Jon L

EOSE2823 by drjlo1, on Flickr

Same here. According to DPReview: As far as dynamic range is concerned, we're told that the new 5DS and 5DS R should give the same performance as the current EOS 5D Mark III. If true, this means that the new cameras won't be able to offer the same industry-leading dynamic range of Sony's current APS-C and full-frame sensors, but at least it isn't a step backwards. And hey - 50MP! What Canon should release is a new 5D with 24-28 Megapixelish new sensor with improved dyamic range. It's also announced that Canon will not bring the new EOS M3 to North America. I think Canon has lost me But then that was predictable, which is why I picked up (again!) a Sony A7R with Zeiss 55mm f1.8 last week No, I'm not interested in the rumored Sony 50 MP replacement, either. SonyA7r Zeiss FE55 by drjlo1, on Flickr

That's interesting. Are we talking colors straight out of camera JPEG, RAWS, processed RAWS (how?). I've been playing more with X-Rite Colorchecker to shoot the grey card on scene, custom WB, shoot the color patches, generate profile for WB in post-processing. Also using X-Rite iDisplay Pro to calibrate my LCD screens better The results are nice, but it does take extra time and attention, something often not available for "spontaneous" shots, in which case it can be very tricky to get WB right in post-processing, sometimes never, especially under mixed lighting.

It kills me to see how much companies upcharge for going from regular HD to SSD and to go up in size in SSD when excellent SSD's like Sandisk Ultra II and Samsung Evo can be bought at very reasonable prices. I have gone the route of getting laptops with good processor and RAM with cheap/small HD's, then inserting my own SSD for all laptops I currently use, which is working out great.

Sad to see the tree and 2014 go.. EOSE2620Refl by drjlo1, on Flickr

AArrrggg. Horrible, just horrible.

Stuff happened to my computer. Long story short, I had "opportunity" to compare Win 7 to Win 8.1 on the same computer multiple times, and win 8.1 beats the pants off 7 on start-up and shut-off times. I hate metro, but installing Classic Shell fixed that quickly.

Thanks. That image came about as I was testing my 100L lens due to the focus ring being stuck in manual focus mode at the 0.3 m end all the time, moving only when I really push hard on the focus ring and turn. It's out of warranty, so I guess it's time to donate more of my money to Canon service dept

EOSE2500HiCont by drjlo1, on Flickr

Personally, it's difficult to believe the K70xx series has improved enough to warrant a repeat purchase for me, but if AKG ever wakes up and make a K1000 MkII with a bit more warmth and detachable cables, I'd be all over that

EOSE2423bicol by drjlo1, on Flickr

I was curious myself, and according to Steve Eddy's guess: "Looking at the photos, it looks like the granular material could be quartz, which has piezoelectric properties. Meaning that if you apply an electric field to it, it will physically deform. That's mechanical energy. Or more to the point, conversion of electrical energy into mechanical energy. So we have the shield of the female jack covered with (what looks like) bits of quartz. And then some strips of foil laid over them, which at least for the left and right hots, would produce an electric field between the foil and the shield on the female jack. The ground foil doesn't make any sense however. The female jack's shield is connected to ground, which would put it at the same potential as the ground foil, in which case there would be no electric field between them, and hence no transduction of electrical energy into mechanical energy. Perhaps it's there to keep the other two foils company. Of course the electric field produced by the relatively low voltages of a headphone output and such tiny strips of foil isn't really going to do anything to speak of to the bits of quartz, but even if it did, what would be the point of vibrating some little bits of quartz on the shield of a female headphone jack? You're obviously not intended to hear them vibrating. They're sealed up inside a rigid plastic tube, and hey, you've got a pair of headphones on." From manufacturer: "When HOT is used with your favorite cans you hear sound that gets out of your head as well as smoother more articulate highs with improved bass. If you’ve been looking for more holographic sound with smoother highs and increased resolution, you’ve gotta try HOT!" I DO believe this may be the ANSWER we have been missing regarding our SR009 "brightness" or "imbalance" woes. We need to take a couple of HOT's, a mere $600 bargain, get rid of the connectors, attach them to T2 or BHSE's Stax output jacks, add SR009, and BINGO, a sound Stax meant to produce but couldn't

Tried making Steamed fish in lemongrass oil for the first time. Rather yummy! EOSE2374 by drjlo1, on Flickr

Not my photo but let me share one of the funnier photo's I've seen this month horsesh by drjlo1, on Flickr

Thanks. That looks pretty slick. I also found this article helpful for those in same situation: http://www.makeuseof.com/tag/6-ways-to-sync-music-to-your-iphone-without-itunes/

Arg. Samsung Note 4 it is then..

Wifey wants an iPhone 6+ with larger memory, so I may be getting her 6+, which would be my very first iPhone ever. Coming from Android, I already know I detest iTunes, especially on my computer. I've tried it in past and hate how iTunes tries to take over your computer. Which is the easiest, best, freest way to transfer MP3 files to-and-from my computer to iPhone 6+ and play them without involving iTunes?

Trying to make some DIY USB cable, but I cannot seem to find USB 2.0 type B male plugs anywhere in USA, only some from China on eBay with long shipping estimates. Found some type A plugs on Amazon. For type B, looking for something like these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/170578212079?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Fantastic idea, but knowing and dealing with HIPAA every day, I sure hope your project ends well without somebody getting in trouble or people filing lawsuits There's a reason my "hospital shot" resembles impressionism. DSC00029dxo by drjlo1, on Flickr

Where should the SN be? I emailed the seller about this question this morning and still no answer, so I will file this under SCAM and move on.

Well, I got a reply from the seller. Serial number is reported as 00268, and he accepts bank transfers only for payment. I have never bought anything audio-wise with bank transfer. Is there ANY protection for buyer if something goes wrong with bank transfer? I don't know why I'm looking at this thing anyway, as I hardly have time for my SR009 and OII MkI as it is and need to be saving for a super-duper stat amp, but I always coveted the HE90

$3400 for "mint" HE90 Orpheus but money order/certified check only. Do we know anyone like this from London? https://app.audiogon.com/listings/in-ear-sennheiser-orpheus-he90-headphones-2014-11-06-headphones-n15-5lh

BHSE and O2 MkI really shouldn't sound that edgy or forward. I can see it if you were using SR009. I do have both O2 MkI and SR009. I'm not one of those people who preach PC audio is "better" than traditional transport/DAC, but asynchronous USB DAC's do tend to sound smoother, rounder via USB compared to spdif inputs, so it's something to consider.

Could you remind me why tube failure would be worse in BHSE?

I can't say I have noticed "odd reverberation on voices" or channel imbalance with my SR-009, but what serial numbers are considered "early" units?