DefQon

Where can I buy mylar? 50mm across from inside the spacer, 55mm from outer diameter. It's two spacer's with the diaphragm glued around the edge. How can I convert it to electrostatic? This is what the inside looks like (not my pics)

Ok updating this post now with results (about fucking time). Had some SR-3 New's passed to me to have a look at and repair. This pair in pretty poor condition but had perfectly looking drivers (no pushed in dust protector or punctures). The only problem was no sound output, so thanks to Wachara's original suggestion while ago with informing me to re-coating my own channel imbalanced pair of SR-3 and 5's diaphragms using antistatic and professional ESL solution used to re-coat ESL panel based speakers I decided to try repair these as I've done so to the other 7 SR-3/variety based earspeakers. This was the result of opening one driver up and no amount of re-coat could fix it which now distorts heavily and is about 30db's down in volume output to the other now re-coated and working channel. Very smart engineering by Stax. Unlike later ES headphone models that have the diaphragm mechanically tensioned by a precision machine then secured to the stator and spacers, SR-1-5's used disc ring secured diaphragms and a spring that sandwiches the membrane with the perfect d/s gap between the membrane and stators. Perfect dust protector Diaphragm from good driver... Bad driver Comparison. See the crinkle and membrane sticking out a bit. Seem's the previous owner opened it and tried fixing it. Because the diaphragms have a pre-tension groove which must be installed the right side up during manufacturing process, the previous owner flipped it around and with the spring installed, it stretched the mylar out. Installing it back in the driver assembly outputs huge imbalance and distortion. The only solution is to re-diaphragm the whole thing. Spritzer or Wachara, any idea what mylar um thickness these are and recommendations on next suitable replacement? I tried a coated glad wrap and it worked too lol but I'm after a proper fix.

Suspicion it would be something like this. Which probably explains why the diaphragm was bare inside the driver and not seal from dust and contact with hair and such. Any idea on what material I can use to re-membrane the electret driver? Or at least something I can do to fix it?

Ok so the drivers are dipole based, polarity doesn't matter or does?

shit.. Is that at your home or work place?

Anyway I have an AKG K340 that seem's to be have some noticeable imbalance in the upper-registers which I assume is due to the electret driver. I eliminate the issue of cable or the dynamic driver and the PCB board with the step up transformer by swapping the electret element to the opposite channel, the imbalance issue can back on which ever channel the electret driver was soldered too. Anyway I carefully disassembled it and it's very odd. Using plastic stators there seems to be a plastic film on both sides of the membrane that seals the inside diaphragm which also has it's charge, re-coating both sides like I do with my e-stats that have channel imbalance seems to do nothing. I did come across with somebody from rockgrotto whom had an idea of using a watch battery to somehow charge the diaphragm, spritzer any ideas? (Took these shots a while ago but haven't had the time to upload them.)

I know the connections from the Stax plug to the end cable leads that attach to the driver. What I meant is since 2 of the connections are used per channel from normal bias cable I have, what is the -/+R/L connections on the electret drivers? I finally managed to pop the hood off my ECR-400.

My google-fu isn't so good and it seems most of Smeggy's old imageshack uploads are gone, what cable connection goes to where on the electret driver?

Will the ECR's work straight away on normal bias or pro bias after a cable swap?

I have an ECR-400 that I want to do this as well. As soon as I remove the baffle only one side of the white driver assembly lifts up, the bottom side has 3 metal connections secured into the plastic grooves which I assume connects to the cable entry on the other side.

Calling Wink and John McClean this one is for you: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Sennheiser-Orpheus-HE-90-Headphone-Amplifier-and-Headphones-/131320287937?pt=AU_Electronics_Audio_Amplifiers&hash=item1e934c92c1

Would love to see some pics of the SS1, google returns no images besides a few impressions threads on hfi.

I wouldn't exactly call the b22's sound brittle, neutralish bright, yes when paired with something like the HD800's but certainly not brittle sounding. IME besides the Mojo the b22 drives the LCD2's (regardless of revision) and LCD3's superbly. But I guess the build and source comes into place as well.

Well I did msg Kevin about that super expensive high end and complex 845 amp the Stax Mafia brought up few years ago, Kevin says they will complete it in a year or so as spritzer is working on a DHT amp from what I've been told.

Will update this post, got a surprise for some of you guys on a repair the previous owner tried performing on an SR-3 New I'am in the process of re-repairing.

That makes the KGSSHV an even better buy if you have the 009's. The O2 mk1's would show differences, I heard some and the driver control on the BHSE was a little bit better and that subtle difference made a big difference to certain genres with the O2 mk1 I played around with.

The Bijou ain't a bad kit I have to admit. Pretty nice with the HD600's.

Sato has some 1968's as well. Something I currently need.

Thought the RN55/60D's no good for the amp boards due to inductive coating and limiting wall with the rated working voltage?

Cheap http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/The-left-driver-with-the-complete-earcup-for-the-STAX-SR-Omega-headphones-/301323615644?pt=UK_AudioVisualElectronics_HomeAudioHiFi_Headphones&hash=item4628497d9c

Two different companies. Final Sound (a Dutch company that specialised in ESL speakers) is the one you're referring to and Final Audio Design (FAD) is just as the name says, FAD. I've heard some of there IEM's namely the Piano Forte lineup and frankly that they sounded like dog shit, the price of there stuff is dog shit and there $8.8k TOTL flagship complete metal build Muramasa (never really sold) is dogshit. FAD = dogshit for a niche market, i.e people who have too much money and like to buy dogshit.

There is no Hope for Final Audio.

I enjoy believing my cables make a difference to my speakers

Are those Sigma 22 power supplies in your previous picture?

$500 worth of parts.