Pars

Try posts 312, 315 and 319 and around that area. You do realize that a single balanced dynahi board is 1 channel (+ and -)? Hope you got two boards...

Jocko seems to know his shit with digital/RF. Enjoy it, and mod carefully. Shouldn't be a problem to add a power switch, though this might be best left on. Some of Pass' preamps don't have a power switch (Aleph P for instance). And you can contact Jocko on diyhifi.org, though he is,umm, cantankerous

Happy Birthday!

I was thinking RN60s also, but for some reason they weren't coming up in my search on Mouser. I should have directly looked for them. Also, I have a couple of RN65s and they aren't that huge that with creative lead bending they couldn't work. Though I suppose at these voltages, you don't want to give anything an excuse to arc

Last fall, both HBO and Showtime announced unbundled services would be offered in 2015. It looks like HBO is available (HBO Now). Not sure when Showtime will be. http://www.fool.com/investing/general/2014/11/16/hbo-cbs-and-showtime-are-helping-you-cut-the-cord.aspx I guess if your HBO Go is working, run with it

Yeah, probably a little big current wise as well. They do make 8A also IIRC, but if you need an insulated package, then I guess the parts you guys have identified are the ones to go with. As for > .25W resistors, Mouser does stock Dale RN65 in a 178K, .5W, 350V. I couldn't find the schematic for that particular PSU either, but I only looked briefly.

I've never used their diodes, but just avoid their regulators. This is one I might think about using, unless someone sees something that doesn't meet the parameters required here. 512-RHRP30120

I also avoid ST Micro parts like the plaque. Had some negative regulators from them that didn't work right. National and On Semi parts worked just fine. Diodes I like Fairchild personally, depends on the individual rectifier diode I am looking for.

Happy belated Birthday!

Happy Birthday!

That was pretty much my understanding as well; the cable shield is part of the chassis ground, which may or may not be the same as signal ground. I also recall ground loop interupters, such is what is used on my headamp Gilmore refererence board. Basically a low value resistor (4.7 ohms?) and a cap, tieing board ground to chassis. I don't see this done much anymore, unless I haven't been paying attention. GND LOOP CAPACITOR 1 DIGIKEY EF4104 GND LOOP RESISTOR 1 MOUSER 280-CR5-4.7 EDIT: probably shouldn't have made the topic so cryptic

Yeah, those. From the Neutrik description: Wired according to IEC 268-12: Pin 2: signal Pin 1 and 3: connected to ground

Does the Hosa RCA/XLR adapter short the L/R - signals to ground? On a differential input, those need to be grounded when going SE. I know Kevin recommended the Neutrik adapters for the multiamp, which do this.

Mine might even be the prior gen.; refurb from Apple store. No issues in 2 years?

the older one isn't?

Yet Another XLR Question... Building my first balanced amp, some connection questions: What do you do with the shield? Reading the RANE app notes seems not appropriate for parts of this, since I am using 4-pin XLR, and the 3-pin standard has pin 1 as ground. I am reworking the previous 4-conductore rewiring my phones right now, and chopped the previously wired 1/4" plug cable part way to wire in a 4-pin female/4-pin male (the male will be the main phone connector into a 4-pin female on the amp), turning this cable portion into an adapter for when I want to use the phones from an SE amp. The main cable terminates at the phones in a 4-pin mini XLR, in which the shield is not terminated. I assume use the telescoping shield philosophy and terminate the shield to the connector body on both std. 4-pin XLRs at the mid point? For 3-pin XLR balanced amp inputs, just follow the RANE notes? Describe how YOU did things Also, on the balanced Dynahi SS thread, I see one amp using a male 4 pin XLR for the jack? Seems like a bad idea, and that the standard is (or should be), Male for inputs, Female for outputs?

Happy Birthday Doug!

Some people claim they can hear servos. I'm not one of them. Since they normally operate well below 1Hz, and having the servo can protect you from bad things happening, I see no downside to using it, even if the circuit is stable without it.

Happy Birthday Doug!

The LSK389 is an N-channel device while the SJ devices are P-channel. Here is a thread on diyaudio discussing at least the 2SK147 compared to the 2SK389 / 2SK170, etc. http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/solid-state/23954-2sk170bl-2sk369-mc-stage.html

I think most people are using the ON Semi parts. They released an EOL notice last fall that apparently their Korean packaging subcontractor would no longer do TO92s . Mouser still has some in stock, so I'd buy what you think you will need now.

Probable stupid question time: I was playing around with board #1 and ran a test signal into it using a Discman (SE, I- tied to gnd). On the outputs, I was seeing 2 signals (O+ and O-) that were each around 2.5Vpp, 180 degrees out of phase. The input signal was from the line out. With a gain of 6 in SE mode, I would have expected the output signals to be larger? Or do I need a load resistor across the outputs (O+ to O-)? Or is this potential loading of the input impedance? Gain resistors are the stock 5K and 25K. This is the first time for me playing around with balanced signals also.

I played around with RV3 today, and it worked as described. The other 2 pots should be close to center, so I left them alone. These seem to take small adjustments, whereas RV3 takes a considerable amount of adjustment, which is probably why I didn't think it was doing anything previously. At first I messed around using RV3 to try to provide equal base voltage on Q6 and Q9, measured at R21/R25. Offset looked terrible. Then I tried the same thing, only with the collectors of Q6 / Q9 (measured at R1/R2 and R23/R4... whats up with that numbering anyhow ). Offset again looked terrible. I centered RV3, then monitored offset on both the + and - to gnd, and started turning RV3. It got the adjustment quite close; close enough that I didn't bother with the other 2 pots. Without servo, it was drifting ~4 or 5 mV total, most of the time more like 2-3mV. With servos, easily within +/- 1mV. I let it run for about an hour. At 365mV 18mA, the board barely gets warm. I even put a box over it to see if it would heat up more, and it didn't. I still think I could crank the current up higher, at least to the 25mA range. At that point I would probably replace the output emitter resistors with something bigger than the CCF55s I have in now.

^ They show backordered... wonder if they'll get them Temporarily out of stock - back order for despatch 24/03/2015

Congrats to Peter, Jim! Awesome story! Yeah, that Chicago crew is a dirty bunch