So in the end, I ended up putting in more money than I wanted to in this project. I'm not too far from break-even if you count the extra parts I have.

I was thinking of selling off a couple of kits (board + parts, not assembled) for $85 each + shipping just to pull some money out of this project. I could sell off up to 4 kits.

I'm not upset if I can't since I'm sure I will use them over time.

PM me or Post on this thread if you are interested.

Kerry, regarding the programing of the board, do they come pre programed or do we need to buy the arduino board to program the IC?

To use a simple pot to control the att, does it need programing?

Could you elaborate a bit more on this?

Kerry, could I have two parts kits without the boards (I already got two boards)?

Looks like no more kits.

Kerry, regarding the programing of the board, do they come pre programed or do we need to buy the arduino board to program the IC?

To use a simple pot to control the att, does it need programing?

Could you elaborate a bit more on this?

The attenuator boards don't come with processors, so you need an arduino board or something to control it. The programming is then loaded into the controller board which connects to the attenuator(s).

The boards will only work with a digital controller. You have an option of using a rotary encoder (see code above) or an analog POT to provide input to the controller board.

Ok, thanks for the explanation.

Any sugestions regarding a simple no frills arduino board to use with an analog pot?

I got the Arduino Uno board (part # 782-A000049) on Mouser. I would also recommend using a rotary encoder, since there are already coding examples for using one on this thread. I don't have a part number for the rotary encoder handy. Maybe someone else can supply that.

Amazing work Kerry, much appreciated! Can't wait for it to arrive now.

I got the Arduino Uno board (part # 782-A000049) on Mouser. I would also recommend using a rotary encoder, since there are already coding examples for using one on this thread. I don't have a part number for the rotary encoder handy. Maybe someone else can supply that.

Beefy should have apart number for a rotary encoder, since he uses a rotary encoder for his Amati attenuator in his eXStatA. I bought my Amati as a kit with the rotary encoder included, so I don't know the part number.

Beefy should have apart number for a rotary encoder, since he uses a rotary encoder for his Amati attenuator in his eXStatA. I bought my Amati as a kit with the rotary encoder included, so I don't know the part number.

Indeed. Here is the encoder I used for the Marc's PGA attenuator, and hope to use with this new board. It includes a push button switch that I may try and integrate, if I have time to learn how to program it.

You can use pretty much any encoder with an Arduino. The code already posted will work with all "Incremental" encoders that are "2 bit Gray Code" or "2-bit quadrature code", such as the one linked to above.

I do recommend going for a higher PPR (pulses per revolution) or CPR (cycles per revolution) as possible because this attenuator has 256 steps, so at 24 PPR you will need to rotate it many times to go from 0 to 256. Also, you get what you pay for, a cheap encoder will feel cheap and they can sometimes jump around between steps. If you want to splash out, I have both of these and they are really nice:

http://ca.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Bourns/EM14R0D-M20-L064S/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsWp46O%252bq11WaOTWrP7dyXBueE8zSLmq%252bw%3d

http://ca.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Bourns/ENA1J-B28-L00128/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsWp46O%252bq11WcqwRcNrfIIZ3fHa2t9hjOc%3d

If you want to splash out, I have both of these and they are really nice:

Not a chance in hell I would spend $20 on an encoder for this application.

Edited September 4, 201114 yr by Beefy

Not a chance in hell I would spend $20 on an encoder for this application.

I take it you are frowning upon those of us planning to use the RK50 to control the attenuator. I did get it on sale

I'm not serious

RK50 to control the attenuator. I kind of like that idea. The RK50 should

be available in mono, so not as much as you might think. Stereo with

dual shafts might be nice, one for volume, the other for balance.

The digital encoders are a way better idea.

If anyone is interested I'll be selling my assembled pair (2 boards, balanced) for the same price I paid from Kerry. I only ended up needing a single pair.

Boards received! Can't wait to see it in action

Thanks Kerry!

By the way, have you thought about creating a relay based input/output selector board that matches the dimensions of the digital attenuator? That would allow to stack them up in order to minimize space and signal path. It would simplify metal work as well (less drilling).

It could also nicely benefit all the hassle of the attenuator implementation: using same power supply, and same encoding method (arduino).

I could probably do that. When i don't know.

Got mine today, thanks Kerry!

Looking good

Got mine a while back. Thanks Kerry. Now to figure out what project to put them in.

Anyone has any spares? To use with Balanced Dynahi-build. Both populated (even used) and unpopulated boards are fine!

 

Thx!

V

I was thinking about doing another bare boards run, but I won't get around to it for at least a couple of months.

 

Anyone interested? I'd like to stock a decent chunk.

 

Last I checked, everything was still available at mouser, so no problems there.

How many are needed for a minimum?

1 typically. Just dont look at the price.

Since they are 6 layer boards, the price can go very high for low quantity.

 

I priced 130 at $9 each and 150 at $8.43 each.