luvdunhill

Incra doesn’t have an attachment for either and the ping-pong table wouldn’t work. Perhaps the Goldfinger is the logical choice, assuming no dangerous outgassing.

What if you need to cut some Hot Dogs though?

They do say it’s “the right machine for every budget”

I have used Cinch brand in the past. I like the solderable tabs as well.

Any updates on the Benz? Still working well and sounding good?

I am going to give the REL HT/1003 a shot.

I dunno - the REL aren’t reassuringly expensive and the SVS aren’t the most aesthetically pleasing. So, REL HT or the ones with the confusing slashes in their names?

I am happy with my Sunfire HRS-12 and considering a different strategy for the lake house than the current two passive subs. I am looking for something similar size or smaller (20” cube) to pair with B&W in-walls. An in-wall sub won’t work. What recommendations are there for HT these days?

How quaint.

That’s for playing darts though!

Curved OB baffles like these could be cool - I presume you’ll could cut a stick to look like that over a few days?

Hm; no idea - I use DH Labs cables and they don’t seem to “sound”, so perhaps that means they are “neutral”?

It has an amazing front to back soundstage - I am not sure how exactly, but there you go.

Nope, it “was” Nora Jones. Now it is someone named Snotty.

Sure! https://symbolaudio.com/ Does anyone know if Speaker’s Corner reprints items in their reissue catalog, or are they limited / single run.

MySpace? I am confused whether I am too old for this, or not old enough

Just keeping everyone on their toes

Wasn’t that featured in Goldfinger? I mean who am I to judge what you use it for...

Monk / Coltrane

Yes, but you will need something to drive the new motor. The VPI one runs off wall voltage and the BLDC 3-phase 24V.

The $800 is for the entire motor pod, which includes the massive stainless steel milled enclosure. You can definitely ask VPI about a warrantee replacement. They are very approachable and helpful. Say hi to Tara and the gang for me - they are busy but willing to help. I think it’s reasonable to start here. That project won’t be very cost effective - the 24V Anaheim motor will run around the same price shipped - say $100. The stuffed boards, will run around $200 for the two and then you have casing and the bits for the tach (optional) - maybe $100. It comes in lower than what SOTA is asking, but obviously more than replacing the motor.

The stock motor is a Hurst P/N 3201-001 - for the 300rpm motor. You might have the 600rpm motor. First order would be to check then you can order direct or take your chances with a used one: http://www.hurst-motors.com/papbdirectdrive.html I am replacing it with a motor from Anaheim Automation - likely same motor as SOTA. I am thinking about trying CircuitPython. Using a Cortex M4 - well, will be. https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/analogue-source/307918-3-phase-class-amp-diy-bldc-motor-drive.html https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/analogue-source/298018-diy-4-phase-sinewave-generator-turntable-motor-drive.html https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/analogue-source/301609-digital-tachometer-record-player-lcd-display.html I can supply most of the bits if you decide to go this route.

Ok, fair enough! I have about a hundred irons in the fire on this project - just debugged the display and moving onto casing up the controller - then I need to layout a backplane and then write some software.

Yeah, this is definitely doable. Do you just want to replace the motor? I can do that for you, if you would like / or walk you through this. If you want upgrade, you can ride on my coat-tails, I am doing the same process - motor, controller and tach. The SOTA offerings are provided in a slightly less turnkey format to the DIY community.