. The resistor controls the charge on the diaphragm so you might have to install a 5 meg ohm resistor in series with the bias wire on the adapter. If the phones are of the 2005 production run then this shouldn't be an issue and I run mine from a Stax pro bias output without any issues. In fact I use them out of my, identical T1 without any issues. You can also send them back to Senn and have them modify the drivers to be able to handle the Stax spec.

As many of you know by now, i collect unusual, rare and expensive items.

So have a look at these...

http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/fischers.jpg

Anyone with any creative ideas what to do with them??

That is a nice collection. If you have any 6 pin version you could recable one of the normal bias Stax phones. They are also very nice outboard PSU connectors. I might have to buy some for my upcoming upgraded BH...

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As many of you know by now, i collect unusual, rare and expensive items.

So have a look at these...

Anyone with any creative ideas what to do with them??

Ha! If you are in the industry you can slowly obtain such a collection by calling and asking for samples.

Kevin: (To hot blond) Howd you lik to cum inside and see my collection of connectors???

Hot Blond: (Batting her eyes) Connectors?? really that's what you're using. It use to be etchings.'

Kevin: No really, ... Connectors.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Talking about adaptors, it seems that a 5M resistor needs to be soldered into the bias line of the HE90 for it to work properly with my Stax SRM-T1.

I think a symptom of this is that when I press the sides of the earcups onto my head, I can sometimes hear a 'sticking' noise as the membrane seems to get stuck onto the stators. It slowly gets 'unstuck' in a peeling sellotape off metal surface kind of noise.

I took a picture of my adaptor in the hopes that a knowledgeable member would be able to tell me which is the bias line:

he90adaptor.jpg

The alternative is soldering the resistor into the Stax amp from the inside, if that is easier and again, if someone could tell me which one that is.

Please help!

Cheers!

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The peeling sound is normal so don't worry about it. The stators are insulated so the diaphragm won't get damaged. If you want to add the resistor I would do it on the amp as it is much easier. Open up the top and the bias supply is next to the transformer. Just retrace the wire from the Pro sockets and cut it somewhere and add a 5M resistor.

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Ha! If you are in the industry you can slowly obtain such a collection by calling and asking for samples.

But its way more fun to trash about $600k of instruments to salvage the connectors.

Think of it as therapy :prettyprincess: In this case a micromass quatro 2 and a micromass

maldi (now owned by waters). The qstar is next....

I now have 6 x 6 inch turbo pumps and controllers... And a pair of 12 inch pumps. Time

to make some electron tubes by hand...

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As many of you know by now, i collect unusual, rare and expensive items.

So have a look at these...

http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/fischers.jpg

Anyone with any creative ideas what to do with them??

4 ideas -

Chandelier

Hang them in as strikers for windchimes / bells

Counter weights for clocks (to replace the lead weights)

Pendulum weights

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The peeling sound is normal so don't worry about it. The stators are insulated so the diaphragm won't get damaged. If you want to add the resistor I would do it on the amp as it is much easier. Open up the top and the bias supply is next to the transformer. Just retrace the wire from the Pro sockets and cut it somewhere and add a 5M resistor.

Thanks Spritzer!

I don't like the peeling sound :-(

I soldered the resistor onto the 2nd Pro socket (chained from the 1st one) so that I can have a Stax biased socket and a Sennheiser biased socket.

Still get the peeling sound from the Sennheiser socket but otherwise everything seems to be fine.

Cheers!

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I love the look of that amp though. :) My ES-1 doesn't run all that hot Birgir.

Like I told Andy it must be my Nordic minimalism talking. I also wonder why they didn't hide the screws behind a fake front panel. It would have cost another 40$ but the amp would have looked much better.

I don't see how this amp can be considered cutting edge without huge CCS for each channel sinking more heat then a 200w AB amplifier. You need a lot of current to keep electrostatics happy and make them reach their full potential. The new BH I'm working on will have four 0.27

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