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Pars

High Rollers
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Everything posted by Pars

  1. Happy Birthday!
  2. Happy Birthday Ed!
  3. I'll vouch for Michael as someone who you can trust in this GB. I just worked a deal with him for a pair of Multiamp boards, run by the same board house and identical process, and they are very nice PCBs. Michael is a pleasure to deal with, so if you want a set of KGSSHV boards, this would be a good way to get them.
  4. ^ This. Best wishes NE folk...
  5. Happy Birthday!
  6. Yep, feelin sorry for you east coast peeps. That is a fuck ton of snow already!
  7. Pars

    WAT.

    Interesting. I hadn't looked at the product tech page when I posted above. Have you actually heard a difference using these cables versus others?
  8. Pars

    WAT.

    do tell...
  9. I think ours is the AWN432. My wife thinks we paid around $500 or so for it, but that was at least 5 years ago or so. We've been happy with ours, but I haven't read up on them lately.
  10. Uhhh, yeah.... jebus.
  11. [rant] This counts as yesterday, but I replaced the power window motor and lock actuator on the drivers side front door on my wife's Honda. We had had it in the dealership (not in warranty) for power steering noise ($200), and the window and door lock problems ($800). Fixed all of it for $120 in parts. The lock actuator wasn't easy, but got it done. Window motor was pretty easy, had it done in an hour. The power steering problem was covered by a service bulletin, which the service guy didn't mention. A $0.75 o-ring, 10 minute job, done. The car was a Honda certified car. My wife had complained about the window making noise at least 3 times while it was in warranty, starting about a month after we bought it. About 2 months ago, it made a huge noise when my wife rolled the window down, then quit working completely shortly after. They never did anything about it. When I mentioned this to the service guy this time, he said that Honda doesn't consider a part bad until it has actually quit working. He did get a 20% discount approved. Fuck them. All fixed now. I may contact the district zone office anyway to see if they will do anything. [/rant]
  12. Sounds like the inlet valve to me as well Shelly. Damn, that is an expensive valve. If you do go the new washer route, the service guy we use has a website with some good advice regarding brands etc. http://www.allbrandservicenaperville.com/products-washer.html I kind of blow off some of his recommendations regarding controls to a point (he likes manual and hates electronic stuff). I learned this after I paid him $300 (or was it $600?) for the control unit in our old furnace, which he called the "brain box". I took the dead one apart and all it was was a few relays and a couple of basic looking ICs. Brain box, indeed
  13. Sucks Nate (and Haj)! I saw the snowstorm heading your way and felt for ya. Here is our deck/backyard last Monday.
  14. Isn't the input impedance awfully low using the THAT340? I may use it anyhow, though I already have a 4-ch RK27 50K ohm pot. I have to do this cheap if I am going to do it right now. Can embellish later. I could use some 2SJ74s if anyone has a few they could spare
  15. Happy Birthday Jeff!!
  16. Believe I figured it out looking at the original dynalo schematic. NPN -> N-ch, PNP -> P-ch.
  17. RIP Joe! The SR60 was the first "high dollar"* headphone I ever bought. Had a pair of SR125s briefly as well. Don't have either anymore, but will raise a glass... * high dollar means over $50 in the '80s
  18. Another stupid question time When replacing the THAT340 with JFETS, would the NPNs be replaced with N-ch, and PNPs replaced with P-ch, or vice versa? For a NPN, the base needs to go positive by the diode voltage, or +0.7Vdc before it will turn on. Somehow it seems that a P-ch should be used here, but not sure. Like I said, stupid question Might not be an issue, as in going thru parts inventory, I have a bunch of 2SK170s but can't find the 2SJ74s I thought I had. If anyone has around 8 (or 4 matched Idss) they would sell, shoot me a PM. Also, this is applicable to anything using complementary pairs of 2SK170 / 2SJ74, but I ran across this last night on DIYaudio: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/swap-meet/232547-fs-2sk170-2sj74-matched-sets-10.html#post3966396 Has anyone run across this before, and what do you think of it? Not having a curve tracer, no way for me to verify this. Also see attached pdf.
  19. Lookup JFET Idss testing. Quite easy, all you need is a battery (like a 9Vdc) and a DMM to measure current (mA). Like this (which came from the original Gilmore dynamic thread or the dynahi thread on head-fi) http://www.diamondstar.de/transistor_matching_jfet.html And yes nopants, those are the ones I was referring to. Didn't know you could still get those.
  20. The singles aren't hard to match (for Idss), and most of the time are closer matches than what is in the duals (at least from my experience). Linear Systems makes the LSJ74, which seem to only be available thru diyaudio.com in lots of 8 for ~$50. I think the 2SJ74s can still be had? There had also been a run of heat-sink thingies for grouping pairs of these into a single connected unit, but those are probably unobtanium anymore. I would pull the 2sj109 and test it if I were you. Someone familiar with the SRM-3 may pop in and give you more enlightened advice.
  21. Thanks Kevin. This would be for the multiamp, not the ubal to bal converter (I guess these are not the same thing?). Rf is R16 and R19? I assume by Ri you mean input, so the 5K resistors R18 / R33?
  22. I am still considering building one of these to replace my dynalo, but had questions regarding the input section. From what I understand, the THAT340 bipolar input can be replaced with individual JFETs simply by replacing the individual NPN or PNP in the THAT with N-ch or P-ch FETs? C -> D B -> G E -> S Advantages would seem to be higher input impedance and lower offset? Any other changes required to the circuit? Would you want to remove the input series resistors, shown as 5K on the schematic (R18/R33) and jumper these? I still have enough 2SK109/2SK389 or single equivalents to do this. Or is the THAT340 recommended? Anyone listen to either version and have comments?
  23. I think I saw where we got 14.5" out in the sw burbs. I'll shoot a pic of the deck after I get out and run the snowblower again. Shoveling the end of the driveway yesterday was a good time, reserved for my sons I started on it after determining there was no way my small snowblower was going to deal with that. I quickly decided this wasn't old guy work. Very glad I put a new auger belt on Saturday as it would have been worthless without it. Shouldn't be too bad today, other than the dude running the snowplow for the cul-de-sac that I am on the corner of plowed snow across the corner of the sidewalk so not sure how I will get the snowblower over to the cul-de-sac sidewalk. Also not sure I am going to worry about it
  24. what is the warehouse sale?
  25. I presume this is a pic of the finger I think it is... Holy fuck on a stick! Stay safe and warm dudes, and your families. I can sympathize, and my snow blower is cringing in fear of that level of snow! Glad for you guys that it is fluffy and heavy damp wet shit!
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