wink

So, who's up for these little wonders..? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ESLAB-ELECTROSTATIC-HEADPHONES-PMB-/252126535303?hash=item3ab3e99e87:g:MTUAAOSw~gRV5Vxp

Ebay is your friend....... although what state they are in is debatable. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Agilent-Keysight-8-1-2-digit-3458A-Multimeter-w-certs-data-/252116768354?hash=item3ab3549662

Beats will fit in your ear canal if you shove hard enough. The will also double up as eardrum protection. Win/win.... right there.....

If you can find a Fluke 187 or 189 or equivalent. They range from $200 up to $400. (yikes) If you want a 6.5 digit benchtop model, an Agilent 34401A is about the best you can get for the princely sum of about $400 up.. (tee hee). Don't look for the Agilent 3458A 8.5 digit multimeter.

A better meter with more digits in the display would give you greater accuracy not only in the number of digits but also in the accuracy of the meter. When I used to calibrate meters I found some multimeters such as "Parameters", whilst not as rugged as a Fluke and not specced a good as a Fluke were usually more accurate than a Fluke. i.e. they were very close to spot-on rather than just somewhere within the tolerance range.

Having worked in calibrating multimeters, among other things, your problem could be not enough resolution in the meter. Solution: Use the voltage range closest to the voltage being measured without going under the voltage being measured, or get a multimeter with a greater number of digits and the accuracy to match. To measure 15.00V with only 4 digit resolution gives only 2 decimal places. If the voltage is exactly 15.00V, the the reading could be anything from 14.99V to 15.01V depending on the resolution and the tolerance of the meter. With more digits and resolution you could get between 14.99999999V to 15.0000001V and still be 15.0000000V

But.... but..... it sounds GOOD, doesn't it..... That's gotta be good, right..? Your casting of aspersions as to the dubious nature of the purchasing of such a piece of audio equipment is of inestimable value to the High Fidelity community at large. But, then again, if it is not in Mikhael territory, it's gotta be OK. Please tell me it's not....!

Astuteness personified.

Too true....

http://www.fujiya-avic.jp/blog/?p=20418

Yeah, sorry for that, That's what I get for doing things like this at 3AM in the morning. I completely missed those 2 caps in the servo. I should have twigged to the fact that the lead spacing was all wrong. My bad.

before I retired, I used to work with Agilent 3458A multimeters Great for Dc voltages, but for AC you need a Wavetek/Datron 4920 or a Fluke 5790A/B.

So, a C340C105K5R (Mouser 80-C340C105K5R) should do the trick.... mwl168, could you please check and update the XL spreadsheet.

15mm Same as the 0.1uF 1kV

On the BOM Edit 9/18 on line 19, the cap 80-C320C104J5R is shown as 0.1uF 50V On the PCB it is 1Uf 50V

You would need to get a suffix X instead of W, or a Suffix Z instead of Y i.e. 326X substituting for 326W https://www.bourns.com/pdfs/3296.pdf

You could always put in a mu-metal shield over the transformer.

Boards arrived safely in the antipodes. Thanks for all your effort in this GB.

It seems always the norm at that forum, and that thread. Still, it's good for a laugh and the bunfights can be entertaining.

http://sound.zol.com.cn/541/5410271.html

Done.

Happy birthday. 4 dozen birthdays later, and still going strong.

OK, so who's doing this? http://world.taobao.com/item/44186651831.htm?spm=a312a.7700714.0.0.Ktb2wD#detail

Happy birthday.