Those 2  175KOhm  and 500 Ohm resistors are there if you use the 2SA1968. devices.

That board leaves them out as it uses the IXYS devices and the 1KOhm and 1.2KOhm resistors underneath the device.

The empty spot next to the 2 resistors is for a LED.

Edited February 26, 201313 yr by wink

Are there boards available for this build?  I was asked if I could build one today and I said I would look into it.  I see some recent builds are being done so I assume parts can still be sourced if I look hard enough.  I'm already looking for hard to find parts to get my T2 started so why no t add this to the mix.

Are there boards available for this build?  I was asked if I could build one today and I said I would look into it.  I see some recent builds are being done so I assume parts can still be sourced if I look hard enough.  I'm already looking for hard to find parts to get my T2 started so why no t add this to the mix.

 

Contact Lil' Knight!

Music is flowing, finaly. Very hudge sound, so much more power than my T1, everything is better, soundstage coming more in front, dynamics, and à lot more.

Many thanks to all of you. À big thank you to Spritzer, à hudge one to head incluons !!!! )

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1359833299.516590.jpg

Just a quick question... I've figured that it's the HiFi2000 Pesante case. 2U 400 mm.

 

However, the on/off-button, pot placement and Stax-output, since both you and spritzer seem to use the same layout. Any drawings you would like to share?

 

Thinking of using the exact same layout. Why make things more complicated than they should be..

 

Thx,

V

The only drawings I have are off the front panel.  All the back and internal bits are done by hand. 

The only drawings I have are off the front panel.  All the back and internal bits are done by hand. 

 

If you'd like to share it I'd appreciate it a lot!

Just a quickie question... Do the different semiconductors (primarly the amplifying ones) need to be matched?

It's better to match but it's not necessary. 

Getting there. Still designing the front and back panels.

Thank you Birgir for sharing your ideas on wiring.

Edited March 2, 201313 yr by eggil

Nice work Enrique. Looks like music from this build is just round the corner.

Are there boards available for this build?  I was asked if I could build one today and I said I would look into it.  I see some recent builds are being done so I assume parts can still be sourced if I look hard enough.  I'm already looking for hard to find parts to get my T2 started so why no t add this to the mix.

Tran just did another board production, so he should have plenty for sale.

 

Getting there. Still designing the front and back panels.

Thank you Birgir for sharing your ideas on wiring.

very nice! definately takes up much less space than the off-board or two cases.

Any comment on the temp of the heatsinks?

Approx 60 degrees Celsius on the amp heatsinks. One side a little less; the PSU is actually lower.

That's actually very cool for on-board.

Were those measured with enclosed case or just open? Because the heatsink on PSU definately feels a lot hotter with the case enclosed... (that's without the amp output devices adding to it.)

Still open. Not done with my enclosure yet. What are you getting with your amp?

Edited March 2, 201313 yr by eggil

Mine is off-board, same as your first one... so they should be very similar...

I don't have a temp measuring tool, but it feels like some where between 60 and 70.

Finger can only stay on there for like 2~3 sec. The covering plate right above those sinks are like 45 (very good hand warmer,) and the big sinks for the amp output devices are like 40 (can barely feel the heat with my hand.)

I don't want to imagine having all those heat in one enclore with some vent holes and only a few on-board sinks for heat dissipation. I really can see the case itself getting very very warm to the touch, especially during summer...

 

Can anyone with a finished on-board one case KGSSHV comment on it?

I'm in Iceland so outside temps are never a problem.   

I have a 39 mm Modushop knob.

Would a 40 mm circumference cut out in the front panel be large enough for it to rotate nicely? I am thinking it may be a tight fit.

Is it this one?

 

 

If so I would account for a bit more room as the knob might not sit perfectly on the shaft and cause some contact issues. 

Yeah, that's the one. I was thinking 41 mm would probably be enough.

Edited March 2, 201313 yr by eggil

Yeah, that should be enough. 

Great. Thanks.

<snip>

 

Can anyone with a finished on-board one case KGSSHV comment on it?

 

My KGSSHV runs on the warm side, definitely not "hot" on the outside of the case.

The case is a stock Par-Metal aluminum box, no extra venting needed.

 

Thanks for the answer!

Great. Heat is not such a big prblem after all then.

Maybe I should build an on-board one just like eggil to save some space...

Well, it's my wife's fault. She thought it was too big.

Well, it's my wife's fault. She thought it was too big.

 

 

Bragger.