Leaderboard

In case anyone is paying attention, for legs I went with the simplest option and did tapered 1 1/2x2 sticks with the tiniest roundover. Going to do dominoes to connect these to the stretchers and then dominoes to attach to the bottom 3/4” Walnut base.

Cutting the bar that seats in a pass-through window, and finishing of shelves and bar. That's not even the good side of the bar. That's the bottom.

Me preparing the wiring and waiting for some Xicon 300R and finally solder the C3675 as well (still need to test). Started with the amp board as well...

Then I found this... ...love this thread.

Osmo on the shelves but not on the bottom of the bar top. That is Le Tonkinois No. 1 linseed oil marine varnish. I prefer working with the Tonkinois but the finishes look similar.

Reminds me good memories!

One of the last concerts we went to pre-lockdown was Graham Nash - and evening of music and recollections. Completely excellent in all regards Prior to that Neil Young in one of the weirdest concerts I've been to. At one point he and his band turned their backs to the audience, went to the back of the stage and jammed for 20 minutes. And that was one of the less strange things. Also Graham Nash and David Crosby (who have since fallen out big time). At one point Nash said to Crosby "behave - or you'll have to play with Neil Young and go deaf". Superb, absolutely superb.

opa134pa is exactly what i am using and is fine the LT1021DCN8-10#PBF is about half the price of the version of the reference your are proposing. The output accuracy is a function of the accuracy of the LT AND the divider network (which sets the output voltage) by taking the output and dividing it down to a nominal 10V. This is fed to the opamp which acts as a comparator between this and the LT. Unless you are going to use 0.1% or better tolerance hand picked resistors for the divider network there is not much point in spending $$$ on a very accurate version of the reference when the divider resistors are 1% and will drown out any extra accuracy a more expensive version of the LT will provide.... If you want high accuracy and don't want to spend $$$ you can always hand measure and match the resistors to get a more accurate output voltage (if you need that level of accuracy).

Oh shit Waxahatchee released 3 covers with an anniversary deluxe version of their album from last year. The Lucinda Williams cover is especially nice Bonus: Did not know that First Aid Kit did a live concert tribute for Leonard Cohen

Crosby, Stills, Nash & Young’s Lost Album, Human Highway https://longreads.com/2021/03/30/crosby-stills-nash-youngs-lost-album-human-highway/

Booker T. Jones

It’s like being an archaeologist I imagine, very welcome @chocolates!

The first board is 120mm x 60mm / 4.72in 2.37in while this latest is 99mm x 56mm / 3.92in x 2.22in. Here they are together with a mini T2 for comparison.

The pcb files are in zips with the contents in a format called gerber which can be uploaded to a pcb manufacturer like jlcpcb. The gebers contain all the necessary information for the creating the copper tracks, drilling of holes, silkscreen printing etc. Often there are minimum order sizes of around 5 of each type of board so often people have spares... There are no step by step instructions. There is an assumption that you can read a schematic, are prepared to read through some very lengthy forum threads and do basic drilling for mounting boards to heatsinks etc. the information is a bit spread-out. In general you need: BOM - bill of materials to get the right value and size components. Downloads from the appropriate forum thread for your build (and possibly two threads - the second thread being for the power supply) schematics - for troubleshooting etc in the forum threads and or download from https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B7egryukiT7_TFlEQlBRejdVdDQ the gerber files for getting the pcbs made in the forum threads or download from https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B_iJFfZStuVhSE5nOHBVdTByR1k the specifications for the transformers. in the forum threads. advice. in the forum threads and ask in the threads. in general the markings on the pcbs takes precedence over the schematic or bill of materials (unless the pcb has a silkscreen error). Some amps have more information than others - the threads grow organically over time depending upon popularity, etc. In general support is available for everything on a voluntary basis. You post questions on the appropriate thread hope for someone to answer. There are some very knowledgeable and helpful people active in the forum for example Kevin Gilmore, Kerry, JoaMat. Often the people who created the design will answer questions in the forum posts or people who have actually built one or even modified one. Unless you have lots of money/luck/ or existing stocks of obsolete components obtained from known good sources, I would stay away from any design which requires no longer manufactured transistors. There are many fakes floating around which can and will fail catastrophically on first switch on and non fakes are rare and there are few trusted sources willing to sell to non friends. I would advise reading the forum threads from start to finish and making notes, that way you can see the different versions/modifications emerge, see issues with certain components for example in the DIY T2 thread the voltages are high enough that some makes of resistor sparked and the insulation broke down.... Look at what people did that worked or did not work and learn from their experience. Finally if you can, give as well as receive. Post what works for you, post pictures, post updated bills of materials etc.

Starting the remnant search for the tops.

I am at the point now where I need to figure how to smash this stick pile into 12” legs. I am think an x brace across the bottom with the big piece with some half lap or whatever cuts in the middle and then splayed, tapered legs dominoed to the cross braces so coming out towards the corners. Hard to explain and even harder to draw up in Sketch Up so probably a disaster when I try to nail it all together. I was also trying to figure out how to mimic my actual mid-century modern dresser legs, but not sure a jig saw will get me far in making that setup.

Just finished: Up Next:

Got to try Doug’s fancy drawer building joints and the micro adjuster from Jessem. Pretty easy way to put them together on the router table. Definitely easier than switching out blades and brakes on the SawStop.