philodox

Thanks Eaphan... so if that is true, am I correct in assuming that if I used 75ohm cable to make my cables that connect from the Lavry Black DA10 to my amp I would not need a resistor at all? 75 + 0 = 75 Prosinked by default? I'm going to be buying some 75ohm cable already to make my digital cable, so if this is true I could get it all at once. PS. Anyone know of a good BNC connector and a good BNC socket and where to buy it?

Guest wrote: Hi Dan, could you tell me what the output impedance of the DA10's XLR output is (I only need to know the value considering one output pin, for unbalanced operation)? I love my DA10, thanks a bunch! ---------- Regarding the output resistance for the XLR's: There is 75Ohms in series to each XLR active pin. The circuit impedance is less then 1 Ohm, so why 75 Ohms in series? Long cables are capacitive load at "low frequencies" (into the many MHz). Active circuits driving long cables may oscillate at high frequencies. It is common practice to prevent such oscillations (which will be heard as distortions) by use of small series resistors. For XLR's the load is most often very high (such as 100K, 10K or similar) so the series resistors do not cause attenuation. There are a few cases, mostly unbalanced, where the load is as low as 600Ohms, and the series resistance will cause some signal attenuation (1dB at 600Ohms). At 10Kohms load, the loss is only about .12dB. The output voltage of the XLR is very high (24dBu) so a 75Ohms is a good value - plenty of margin for stability (no oscillations) and not much loss. Regarding the output resistance for the headphone: With headphones, the parameters are different. The current for some headphones is very high, the load is not always capacitive... so one needs a strong driver with very low series resistance. The series impedance is 0.69 Ohms so that a 600 Ohm load will cause only 0.07dB loss. Regards Dan Lavry ---------- philodox - Ok, WTF? Does he actually state the output impedance anywhere here?

Cool... any way I can check to see if mine has been updated or was part of the second production run?

lol @ assclown You'll have to come down some time to hear all my new shit... Rob is coming this weekend and Renato next weekend. You better book your time quick!

Thanks for the help guys, I've made my choice... Oh yeah, I've got my green dress on, I'm dancing... wait, whats that in my hands??? PS. What serial number do you guys have? Mine is 51428.

Damn, I'm sure those are going to be great amps Craig... too rich for my blood though.

Well, I'm not having much luck selling my Eastsound... probably because the Doctor is selling one with minor problems for $100 less. Bastard. So anyways, I might be able to do some transport tests. Though I will be getting the Lavry instead of the CEC. [might be getting it today at lunch!!!]

Happy Birthday!

Thanks buddy... I've since been warned. And yeah, my BS alarm rang off too.

There have been some studies that seem to say that 1 meter is the ideal length for a coaxial spdif digital cable... though I'm not sure of the science behind it. Generally I would assume that for analog cables shorter is better as long as there is a constant impedence down the length of the cable.

Yeah, those are the same cheap sockets though as far as I can tell? Any comments from KG or Craig?

Interesting... that could be part of the reason that recables make such a big difference. I measured the impedance on my K340's [recabled with Headphile BlackGold] and they measure at 337 ohms. Stock they are supposed to be 400 ohms, though I didn't measure them before the recable.

Does this technique work with a balanced cable? What do you do differently?

If Billy posts his balls, I'm outta here.

LOL, yeah I thought Crash was going to be a remake of that movie when I saw it.

I use the ETKG Spirit Level Stand, aka the E&T Spider Rack. Looks cool, works great, not sure if it makes a difference... but for $100 who can complain.

Good points... I also have little reason to trust Ori's opinion after this paper weight of an amp he designed for me. Any other options out there though? Just making sure I've covered all my bases before making a $1000 purchase.

Hi all, I posted this on head-fi as well, but figured the folks here might have some input as well since there seems to be quite a few DAC users... Well, I am still strongly considering the Lavry Black as it seems to be a perfect solution for my needs. I will be using a Slimdevices Squeezebox to feed it and initially will drive my HF-1's from the headphone output and my balanced K340's from the XLR outputs. Now, the QC issues that are being discussed on the Lavry forums combined with Ori's recent review that seem to be giving the nodd towards the Zhaolu have me concerned. What I'm wondering, is there any similar DAC's out there that I may want to consider? Things that I need: - True balanced output. No generating inverse phase after the output stage. - Decent built in headphone amp for low impedance headphones. - SPDIF input [coaxial] Things that would be nice: - Discrete amplification [This almost made it to the need category] - No opamps or caps in the signal path [Ditto] - Great built in headphone amp for low impedance headphones. - USB input - Volume control My budget is $1000, though if it cost less that would be great. To give you an idea of the sound I like, I love the Eastsound, wasn't too impressed with the DAC1, and am absolutely crazy about the top end Wadia gear. Thanks in advance, Jason

Yes... yes it is.

I don't know... Crash was pretty good. But there was better.

Well, since we're sharing... want to see some pics of my amp that is still not working? I'm going to be dismantling it soon after trying a couple other tweaks on it and preparing for the bamaslama build. As you can see, my caps are of the same type as aerius', though possibly a different brand.

LOL, fair enough.

They exist, but they are very rare... I think he told me he has 3 of them.

GET OUT OF MY HOUSE!!!

*cough* 'Somebody' just checking in.