jwzhan

As far as I can tell, all of the replacements are fine. For the last one, IIRC that cap is for the 15V rail, so I would go with the 25V cap because it's cheaper.

anyone knows what happened to bdent? Why did they switch from the totally clean and straightforward site to the current messy and ugly site? in addition, the search function doesn't seem to work for me and my account is gone (deleted?) Anyone else experiencing the same problem? EDIT: also... I don't see quantity discount anymore... did bdent get taken over by another company??

Finally got off my lazy ass and assembled another amp board to replaced the faulty one. It's up and running again... at least for now... All I want to say right now is.... FUCK Ground Plane...

I know... it's a pain in the ass to move that thing around, and it takes up so much space... I barely have enough room on the desk to use my mouse... I'd also love to buld a Megatron, but as of right now I can't really use anything that has a tube, because when the AC turns on, the floor vibrates quite violently... Anything other than SS means I will have to listen to the AC along with the music.. (also still have balanced Dynahi to build and have to swap out the wonky amp board on KGSSHV.)

Are you building an on-board version for the second one? That's going to run a lot hotter than the off-board version. Victor reported the heatsink temp. being upwards of 80C (+40~50C of room temp.) It sure can save some room if it can be crammed a 2U case though.

That's going to be a tight fit, real tight fit... Good luck on the build and I mean it, because you are going to need it...

If I'm not mistaken, this is a 2U case front plate. How do you plan on putting the PSU and AMP in the same case? (I assume that's what you are planning to do, since you have the switch mounted on this face plate.)

Then buy from here. UL approved 600V stranded tinned copper. They are cheap and as good as those silver plated and not UL approved "600V" wired. If you really really want silver plated.... here They also sell them.. also UL approved 600V and at a much cheaper price.. like 5 times cheaper then those sellers on ebay.

Very nice indeed, especially those Kapton. Who doesn't like the look of orange colored tape on high end audio equipments!

I believe that's Franz Schubert's signature...

hmmm..... I can already see where this is going...

OMFG that's the most nauseating unboxing video I've ever watched. What is up with that constant zooming in and out like a retard.

Happy Birthday!

thanks for the article. I knew the whole refresh rate thing is just to feed the ever growing demand of "better" products. I was just saying that even compared with the "superior" and faster plasma, 60Hz LCD is more than enough to me.

With these high refresh rate, everything looks very artificial, because there is much less blur caused by TV itself. It took me a very long time to get use to. I have a 60Hz Sony LCD TV and a 600Hz Samsung Plasma,I don't really see much difference between the two in terms of refresh rate. The Samsung might have better resolution and less motion blur when things are moving absurdly fast, but that can be a result of many other things than the refresh rate.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/PARASOUND-P-LD-2000-Stereo-Line-Drive-Preamplifier-Preamp-/190761992841?_trksid=p5197.m1992&_trkparms=aid%3D111000%26algo%3DREC.CURRENT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D14%26meid%3D4018063720753247292%26pid%3D100015%26prg%3D1006%26rk%3D1%26sd%3D190761992841%26 just FYI. There is an early Parasound pre-amp designed by JC for sale on Ebay.

Thank you for all the kind words, but I was too optimistic about everything.... I left the amp on for balance and bia adjustments. About 2 hours in, I heard a light pop... and again... the same problem.. something is burning my 100 ohm resistors.. the green Xs are the ones that got burned.. These are the exact same ones that got burned last Friday, but what's different is that last time they were burned instantanrously right after I turned the amp on, while this time they were burned during operation.. (Before all these, the amp didn't experience any problem even if I left it on for 22 hours straight.) Any idea what's causing this? This is truely testing my mental and physical strength... these ordeals are really bad for the heart... @eggil I modified a terminal block, soldered that onto the PSU and ran the ground from IEC to that directly. There is a star ground; it's on the PSU. I'm only using the case as a conductor and shielding ground. I copied the terminal on XLR thing from your built. I like it a lot as well.

Right channel went sparky last Friday..... I believe something fell on the right 100ohm resistor right after the B- input and fried abunch of parts with it. There is a part of the resistor that got blown away... I now have two pieces of paper covering the vent holes right above the amp boards. (not taking any chances now...it's not good for the heart) This is basically how I'm going to ground everything.. The pot and amp boards are grounded directly on the PSU board now. The switch circuit is grounded via the ground on the case, which is grounded to the PSU. The XLR ground is directly to the jack itself. Hopefully this is the end to all ordeals...

https://clearance.bestbuy.com/detail/2547?utm_source=CJNewsletter&utm_medium=textlink&utm_content=save50dollars&utm_campaign=V4_111112 this one is a little bit more expensive than that dell, but with much better spec. It's only for a limited time though.

The one from bdent is real the one from MCM is not. The datasheet has specificly drawn out the package, but apparently the forger decided that all TO-126 look alike so didn't bother with with it. The hfe is actually within the specified range, but breakdown voltage isn't. Don't have equipments to test other parameters. Could've definately fooled me if they faked the package correctly...

wow, I thought I had some deja vu while reading the above post, then I scrolled up and saw the same useless crap... cool story... now can you stop posting the exact same thing that we are trying to ignore?

you got to be kidding me about all those pricings, especially for the transformer pot. Apparently the silver one costs $1600 each and you need 2 for stereo and 4 for balanced. On top of that, each is 9cm*9cm*9cm. Where the hell are you going to fit four of those. As for your dream Stax amp... it costs *$20,000* Holy crap, what is it made out of ?! You can hire some one to build you a T2s with that kind of money. Also, what's up with all those battery powered snake oil that they are selling. 120Watt Battery Powered Mono Block... ehhh.... how big is your battery? (and no a generator is not a battery) seriously, just stick to KGSS(HV), put a RK50 in there and be done with it.

Had my first twinkies two months ago. damn those things are SWEET. can't imagine myself wanting to buy another ever.. I also heard over NPR that apparently there is a run on the Hostess products (namely twinkies and its chocolate conterpart) nationwide...

It not really buzzing. It not continuous nor consistent at all. It sounds exactly like AC line noise (random crackling-like clicking noise) that usually can be heard with headphone system plugged into a noisy AC line, except it's IEC that's physically making the noise. I can't actually tell if it's from the IEC or the transformer because they are right on top of each other... The reason I don't know how to ground them is that there are too many options! Yesterday was just a functionality test, so I didn't bother with it. I will try different methods. For now, I have the ground wired like this... Amp→PSU→Star Ground (safety ground).. Transformer shielding is also wired to Star Ground... XLR ground will be wired directly onto one of the screws holding the jack in place.. Pot ground will be wired to one of the screws holding down the PSU board. DC offset drifts quite a lot, from -40V at the very beginning to 0V at around 1 hour mark, shouldn't be a problem right?