luvdunhill

I would tie the shell to the chassis and have a jumper for the pin 1 to go either to AGND or Earth. Does the vertical height of the two parts match up well enough?

Are you not worried about the fact that the grounds aren’t switched? I have a recent use-case where it was needed - the two sources were on different electrical circuits. Regardless, I would consider a jumper for XLR pin 1 to either be connected to the chassis or to GND. https://www.ranecommercial.com/kb_article.php?article=2107

Shot on your Nokia 1011?

Nate, what do you use in the tray? I haven’t had much luck with pellets staying lit in mine (nuking them in the microwave helps, but not much overall smoke volume) and wanted to see what you happened to be using.

A. Krauss

Does the manual talk about a pair of gib cams that can be adjusted? It’s not a lock per se but might provide enough friction to help.

I used General Finishes High Performance Satin on a table recently and it came out really well. It was very easy to apply and clean up was easy. I am planning on trying it again on a live edge counter down the road a bit.

I think it’s a Festool box holder.

Plus recipes!

Any impressions of the Cadenza cartridge or the overall setup? I might need some German engineering turntable love down the road.

Stupid USPS is ruining all my fun. Received one package in the last 6 days and had 5 items due last Friday. The app doesn’t even bother suggesting a delivery date, that is when it will actually load.

That must be the Head-Fi approved ceiling attachments.

I have recreated that look on some speakers I am working on using Rust-Oleum spray products. Something with a self-leveling property would work best. I don’t know the specific product used, but I can see if the can is still laying around in the garage.

Yup - also because one can get stylus-cantilever assemblies thorough what must be a black-market underground supply chain.

Thanks! I ended up just going with a panel jack and wiring. I needed it to fit in an existing toggle switch hole. Just sent boards off to get made - posted the board in another thread...

I am looking to use a pair of subwoofers for both HT and Hi-Fi duty. Both systems have a 12V trigger output - a receiver and preamp. I decided to build a small circuit that isolates each trigger (amp has an aux supply to drive the relays) and toggles between an RCA input for the HT and a XLR input for Hi-Fi (depending on which remote trigger was asserted) and defers to a selectable input when both signals are sensed. Both triggers will come in on a single cable through a 3.5mm TRRS jack that will replace an existing toggle switch in each monoblock amp chassis, that currently is used for manual RCA or XLR input selection. One last feature is the board will keep the amp in standby whenever no trigger is asserted. Super custom use-case, but that’s what makes DIY fun!

In my experience a retip can’t be seen as anything near to the original - kinda like a Blue Bell banana pop. If you view it that way then I think it’s worth a try. For the Koetsu the main issue is they need nice heavy mass arm to sound good - whichever arm has the higher effective mass is your best bet. They sound pretty bad when not properly matched.

Yeah same - that means I can’t just use the panel nut to affix the board to the chassis. How odd.

Does anyone know of a PCB Mount four conductor jack (2.5mm or 3.5mm is fine) with a panel bushing? Either TH or SMD is fine. Don't need any switched pins. Having trouble finding one and figured this would be a pretty standard part...

Having someone help you finish is definitely preferred, compared to doing it yourself.

They just responded and are sending a new one. So I guess that’s good!

I had one clamp fail. I am going to see what Armor does to replace it.

So, here is the other side of the wall behind the TV - putting a receiver in a garage is either genius or the worst idea ever. I got a nice cover for it to attempt to keep it somewhat clean, but time will tell. Got the wiring as tidy as I could. with eARC I don’t think I really will need a remote. I am using two wires from an Ethernet run for a 12v trigger to switch over subs to HT duty and could use another pair to run an IR blaster if needed. there is a plate that can be installed on the Arlington box but I am not sure how I would get the wires out. I do imagine this will be a good source of A/C leaks during the summer time but not sure what I can do to make it any better than what I have. ... plus there is room for a garage turntable!

It fits!