luvdunhill Posted April 26, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2009 Final prototyping BOM: https://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=69a573ab56 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luvdunhill Posted April 26, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2009 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
digger945 Posted April 26, 2009 Report Share Posted April 26, 2009 It would appear(if my eyes don't decieve me) that the two large caps(1000uF 50V on your Mouser BOM?), up next to the outputs, are connected across V+ and V-(potential 60V give or take) whereas the 4 large caps down next to the power entry are across V+ or V- and ground(approx. 30V). I think this one is the same just 63V. Also it looks like the .1uF 50V caps for the opamp power bypassing have no holes to go into on the pcb? It would appear they have pads for a SMD cap maybe. The Mouser part could be soldered to the pads, or maybe you could use something like this. It is a MLCC device so the solder pads are on the short sides unlike the picture. Of course the pcb could always be changed to accomadate a radial part, or modified to fit both. The .47uF opamp bypassing cap on your list has a lead spacing of 5mm, the pcb spacing is 7.5mm. The same cap with 7.5mm lead spacing. Finally, I get 4 little (5mm lead spacing) power supply bypassing caps per board. If these are the .01uF Wima's on your list then you'll need 4 more. If the .47's above are for this role then add 2 more to that list(in addition to two 7.5mm caps for the opamps). I apologize in advance Marc if I mucked up something that is woefully evident to everyone else, my eyes are not all that good and lack a good IC to my brain sometimes;D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luvdunhill Posted April 27, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2009 It would appear(if my eyes don't decieve me) that the two large caps(1000uF 50V on your Mouser BOM?), up next to the outputs, are connected across V+ and V- oops, yes you are correct. I looked around at Mouser some more and decided to change to the PM series. I don't think we need much capacitance here really. I've decided on these to prototype with, and feel free to use larger ratings / larger sizes. The PM series is a very good performer by the way, and usually better than the HE series, if I recall. I'm choosing these values as there are equivalents in the Elna Silmic II line as well (my favorite electrolytic) 647-UPM1K221MHD6 647-UPM1V471MHD6 Also it looks like the .1uF 50V caps for the opamp power bypassing have no holes to go into on the pcb? It would appear they have pads for a SMD cap maybe. good catch. The most recent version of the board was changed to a 0.1" pitch TH cap instead of the SMD pad. The .47uF opamp bypassing cap on your list has a lead spacing of 5mm, the pcb spacing is 7.5mm. The same cap with 7.5mm lead spacing. good catch again. I think 2.5mm, 5mm, and 7.5mm will all fit. Seems that the cap you recommended should fit fine, I'll add it, unless anyone sees something we don't ... Finally, I get 4 little (5mm lead spacing) power supply bypassing caps per board. If these are the .01uF Wima's on your list then you'll need 4 more. If the .47's above are for this role then add 2 more to that list(in addition to two 7.5mm caps for the opamps). yeah, I was thinking about using a pair of the 0.47uF for the larger caps and a pair of the 0.01uF for the smaller caps. I think I'll change all four to be the Wima FKP2 and while I'm at it increase them to 100V caps. I apologize in advance Marc if I mucked up something that is woefully evident to everyone else, my eyes are not all that good and lack a good IC to my brain sometimes;D no, you've been super helpful! I very much appreciate the feedback, and it goes without saying that the rest of the group buy members do too! updated BOM: http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=69a573ab56 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
digger945 Posted April 30, 2009 Report Share Posted April 30, 2009 Pcb layout looks good to me compared to Jacob's and Kevin's schematics. Hat's off to Jacob for what I think is a great looking board. There is the possibility that someone may want to use some electrolytics that may only be available with 5mm lead spacing. Rubycon ZL's would be one. This would be a show stopper in red mask. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luvdunhill Posted April 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2009 Pcb layout looks good to me compared to Jacob's and Kevin's schematics. Hat's off to Jacob for what I think is a great looking board. +1 I've made a final change to the BOM and plan on order parts today for the PoC boards. I changed from the Xicon 2/5/10ohm resistors to the Vishay/BC, as it seems that we are not going to get the extra space we need for the above resistors. The BC are a very compact package (1W for the 5/10 and 2W for the 2R), but are 5% resistors. I think these will work fine for the time being. Again, the BOM is at: https://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=69a573ab56 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Icarium Posted April 30, 2009 Report Share Posted April 30, 2009 Okay looks like pending the last final change + double checking from j4cbo we are good to go on ordering prototype boards. I am going to do this and pay for it and have them sent to luvdunhill. He/KG and possibly Digger are going to prototype with parts that luvdunhill is supplying and pending that we are moving forward with the big order. Luvdunhill and Digger have already prototyped the circuit with hacked up dynahi boards and it seems kosher so they anticipate no big issues with these prototype boards as its only to confirm lay out. So the cost of the prototype boards and parts is going to be added to the cost of the big order and distributed across everybody. Does that sound fair? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DigiPete Posted April 30, 2009 Report Share Posted April 30, 2009 "Luvdunhill and Digger have already prototyped the circuit with hacked up dynahi boards" Really? Do tell! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DigiPete Posted April 30, 2009 Report Share Posted April 30, 2009 After the final proto-typing is done, I will get inputs from Luvdunhill/KG on final parts selection, and make up the final BOM for passive/misc parts order. At that point we will work out details for ordering and payment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luvdunhill Posted April 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2009 Really? Do tell! Yup, the thing works Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DigiPete Posted April 30, 2009 Report Share Posted April 30, 2009 Yup, the thing works How does it sound compared to the Dynahi? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luvdunhill Posted April 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2009 How does it sound compared to the Dynahi? rather monaural Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DigiPete Posted April 30, 2009 Report Share Posted April 30, 2009 acknowledged Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Torpedo Posted April 30, 2009 Report Share Posted April 30, 2009 Okay looks like pending the last final change + double checking from j4cbo we are good to go on ordering prototype boards. I am going to do this and pay for it and have them sent to luvdunhill. He/KG and possibly Digger are going to prototype with parts that luvdunhill is supplying and pending that we are moving forward with the big order. Luvdunhill and Digger have already prototyped the circuit with hacked up dynahi boards and it seems kosher so they anticipate no big issues with these prototype boards as its only to confirm lay out. So the cost of the prototype boards and parts is going to be added to the cost of the big order and distributed across everybody. Does that sound fair? Sounds quite fine here Fingers crossed for the PCBs working as expected. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vvs_75 Posted May 9, 2009 Report Share Posted May 9, 2009 The diameter of the hole it's perfect for a M3 tap -- o -- Rodrigo Rodrigo, Did you drill out the pin? Or is there other way to do it? I broke off one pin trying to pull it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spritzer Posted May 9, 2009 Report Share Posted May 9, 2009 There are also heatsinks which don't have any pins for screw mounting. I must say that I prefer the pins since it's never been a problem to remove sinks fitted with them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PICaudio Posted May 9, 2009 Report Share Posted May 9, 2009 Rodrigo, Did you drill out the pin? Or is there other way to do it? I broke off one pin trying to pull it out. No, I removed the pins, it's easy if you push the pins with a tool in the other side of the hole. -- o -- Rodrigo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vvs_75 Posted May 9, 2009 Report Share Posted May 9, 2009 Thanks, I try to find tool for now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PICaudio Posted May 9, 2009 Report Share Posted May 9, 2009 I don't know the name in your language of the tool that I've used , in Spanish is "botador". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DigiPete Posted May 9, 2009 Report Share Posted May 9, 2009 Jacob or Marc, What's new on the DynaFet stuff? Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
digger945 Posted May 9, 2009 Report Share Posted May 9, 2009 Punch. I have a set of cheap ones like this from Ace hardware. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PICaudio Posted May 9, 2009 Report Share Posted May 9, 2009 Yes, this is the "magical" tool that I've used with the pins . Many thanls Digger945 . -- o -- Rodrigo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vvs_75 Posted May 9, 2009 Report Share Posted May 9, 2009 Thank you guys! So, you just punched the pin in? The tool doesn't look long enough to puch the pin out from other side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
digger945 Posted May 10, 2009 Report Share Posted May 10, 2009 Another trick I've used in a pinch is to take the (in this case HS) to the hardware and find another pin that's loose in the hole to use to help give you some more "reach". I've also used a nail but they can be kinda soft. Lowes or Home Depot may have punches that are a bit longer than mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PICaudio Posted May 10, 2009 Report Share Posted May 10, 2009 I used a Facom 2mm pin punch. -- o -- Rodrigo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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